Well, you need to find out if you have a cam lean issue. IMO, its fairly easy to see. I just put a hook on the cieling and take the bow to full draw. Or get someone to help. I use a spott hog laser to see if the cams line up at both full draw and rest. But you can use a pretty long "level" or straight rule. Use the flat surfaces of the cam. Some can eyeball it to see if they are leaning or not.

If it was me, I would put the 125tip back on, get the tear down as least as possible. And then adjust my restto compensate. If your not moving an outrageous amount away from the riser or to the riser, I would then move on to broadhead tuning and if they have simular Point of impact as field points, I would call it good.

When bare shaft tuning with compounds with release, you sometimes have to do the opposite as the easton manual specifies. For example on a bow I was working on, my bare shafts was hitting tail left, tip right and my fletched arrows hit to the left. For a finger shooter, this would indicate a weak reaction. But with this bow, that was impossible. I put a heavier tip on, and things straightened out. But I had to go to a 150gr tip, which I didn't want to do. So I adjusted the rest 1/16" towards the riser (opposite that a fingershooter would do), and fletched arrows impacted same as Bareshaft out to 30 yards, Broadheads had same point of impact, and paper tuned showed a bullet hole. Many tuners snarled at this, and I verified no cam lean with my laser.

I am not a compitition shooter, but a hunter, so I was happy.