Draw length variation ???
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 194
Draw length variation ???
I have been shooting my Martin Lynx for abought 16 years or so with a 29 inch draw length .
I,m looking at finaly getting a new bow .
I had a bow shop recheck my draw length and they say 29 inches is right.
I checked on the web and one sight says to hold your arms out side to side parallel to the groung but slightly relaxed and measure them left middle finger tip to right middle finger tip and divied by 2 .
I tried this and I come up with 28 inches .
Whats right ???
I,ll be shooting with a release .
I also plan on having a horse shoe loop installed on the string .
Will this change anything ?
Appriciate any help ...
I,m looking at finaly getting a new bow .
I had a bow shop recheck my draw length and they say 29 inches is right.
I checked on the web and one sight says to hold your arms out side to side parallel to the groung but slightly relaxed and measure them left middle finger tip to right middle finger tip and divied by 2 .
I tried this and I come up with 28 inches .
Whats right ???
I,ll be shooting with a release .
I also plan on having a horse shoe loop installed on the string .
Will this change anything ?
Appriciate any help ...
#2
RE: Draw length variation ???
You will get many that swear by that method.
I have found it to beless than accurate for all.There are many pros that shoot longer than the wingspan method would suggest,I shoot longer than the wingspan and I have had a level 4 coach help me with draw length,among other things.
As far as a loop,you will also get some that say the loop changes anchor,not draw length,I disagree with this and I think changing your anchor to accomidate a loop is a mistake(other thanSLIGHTmodifications).I believe you need to make the equipment fit you,not try and make you fit the equipment.
Heck,my draw length changes from release to release.The bow I currently shoot is about a 1/8"-1/4" long on draw with my wrist release but with my handheld and back tension,it is dead on.
I would suggest totry a bow set at 28 1/2" with a loop and see how you like it.My gut feeling is you will like it.
Of course,without seeing you in person,I can't say for sure,just pure speculation from the info you gave.
I have found it to beless than accurate for all.There are many pros that shoot longer than the wingspan method would suggest,I shoot longer than the wingspan and I have had a level 4 coach help me with draw length,among other things.
As far as a loop,you will also get some that say the loop changes anchor,not draw length,I disagree with this and I think changing your anchor to accomidate a loop is a mistake(other thanSLIGHTmodifications).I believe you need to make the equipment fit you,not try and make you fit the equipment.
Heck,my draw length changes from release to release.The bow I currently shoot is about a 1/8"-1/4" long on draw with my wrist release but with my handheld and back tension,it is dead on.
I would suggest totry a bow set at 28 1/2" with a loop and see how you like it.My gut feeling is you will like it.
Of course,without seeing you in person,I can't say for sure,just pure speculation from the info you gave.
#3
RE: Draw length variation ???
A suggestion I'd make is to not buy a bow that is drawlength specific. If you have one that has a rotating module then you can always adjust it to your "feel".
Adding a loop or using different releases does not change the drawlength of the bow. It only changes your body parts as you anchor. You take a bow that is set up right for you and then add a loop. It makes you stretch out a little more, which usually isn't good. You can compensate for this a little by shortening the drawlength of the bow about 1/2"---if you have a bow that is adjustable.
You can also help compensate by adjusting the strap on the release, making it shorter. Things can be done. But when you make some of these changes you have to give your body time to adjust to the new "feel". It's not a matter of a few shots or even a hundred. Give it several hundred shots. If you shoot 30 arrows a day then give it three weeks.
FYI, I think you meant wingspan divided by 2.5 In any case, although this isn't always right on it's a lot better than taking some guess. And as I said, a bow that is adjustable always helps, too.
Adding a loop or using different releases does not change the drawlength of the bow. It only changes your body parts as you anchor. You take a bow that is set up right for you and then add a loop. It makes you stretch out a little more, which usually isn't good. You can compensate for this a little by shortening the drawlength of the bow about 1/2"---if you have a bow that is adjustable.
You can also help compensate by adjusting the strap on the release, making it shorter. Things can be done. But when you make some of these changes you have to give your body time to adjust to the new "feel". It's not a matter of a few shots or even a hundred. Give it several hundred shots. If you shoot 30 arrows a day then give it three weeks.
FYI, I think you meant wingspan divided by 2.5 In any case, although this isn't always right on it's a lot better than taking some guess. And as I said, a bow that is adjustable always helps, too.
#5
RE: Draw length variation ???
That's one of the reasons I went with Bowtech as opposed to Mathews. I am a 29inch draw, but, for whatever reason on my Guardian a 28.5 inch module is the same as a 29inch on my Allegiance (you can change the draw length in 5 minutes). Some bows, or maybe it is the strings, are just a little different. My Switchback at 29 was actually a little short.
There is a lot of variation IMO.
There is a lot of variation IMO.
#6
RE: Draw length variation ???
Another way we use to do at the shop(since we were primarily a mathews dealer and couldn't change the draw) was to take the average of three different methods. One was the wingspan(which you've convered), second was the yardstick(take a yard stick to the middle of your chestbone and place hands together towards the end, where your middle fingers touch is your draw length), and third was by the recurve with a realease on using a measured arrow. This would normally bring it to within a half to one inch in any direction, then you fit the bow to the average.
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7,876
RE: Draw length variation ???
ORIGINAL: gibblet
tfox, how does a loop change drawlength? i know what you're saying in one way, but it doesn't change where the string comes to, so i don't think it can.
tfox, how does a loop change drawlength? i know what you're saying in one way, but it doesn't change where the string comes to, so i don't think it can.
#9
RE: Draw length variation ???
Put a 2" loop on and then tell me it doesn't affect draw length.Yes anchor will change but so doeswhere youset the draw length of the bow.Just using an extreme to make a point.
Everything you do or use will affect the set draw length of the bow.Anchor can/will be affected also.Especially when changing release styles.
I think wewill all agree that we pull longer with our fingers than with a release,same principle,just smaller amounts.
A proper length loop will change draw VERY LITTLE,usually about a 1/4" and most can't tell the difference in a 1/4" too long or short but that doesn't change the fact that it has changed.
Let me add,most loops are too long and the 1/2" in draw length change has become a standard.
Everything you do or use will affect the set draw length of the bow.Anchor can/will be affected also.Especially when changing release styles.
I think wewill all agree that we pull longer with our fingers than with a release,same principle,just smaller amounts.
A proper length loop will change draw VERY LITTLE,usually about a 1/4" and most can't tell the difference in a 1/4" too long or short but that doesn't change the fact that it has changed.
Let me add,most loops are too long and the 1/2" in draw length change has become a standard.
#10
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Altadena CA
Posts: 494
RE: Draw length variation ???
CAN YOU DETERMINE YOUR DRAW LENGTH BY MEASURING YOUR WINGSPAN?[/b]
This subject appears quite often on archery websites. It starts with a new archer asking how to determine his draw length. Then someone responds by providing a “magic formula” based on one’s wing span: “Stand next to wall, stretch out your arms, and have someone measure the distance between your finger tips. Divide by X, subtract Y, then order your bow.”
I'd never order a bow based on a generic physiological formula. That’ll only get you into the ballpark. As an example, a buddy's wingspan is 2" longer than mine, but he shoots best with a DL 2" shorter than me. Both of us have good form. Arm length and shoulder width might have something to do with it.
Something else I hardly ever see in these "How do I measure my DL?" threads is a discussion of the type of release you use. Some releases (like the Winn glove) hold the string much closer to your hand, while others have a long body with the trigger way behind the jaws, which gives you less power stroke.
Grip method (low wrist, high wrist, etc.), stance, use (and length) of D-loop, comfortable & repeatable anchor point, etc., also enter into the equation.
I'd recommend getting an expert coach to observe you shoot. Then experiment extensively to see what works best for you. If your primary emphasis is hunting, better to use a DL a little short than a little too long. This will help you shoot more consistently from field positions and will reduce the chance of the string slapping your forearm.
Final tip: Buy a bow with some adjustment range rather than one that’s draw length specific. And never blindly trust the manufacturer’s label! The DL of most bows I’ve purchased have been longer than the label indicated. For example, both of my supposedly 31” Mathews bows were almost 32”. This really affected my form, accuracy, and consistency until someone mentioned that I was stretched out and leaning back at full draw.
This subject appears quite often on archery websites. It starts with a new archer asking how to determine his draw length. Then someone responds by providing a “magic formula” based on one’s wing span: “Stand next to wall, stretch out your arms, and have someone measure the distance between your finger tips. Divide by X, subtract Y, then order your bow.”
I'd never order a bow based on a generic physiological formula. That’ll only get you into the ballpark. As an example, a buddy's wingspan is 2" longer than mine, but he shoots best with a DL 2" shorter than me. Both of us have good form. Arm length and shoulder width might have something to do with it.
Something else I hardly ever see in these "How do I measure my DL?" threads is a discussion of the type of release you use. Some releases (like the Winn glove) hold the string much closer to your hand, while others have a long body with the trigger way behind the jaws, which gives you less power stroke.
Grip method (low wrist, high wrist, etc.), stance, use (and length) of D-loop, comfortable & repeatable anchor point, etc., also enter into the equation.
I'd recommend getting an expert coach to observe you shoot. Then experiment extensively to see what works best for you. If your primary emphasis is hunting, better to use a DL a little short than a little too long. This will help you shoot more consistently from field positions and will reduce the chance of the string slapping your forearm.
Final tip: Buy a bow with some adjustment range rather than one that’s draw length specific. And never blindly trust the manufacturer’s label! The DL of most bows I’ve purchased have been longer than the label indicated. For example, both of my supposedly 31” Mathews bows were almost 32”. This really affected my form, accuracy, and consistency until someone mentioned that I was stretched out and leaning back at full draw.
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