zac76156

Well, got the slick tricks in the mail today and couldn't seem to get them to group with my field tips. At 30 yds, they were left of the field tips by about 4". Moved up to 20, still about 4" left and about 3" low... I thought it must be a tuning issue, so I bare shaft tuned at 20yds. Bare shafts hit approx. 2" high and 6-7" left. Now I'm thinking its a stiff spine, my question is even with a short draw at 71# could it be that my ideal arrow would be a 3555 []

Sniper151

Zac, move your nock set up before you do any more adjustments. Many times the left or right will be corrected when the nock set is at the correct position.

zac76156

Sniper, sorry I should have mentioned that I did move my arrow rest down (about 1/8") and now the vertical plane is in line. The vertical adjustment may have made a slight difference in moving the bare shafts closer to the fletched, however the closest they got was about 3" left at 20

gonzodemon

Have you paper tuned your bow. also have some one stand behind you when you shoot to watch your arrow to see if its sidewinding or fishtailing out of the bow

BGfisher

I think I would try a 7595 before a 3555. Carbon arrows seem to act a little better if spined stiffer than if lighter. I can actually bare shaft a .300 spined arrow (GT 22 Pro Series) all the way down at 52 lbs and 27". Presently they are bare shafting well at 56 lbs where my bow maxes out. If you look at any chart you'll see that this is severly overspined, but hey, they work.

foulmouthfool

There is no way 3555's are going to fly good, WAY WAY WAY underspined!!!! You should be right on with those 5575's you're just going to have to tune your bow better. Even if those 5575's are underspined you can just crank your poundage down to get in the right range.

This is why I ALWAYS paper tune before I go to bare shaft and or broadhead tuning. So you can see EXACTLY what the arrow is doing when it leaves your bow. THAT BEING SAID, AND THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!.....> follow a paper tuning guide, but don't rely on exactly what it says. Make adjustments in small increments because shooting carbons with a release you can have THE EXACT OPPOSITE of what the tear is telling you. I have seen it more times than I can count. A tear indicating a weak spine turned out to be because of a stiff spine. The key is moving in small increments and if things do not get better, do exactly the opposite of what that tear is SUPPOSED to mean.

zac76156

thanks guys, I will be paper tuning tonight... I'll post the results

zac76156

Ok, just got done with the paper tune... Initially, I got a right tear with a slightly low tear mixed in... Moved the arrow rest up to correct low tear, then moved it left to correct right tear. Finally, I've got bullet holes!! Hopefully I'll get better results with the broadheads this time... Have to wait until tomorrow when I have some daylight to find out.