Hey guys,

I have my Mathews Drenalin paper tuned pretty well. However, I still have a slight ( .5 in? ) left tear. Now I read in the tuning guide I was using that many mechanical release shooters, which I am, will always have some sort of left tear.

Any truth to that?

I use a mechanical Release and shoot bullet holes so it sounds like there is a small issue. I always start with the grip and work back from there post a pic of your form and we can check your form.

Thanks ... perhaps I will do that. I've been slowly but surely making headway with this bow. Only my second bow but I've had some trouble getting this one to shoot well. The other bow I had was a Fred Bear Element and that thing tuned right up and shot everything from field points to mechanicals to 3 blade Thunderheads the same.

When I started tuning the Drenalin my field points and broad heads were about 6 inches apart left to right and 2 inches high/low. I've got the bow shooting field points and broadheads together now but still have this slight left tear.

Thanks again.

alot of pro shops i talk with say that for up and down tuning a paper tune is good as for left and rights...you have to shoot the bow at a target to tune cant trust the paper for left tears and right tears(small tears).....though i secound guess them and they have stuck with their guns....let me know what ya figure out

This,imo,is the best way to tune a bow.
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=2020182


Paper can lie to you if you aren't sure what is going on.If you torque the bow or have a spine issue,you don't want a bullet hole because you will detune the bow to fit the other issue and that can make the bow harder to shoot.

TFox,

After reading that thread, you are saying my best possible tune would come from:

1. Paper tune bare shafted arrows
2. Paper tune fletched arrow checking for clearance
3. Walk back test looking for arrows to fall straight up and down from 20 yards to 40/50 yards
4. Group test at furthest comfortable distance looking for best grouping

I've done 1 and 2.

As someone mentioned in the thread you linked in this post, couldn't I be even more accurate with the walk back if I shot groups at 20 and groups say at 35 and 50 perhaps? Or even just a group at 20 and a group at 40 until the center of both groups fall dead on vertically of one another? At which point I'd be very close left to right?

The group testing is pretty self explanatory, however, I shoota Mathews Dropaway and as far as I can tell ( might be overlooking something ) I don't have a micro adjustment for up and down. I do have one left to right, that being said, I'd have to adjust the nocking point to vertically group tune correct?

Thanks

You can adjust it up and down but not micro.You shouldn't have to move the nocking point,we are talking very small amounts here.Mark the rest where it is at and then adjust it up and down slightly to check groups.


I believe you are trying to explain the french tune method which does work but I don't use it so I am not the one to be giving advice on it.


I generally like to do this a couple times because we all have those good days and bad days.

TFox,

Your method would be to shoot a single arrow at intervals of 10 yards starting at 20 yards and extending out to 50 or so yards. Your final results should yield arrows following in a vertical line top to bottom correct?

If the arrows fall to the left from top to bottom how should the rest be moved?

If the arrows fall to the right ... ??

Thanks

Arrows to the right.Rest to the left.

If you plan to hunt , broadhead tuning would be my choice , on the way to that method , walkback tuning would be a good choice , forget the paper ,