No,those 2 arrows are probably shooting within 10 fps of each other so the difference will be very minimal.


If you can,get an exact arrow weight as well.Actually weighed on a grain scale.

There is a strong possibilty with your bow that the grip style has more to do with the tear than anything.I have a bow that does very much the same thing when I try not to torque it but when I just grab it and fling the arrow,it does good.

I need to go back to my hijack for a second,you can calibrate your bows performane on OT2with the performance factor slide and it will change the speed and spine on the spine form.

When sliding this performance marker,OT2 says that the 5575 is too weak as well if you match speed to what AA says.So it can be calibrated,just need to know how to do it.Wonder why they couldn't tell me this when I talked to them.

I'll have the weight and speed asap. Maybe I can find a chrono tomorrow.

Even in the helpfile they tell you to just change the IBO speed. Perhaps that was before they changed it to cams instead of speed.

But yeah, changing the performance slide does work for adjusting for spine. Great catch!

Probably should start a new thread but hopefully I am done with this hijack

You can slide the performance marker on the setup page and it will not change speed on the setup page untill you set it and going to the spine form page shows the changed speed,then it will also show on the set up page.

Not very user friendly imo but why in the world couldn't they have told me that when I was trying to figure out how to match the program to my bow.[:@]

I spent several days shooting walkback and then groups. The end result was that I could acheive good walk back but my groups were spread left-right about 2.5 times as much as vertical.

On TFOX's advice, I shot through paper tonight - adjusting per the Easton Tuning Guide. I started with a slight low and 0.5" right tear (vane to right of point). The vertical tear dissappeared easily and I was able to alleviate the right tear by moving the Trophy Taker to the end of it its adjustment (away from riser). The end result is a nice bullet hole (see pic) but my rest is all the way left.

The arrow started 3/4" from the riser and I ended with the arrow 15/16" from the riser.

It sure seems odd that I have to use every bit of adjustment to achieve center shot.

I have the taken bow to a good pro shop twice. I am desperate to figure out what gives with this bow.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how I can solve this minor, but persistent issue?

As I said in the pm,I doubt that your true center is out that far.I was just wanting you to figure out just how far it would have to go to get a bullet hole.


Like I said in the pm,move the rest back in a little (around 13/16" )and try some group tuning but I do feel there is an issue with your bow,pobably minor.If you get that tear to around a 1/4" to 3/8"(with true centershot),I would forget about it and shoot.

This is a reason I like a rest that gives guidance to an arrow,it will help get the arrow going straight longer than a fallaway that is dropping too early.


Sometimes these little things can be a pain to find.

A friend of mine was having an issue with a high tear and took him a LONG time but he figured it out it was his serving.

I agree. In the meantime, I will take your advice.

I am on my second set of strings.
I have tried WB, QAD and Trophy Taker. I have a hostage on-hand. Should I try it?

Success = Finding this minor issue and alleviating it.

It couldn't hurt but that isn't exactly the style rest I am talking about but it might help.