Break-in Adjustments???
02-22-2007, 08:15 AM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 2,333
Break-in Adjustments???
Could any of you experienced folks out there answer a question for me? I've had my new bow (yes, my first bow) for about two weeks now, and I'm shooting it every day. It was expertly tuned and still shoots perfect (provided my formis correct). My question is will there be any adjustments required as the bow gets well broken in, i.e. string stretch or something along those lines?
02-22-2007, 08:40 AM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
RE: Break-in Adjustments???
There may be some adjustments needed later on. A lot depends on the quality of the rigging (string and cable). Here are some suggestions:
Take a pencil and mark the side of the cams where they pass through the limbs. Id the string or cables creep it will give you a visual guide about draw length. Measure the brace height and A2A of the bow. Actually measure the draw length at full draw. Weigh the peak weight.
Record all this data and write it down for future reference. Then you'll know what you started with. Don't get too concerned with what the numbers are. All you are doing is recording what the bow is now as it is set up. If things begin changing you'll be able to know, instead of guessing, what things were when everything was good for you.
At some future date, if the string creeps, the draw length will get longer and the weight will go up. The cam will go out of it's present rotation (use those marks on the cam for a guide). All you'll need to do is put the bow in a press and twist the rigging so all the numbers match up to what it is now.
NOW, depending on what bow you have, one of the best things you can do for it is get a good set of string/cable for it. There is a guy on this site called Gibblet that makes top-notch rigging pretty reasonably priced. When you need to replace the rigging give him a buzz. The reason for aftermarket rigging is that it does not creep nearly as much as factory offerings.
In the meantime, enjoy shooting what you have.
Take a pencil and mark the side of the cams where they pass through the limbs. Id the string or cables creep it will give you a visual guide about draw length. Measure the brace height and A2A of the bow. Actually measure the draw length at full draw. Weigh the peak weight.
Record all this data and write it down for future reference. Then you'll know what you started with. Don't get too concerned with what the numbers are. All you are doing is recording what the bow is now as it is set up. If things begin changing you'll be able to know, instead of guessing, what things were when everything was good for you.
At some future date, if the string creeps, the draw length will get longer and the weight will go up. The cam will go out of it's present rotation (use those marks on the cam for a guide). All you'll need to do is put the bow in a press and twist the rigging so all the numbers match up to what it is now.
NOW, depending on what bow you have, one of the best things you can do for it is get a good set of string/cable for it. There is a guy on this site called Gibblet that makes top-notch rigging pretty reasonably priced. When you need to replace the rigging give him a buzz. The reason for aftermarket rigging is that it does not creep nearly as much as factory offerings.
In the meantime, enjoy shooting what you have.
02-22-2007, 08:52 AM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: WEST PALM FLORIDA
Posts: 2,890
RE: Break-in Adjustments???
Mathews strings and cabels are natorious for stretch and twist .
I assume you are shooting a peep site with a rubber tube attached to it , that is how most mathews are setup because of the string/cabel quality . If you like shooting that way , my sugestion would be to mesure your axil to axil length , and mark your cams with a felt tip perminent marker . when they begin to move , get yourself a , gibblet string and cabel , or vaportrail . If you want trouble free shooting , and want to ditch the rubberband pointing at your eye , and go with a truepeep or metapeep , do it now
I assume you are shooting a peep site with a rubber tube attached to it , that is how most mathews are setup because of the string/cabel quality . If you like shooting that way , my sugestion would be to mesure your axil to axil length , and mark your cams with a felt tip perminent marker . when they begin to move , get yourself a , gibblet string and cabel , or vaportrail . If you want trouble free shooting , and want to ditch the rubberband pointing at your eye , and go with a truepeep or metapeep , do it now
