What all do they do when you have your bow tuned? Also what is paper tuning? Thanks for the help.
Brandon

If it's a reputable bow shop then THEY can't tune a bow for you. What They can do is set the rest for centershot, nocking point for approximate height. Tweak the draw length and weight for YOU.

Then YOU shoot the bow and tune accordingly for the best arrow flight. This may be paper tuning or bare shaft, walk-back tuning or whatever method is used.

The reason THEY can't tune the bow for you is that each shooter may grip or otherwise shoot the bow differently and it must be tuned for that particular individual. They may help with the tuning process in that they can be there and observe what is happening and make the necessary adjustments. More importantly they can teach you how to do it in the future so you don't have to rely on them.

check out www.eastonarchery.com they have a tuning guide in the downloads section, it explains everything, and tells you how to tune yourself... its what i use as a reference guide.

having the bow tuned is archery terminoligy for having the arrow rest in a strait line with the string square with the bow and in line with the nock travel of the string paper tuning plays a part to help indicate whether the rest is properly aligned by shooting from a distance of 6 feet through preferably masking paper the type of hole the arrow leaves through paper will indicate whether the rest is properly aligned or not.

once this is acomplished comes another Phaze of the tuning process
sighting in the bow often referred to as walk back tuning this is basically how it is done you start at20 yards and set your top pin for that distance then walk back to 30 yards then set your next pin down to that distancethen to 40 yards and set the next pin for that distance ect
I hope that was simple enough

the bow shop Can tune your bow but they cant tune you so you will have to adapt to the bow not the bow to you.

Thanks guys, that helps alot. I didn't have it paper tuned but I did take it to the shop the other day and the guy in there set the bow up on his stand/vice and got it squared up straight and was measuring the rest and the string. Sounds like what you guys are explaining. He did everything there but have me shoot it and that was just because I didn't have any of my arrows w/ me. When I got it home I went and practiced for a bit and it shot much better than before. It probably only took me 12-15 shots to set in my 15 and 25 yard sights and now I am shooting 4 inch groups on each distance in a mild wind.
Brandon

in my archery language walk back tuning and sighting in are very different things. sighting in is just that, walk back tuning is a process of setting up your arrow rest in the correct left/right orientation so that you arrows shoot on the same vertical plane from all distances w/ all pins.

Me too. Walk back tuning is to get center shot. Sighting in is simply a process of chasing the point of impact with the sight until they are the same.

A good bow tech can eyeball a bow set-up so that it is shooting decently as long as he is working on a bow that he is familiar with. For example, I would have no problem with taking a Bowtech, Hoyt or many other linesthat Len set up, sighting it in and hunting with no further tuning. However, I wouldn't trust a bow from most archeryshops until I had done a couple of days of tuning.

I'm only using Len as an example because I know him and have seen his work. There are plenty of others who can do as well. Unfortunately, they are out numbered by the ones that can't.

Len, when are you going to start your archery tech shool?

So when you are walk back tuning, what are you adjusting to make changes in the handling ( tuning ) of the bow? And if you say - the rest - for instance, after that first adjustment to a piece of your equipment, will you not screw up the first adjustment with each successive adjustment to that or another piece of your equipment.

I have never done this, but it sounds like the equipment would be in a state of constant change. How would you ever get it " RIGHT "? And how would you know?

Mike,

Although a search about walk-back tuning would be better I'll do a quickie for you.

To start you suspend a piece of string from your target, top to bottom. I have to use rope as my old eyes can't see string anymore. Then you sight in your bow at 20 yards adjusting your sight till you are hitting the string.

Then walk back to 30 yards and shoot again, using the same pin.Your arrows will hit lower but centershot is what you're working on. If your arrows are hitting to one side then you adjust your rest slightly in the direction you want your arrows to go. Then do the same thing at 40 yards, assuming you have the skills for it.

Then you go back to 20 yards and start over, adjusting your sight to hit the string. Then go to 30 yards, etc. It's a lot of trial and error and usually minute adjustments to the rest, but when done your rest should be set up on the dynamic center of the bow (the path that the string follows during the shot).

Then you sight your pins in for their respective yardages. Now that you've done this it's time to tune for broadheads, but this is another matter, and more for fine tuning.

As mentioned above Easton's Tuning Guide covers most of this.

Hope this helps some.

Yes sir, thank you sir.

And I will check that guide out.

God bless.