MGH_PA

I'm in the process of getting new strings for my CR334, and considering I'm trying to learn as much as possible about tuning (and since my CR was never fully tuned), I was wondering how much of the process/procedure I have down (in order hopefully).

I was reading up on tiller adjustments and figured that would be the first place to start when beginning the tuning (since if this isn't set properly, and you don't have a perfect consistant non-torquing grip, you may have serious tuning issues down the road, correct?). Now, to adjust tiller, do you just draw back anywhere on the string or do you need to set a rough nock set (slightly above level of the rest?). So I assume, you set your tiller, then move on to setting up the rest and getting centershot in the rough ballpark (how is this accomplished by eyeballing? I saw mobow mentioned putting the bottom cam on your foot and looking straight down from the top of the bow making sure the arrow splits the limb bolts in two, is this a could ballpark method?).

Ok, so now you have tiller set, and your centershot is in the ballpark. Now, I assume you set your nock point (if you didn't have to for the tiller adjustment, so clarify whether or not I'm mistaken here). Set your nock height, serve in your nock points, tie in a string loop (if using one), and head to the "range."

Once at the range, I assume if you're starting out with new arrows, you can bareshaft tune to make sure no spine issues occur, correct? Are any adjusments made with bareshaft tuning or is it just a "check" method? Assuming bareshaft checks out, how many suggest paper tuning before walk-back? Can you skip paper tuning and do the walk-back method? Walkback tuning essentially allows for two main adjustments, correct?:

Centershot
Nock Point

Walk-back tuning seems to have a variation of methods/techniques (all with a final goal of achieving correct centershot and nock point mentioned above), correct? I see mention of making a vertical (perfectly level) tape marking on the target as well as a perfectly level horizontal tape marking. Starting close, fire a group, make notes, walk back, fire some more, take notes, walk back, etc. For centershot, you'r looking for your groups to hit all along or near the vertical line, correct? Obviously the groups will vary vertically as you walk back, but they should still group on the vertical line? Now for nock point, I assume you do the same walkback method, but are looking to achieve arrow placement all along the same horizontal plane, correct? Is it better to walk-back adjusting center shot first, then nock travel, or both at once, or some other method?

I can assume once you are grouping well assuming now spine issues, occur, you are ready to begin sighting in? What about creep tuning and checking for cam lean? Are both of these tuning issues check when at full draw?

Again, just trying to get a handle on some of the basic processes one goes through when setting up. I've read through many of the stickies above (great reads) as well as some articles online, and I'm hoping Rob will be able to give me a few pointers when I get my strings setup, but I'm really wanting to try this myself, and hopefully start becoming much more proficient. Thanks guys.

MGH_PA

Also, as a side note, do many of you tie your nocksets in to allow some adjustability in case when tuning you need to move this up or down? It would seem to be a bit of a pain to tie in a nockset over and over due to tuning adjustments.

brucelanthier

The 3 stickies at the top of the page would be a good place to answer some of your questions. What they don't answer you could ask again here.

MGH_PA

Read them...that's where I got much of my information. What isn't clear to me is what comes first and what happens in what order (well the walk-back tuning is pretty well ordered). For instance, like I asked above, when adjusting the tiller, is the nock point already set? I would believe it would need to be set to get a an idea of how much "pull" there will be on the top limp in relation to the bottom. So, it's safe to assume you should install the rest, set the nock point, and then set the tiller...BUT what if you go out to walk-back tune it, and you find you need to adjust the nock point...would this change your tiller at all because you are now adjusting the pull plane in relation to the push plane? It's things like this (in addition to the others I specifically addressed in my first post) that I'm not clear on.

Arthur P

There are few graven in stone, irrefutable axioms in archery, but one of them is TUNE THE BOW THE WAY YOU INTEND TO SHOOT IT!

As for tiller tuning... You are not going to shoot the bow by pulling back just anywhere on the string, are you? Set a nock point so the arrow is 90 degrees to the string and passes through the center of the rest mounting screw hole - or however the bow manufacturer recommends. Draw, make the adjustments described in the tiller tuning thread. The nock point will most likely move. Reset it and then repeat.

Keep in mind that tiller affects your nock point location and nock point location affects your dynamic tiller. They are interrelated. You cannot change one without also changing the other. There simply comes a point where the dynamic tiller is close enough thatthe small nock point adjustments neededto tune arrow flight are insignificant.

Parkerbuckhunter

If you can get your hands on a copy of eastons bowtuning guide I think it would go a long way in explaining alot of things you are asking about. It is almost like the Bible for archery. It used to be posted on their website but i think there are some post in this forum as to where you can go to find it.