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Tuning Problem **update page 6** Bowtech guys little help?

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Tuning Problem **update page 6** Bowtech guys little help?

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Old 08-14-2008, 08:03 AM
  #21  
bigcountry
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

Well, you need to find out if you have a cam lean issue. IMO, its fairly easy to see. I just put a hook on the cieling and take the bow to full draw. Or get someone to help. I use a spott hog laser to see if the cams line up at both full draw and rest. But you can use a pretty long "level" or straight rule. Use the flat surfaces of the cam. Some can eyeball it to see if they are leaning or not.

If it was me, I would put the 125tip back on, get the tear down as least as possible. And then adjust my restto compensate. If your not moving an outrageous amount away from the riser or to the riser, I would then move on to broadhead tuning and if they have simular Point of impact as field points, I would call it good.

When bare shaft tuning with compounds with release, you sometimes have to do the opposite as the easton manual specifies. For example on a bow I was working on, my bare shafts was hitting tail left, tip right and my fletched arrows hit to the left. For a finger shooter, this would indicate a weak reaction. But with this bow, that was impossible. I put a heavier tip on, and things straightened out. But I had to go to a 150gr tip, which I didn't want to do. So I adjusted the rest 1/16" towards the riser (opposite that a fingershooter would do), and fletched arrows impacted same as Bareshaft out to 30 yards, Broadheads had same point of impact, and paper tuned showed a bullet hole. Many tuners snarled at this, and I verified no cam lean with my laser.

I am not a compitition shooter, but a hunter, so I was happy.
 
Old 08-14-2008, 10:31 AM
  #22  
Nontypical Buck
 
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

ORIGINAL: kwilson16

BGfisher - Concur. Spine is suspect. Not too sure that my bow has an idler wheel...

bigcountry - I have some 125's I can try. Stay tuned.
I misread your original post. Sorry. I was thinking Mathews. You have a Bowtech with Binary cams so there is no idler. But if there is any cam lean I know of no way to adjust it out.

It doesn't matter a whole lot though. I still think your main problem is arrow spine being UNDERSPINED. That, and maybe a little added centershot issue. Combination of the two, maybe?
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Old 08-14-2008, 11:23 AM
  #23  
bigcountry
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ORIGINAL: BGfisher
It doesn't matter a whole lot though. I still think your main problem is arrow spine being UNDERSPINED. That, and maybe a little added centershot issue. Combination of the two, maybe?

According to OT2 and other programs, he is far from being underspined with a 27" .4" spined arrow with a 27.5" draw at 70lbs. What program are you using?
 
Old 08-14-2008, 03:35 PM
  #24  
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

No fancy computer program. Just 35 years of practical experience.
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Old 08-14-2008, 04:16 PM
  #25  
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

Archers Advantage has him WAY underspined.I am with BG completely.


I have said it before and I will say it again,I have found OT2 to be less than accurate.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:41 PM
  #26  
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

I installed some of my daughter's 60 grain tips and the 70 lb, 27", 5575 tear was reduced to 1/4-3/8" without resetting laser center shot.

Based on all this, I bought 6 7595 GT Prohunters to try. The glue is drying on the fletchings and we'll see how it goes tomorrow after resetting laser center shot. It is really not that big of an investment in the grander scheme of this sport.

Goldtip must use OT2 because they maintain that the 5575's are adequately spined for my set-up.


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Old 08-14-2008, 09:22 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

Look, I have been shooting Gold Tips for the last four years. Before that a slew of different aluminum, carbon, and carbon/aluminum arrows. I don't profess to know everything, but from everything I've encounterd in Gold Tip their common arrows such as the Expeditions and XT shafts are mislabeled. Let's just say nearly 10#. In other words they should be labeled 4565.

For instance, the 7595 is supposed to be a 340 spine. Do you really know anybody in their right mind that would shoot a 340 spine at 95#?I wouldn't even shoot them at 75#.
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:27 PM
  #28  
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

The 5575's are a .400 spine and the 7595's are a .340 spine according to AA and OT2.


I wish you were able to give me exact specs on arrow weight and speed to calibrate AA to your specs.OT2 can't be properly calibrated imo(actuall speed).

OT2 uses cam style to figure spine match,AA uses actuall performance(speed).AA says you need a .340 spine and OT2 says you need a .422.One of them is off.
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:31 PM
  #29  
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

ORIGINAL: BGfisher

Look, I have been shooting Gold Tips for the last four years. Before that a slew of different aluminum, carbon, and carbon/aluminum arrows. I don't profess to know everything, but from everything I've encounterd in Gold Tip their common arrows such as the Expeditions and XT shafts are mislabeled. Let's just say nearly 10#. In other words they should be labeled 4565.

For instance, the 7595 is supposed to be a 340 spine. Do you really know anybody in their right mind that would shoot a 340 spine at 95#?I wouldn't even shoot them at 75#.

Exactly my feelings and they don't even take draw length into account.Everytime I run their shafts through AA,I find exactly what you have found in the REAL WORLD.


I don't shoot Gold Tips so I can't fall back on personall experience,other than what I have seen on AA and I have been using it for years,I even beta tested the previous version.
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Old 08-14-2008, 10:15 PM
  #30  
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Default RE: Tuning Problem

If the 7595's don't fix the tear,I will make the trek to the more distant bowstore that has a chrono.

Thanks for all the help!!
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