Roskoe

Last night I was looking at my new Reflex Growler and measured the distance from the limb joint (where the limb and riser meet) to the string, both upper and lower. The lower limb measures just a little closer to the string - maybe the thickness of a dime. Both limbs are maxed out in terms of the riser bolts. Is this enough to be concerned? The bow shoots pretty well and paper tunes fine - even though the arrow is a little high on the Berger hole and the nocking point is right on perpendicular with the string/arrow shaft. I'm assuming the cure is to back out the riser bolt on the lower limb until the measurements are the same . . . .

nodog

Not always. Sounds like your like many of uswho tinker. Back it out and see what happens. I'll bet that dime the impact point of the arrow drops.Should be lifting the nock in doing so.

Roskoe

That's what I'm thinking too. This bow has always acted like the nock is climbing a little in the power stroke. I'm going to tinker a little - see what happens - can always go back to where I am now.

KodiakArcher

Tiller gets a little weird (to me) with cam 1/2 and single cam bows. I've always bottomed out the limbs and then backed them off equally to the poundage I want. If I set the nock point even with the rest and have a high or low tear through paper I'll tweak the tiller a bit to correct it but I've only had to do that on one bow. I'm betting that dime that you won't see any measureable difference by setting them equal. I think it was Arthur P who discribed a method of setting tiller for a balanced feeling draw so that as you draw the bow one limb doesn't came back in toward you before another.

Roskoe

Hey, Rob - I just got back from the range and did not notice any significant difference. Both limb bolts were maxed out before - and I had to loosen to bottom one about 1/3 of a turn to get to measurements equal. Did not change the point of impact of the bow, group size,nor did it affect the paper tune. I didn't have the broadhead target with me, but would suspect that they are still shooting the same spot as field points as well.

burniegoeasily

its your tiller.

nodog

A 1/3 wont chamge much. Like the above poster you can use this method to help make holding the bow at full draw more comfortable. It's balancing the pull from each limb so that one isn't pulling the other. I think bows these days are less effected by these things because they are more consistant. Still worth fooling around with.

gibblet

i agree w/ nodog. if you feel like the bow wants to pull you down off your aiming pt at full draw, take a little off the bottom limb, or put a little on the top. if you feel like it wants to pull you up off your aiming pt- take a little off the top or put a little on the bottom until the bow holds just right - stays right on the dot. then see if you need to adjust your nock height, then your good to go.