savedbygrace

In the eastons tuning guide, when it talks about bare shaft tuning it refers to finger release shooters, and when it talks about paper tuning it refers to mechaical release shooters. Does that mean mechanical release shooters shouldnt bare shaft tune or does it make a difference?

MOTOWNHONKEY

Not at all. Bare shaft works excellent with mechanical releases. Just be consistant with your release. In other words squeeze the realease solwly and smoothly each time. Good luck.

Mattiac

Of course you can do it, but it is more or less a waste of time.

Its basically usedfor testing out spine compatibilityof different arrows/with your bow. Since release aid shot bows, are less finicky of the spine they shoot, this isnt really necessary. Finger shooters on the other hand, benefit from trying several different spinearrows, and finding the spine that impacts closest with its fletched version.

My suggestion to a release aid shooter is to use either Paper tuning, group tuning, or broadhead tuning.

Theres honestly no need to tune more than one way either. Just eye-ball the settings, and skip to the tuning method you deem most important. For me, thats group tuning with 3d bows, and broadhead/group tuning with hunting bows.

Hope that helps----Matt

Arthur P

Bare shaft tuning is every bit as good as paper tuning for a release shooter. When you find out you don't have to waste time messing with sheets of paper, clamps, tape, frames... Bare shafting becomes much better. It will tell you everything paper tuning will tell you, with less time and effort.

When you get your bare shafts grouping with your fletched ones, then it's time to move on to group tuning and/or broadhead tuning. You can have your bow rough tuned before someone else has gotten set up and shot his first hole through a sheet of paper. By the time he's gotten his bullet hole and is just about to move on to group tuning and/or broadhead tuning, you're already done.

Paul L Mohr

I whole heartedly agree with Arthur. Bare shaft tuning works very well with a release, better so than paper tuning in my opinion. Just like paper tuning you can't expect exact results out of a certain adjustment when using a release. There are no set rules like when finger shooting.

Most of the time the conventional things apply for me though. However every now and then you may have to make the opposite adjustment to get the desired results.

Paul

Mattiac

Arthur, I respect your vast knowledge of archery, but I have to disagree to an extent.

I look at tuning a bow two ways.

You can progress through the tuning methods in an order like this;

Bareshaft tune ---to match spine
Papertune------to get the arrows coming out of the bow well
Group tune----to get the tightest groups possible
and finally BH tune----to get your bhs fine tuned and hitting with fps or in the tightest groups possible. (not necessary to use all those steps but you get the idea)

Im guessing thats your preffered method, and it is aGREAT way to truly dial in a bow...if you have the time, and understand how to do those properly.

Then theres my way....Call it the lazy way.

Eye ball all of your settings....and then skip to the tuning you find most important. (unless you want to bare-shaft tune for spine purposes)

Going straight to the method thats most important for what you are doing, saves time and frustration. I find that many people "chase their tail" when they use too many tuning methods, become frustrated, and bring it to the shop. Good for our income, butunfortunate for them.

If you need tight groups, walk back tune, french tune or group tune, they all accomplish the same basic thing. (tight groups)

If you want broadheads to hit with fps (broadhead tune).

So on and so forth...

I pretty much have the same feelings as you about paper tuning though. Unfortunately thats the most widely accepted form of tuning. Customers ALWAYS want their bow paper-tuned...I hate it.....Its EXACTLY as you described. A TIME CONSUMING P.I.A! You could easily skip that method, and go straight to group or bh tuning. (IMO)

Hope you understand what Im trying to get at...not trying to insult you or cause problems...just giving my thoughts.

Have a good one---Matt

Sniper151

I agree with Motown. With a hook you're at an advantage over a fingers shooter. Consistant release. Tuning should be a piece of cake to adjust center shot, rest angle and height, flight and grouping. Bareshaft will do it all with no need for the other, less reliable methods.
Good Hunting...

Arthur P

Mattiac, to avoid 'chasing my tail', first thing I do is use my bow square to set my nock height in relation to the mounting screw hole. Then I adjust the bow's tiller so the bow rides level in my hand all the way through the draw cycle. IMO, 99.9% of the struggling and 'tail chasing' that people are doing with high/low tears while paper tuning is a direct result of improper tiller adjustment.

Adjusting tiller first, before anything else, is the bedrock of a good bow tune. It gives you a solid platform to build on for the rest of your tuning. It practically eliminates most of the need for paper tuning. Bare shafting eliminates the rest.

Paper tuning is another wonder of legend and mythology we can thank Chuck Adams for popularizing. He shoots a few animals and that makes him an expert on bow tuning? I think not. Even then, you were supposed to use only his Satelite Match Point system for paper tuning. Remember that garbage? [8D]