Arrow Straightness
#1
Arrow Straightness
I understand that straighter is better (and a bigger hole in the wallet), but I still can't decide what straightness to look for. I was thinking of going with something in the +/- .003 straightness just because it's kind of mid-range. However, I read that many archers (aside from true pros) don't even notice a difference between +/- .006 and .001. So that got my wallet jumping for joy thinking maybe I'd be just fine with lesser expensive arrows. What's everybody else's opinon of straightness?!?
#2
RE: Arrow Straightness
i use some of the cheapest arrows on the market that are priced at 60 dollars for a dozen only a[.00005]or something like that its just a 5but ill tell u what i have friends that shoot them 0002's i can shoot just as well as they can and they have been hunting for years i really dont think it makes a difference just like u said it just makes a bigger whole in ur wallet.i loe my arrows i dont care what people say about them ..im planning to take my first deer with them this year,i have confidence in them and thats all that matters
#3
RE: Arrow Straightness
i really don't notice a difference between .005's and .0025's when i cut from both ends and square both ends. if i didn't have a saw and squaring tool i'd go for the straighter ones. make sure you get the correct spine though.
#4
RE: Arrow Straightness
Guess we're talking about carbons. Personally I shoot Gold Tip Pro Series, but here's my experience. If carbon arrows are not stright it's usually at either or both ends. That's why I cut about 1 1/2" from the nock end and the rest from the point end. I end up with about a 27" arrow (that's for me). Assume starting with an arrow that is advertised at .005" I can end up with a shaft that is about .003".
If I start out with a .003" shaft then I end up with most being about .001". You get the picture?
However, to achieve these results I NEVER buy finished arrows because they are not cut from both ends. Besides, I've made up my own arrows for 30 years now.
Now, can I tell the difference between, say, .006" and .001"? You bet. I can tell the difference between .006" and .003". But I can't tell the difference between .003" and .001". Each person is going to be different in that respect.
Some other issues that come into play is that many times it's not just the straightness that is better. More expensive arrows (better grades) usually have tighter tolerances in weight and spine deviation, too. And some may disagree, but the spine deviation is the more important of the three qualities being discussed here.
Now, being a staff shooter I get the cream of the crop, but even before that, when I shot aluminums I shot the best available. Were I buying carbon arrows I would most likely go middle of the road and buy shafts with a .003" tolerance----Gold Tip Ultralites just in case you're curious. For hunting I'd use the XT's.
Hope this helps.
If I start out with a .003" shaft then I end up with most being about .001". You get the picture?
However, to achieve these results I NEVER buy finished arrows because they are not cut from both ends. Besides, I've made up my own arrows for 30 years now.
Now, can I tell the difference between, say, .006" and .001"? You bet. I can tell the difference between .006" and .003". But I can't tell the difference between .003" and .001". Each person is going to be different in that respect.
Some other issues that come into play is that many times it's not just the straightness that is better. More expensive arrows (better grades) usually have tighter tolerances in weight and spine deviation, too. And some may disagree, but the spine deviation is the more important of the three qualities being discussed here.
Now, being a staff shooter I get the cream of the crop, but even before that, when I shot aluminums I shot the best available. Were I buying carbon arrows I would most likely go middle of the road and buy shafts with a .003" tolerance----Gold Tip Ultralites just in case you're curious. For hunting I'd use the XT's.
Hope this helps.
#5
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 2,877
RE: Arrow Straightness
It depends on what you're trying to do with them. Some things to consider:
Are you trying to nail a quarter size "x" ring at 25 meters against some of the best shooters in the world or are you hunting moose?
How long are your shafts when cut? (The shorter they are cut the straighter they should become)
How fast are you pushing them? (The harder they are pushed the more sensitive they become)
How well do you shoot? (If your form causes a 4" group, you're not going to see a 1/2" difference in point of impact caused by the arrow.)
I think the average deer hunter could shoot +/- .006" arrows and kill just as many critters as the next guy, but if the next guy is standing on the tournament line shooting .003's, I want to be shooting .001's.
Are you trying to nail a quarter size "x" ring at 25 meters against some of the best shooters in the world or are you hunting moose?
How long are your shafts when cut? (The shorter they are cut the straighter they should become)
How fast are you pushing them? (The harder they are pushed the more sensitive they become)
How well do you shoot? (If your form causes a 4" group, you're not going to see a 1/2" difference in point of impact caused by the arrow.)
I think the average deer hunter could shoot +/- .006" arrows and kill just as many critters as the next guy, but if the next guy is standing on the tournament line shooting .003's, I want to be shooting .001's.
#6
RE: Arrow Straightness
I agree cut em off from the knock end,first,but I take it a step further I use the ASD arrow squring device gy G5 because thar arrow saw is not that precise in my book,Have ya ever noticed how some arrows fly better than others with a fixed blade broadhead,Its because they are not exactly square at the insert,this thind also squres the insert they are not square either. But some think i take this thing a lil too far.If I miss I dont want to blame my equipment.Good Hunting to all.