I started initial search to eventually bye a field bred ESS English springer spaniel pup for hunting, trials and house. I’m looking for one with top pedigree and have called two breeders. Both where nice and had extremely high opinions of there dogs. What I found in asking basic questions like about eye test they seemed to be little taken back and almost insulted that I asked the question.
What’s best was to investigate breeders? Best way to ask questions without upsetting them ect..
How do I break down the pedigree? Some have champion like (FC) (CFC) after there name. How do I tell which is more valuable?


TrestandEd

"Hard work ... conviction ... pride ... responsibility ... class ... character ... success...BOWHUNTING

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In a word , Research. There really isn't any bad questions to ask a breeder when buying a new pup. I 'd be wary about someone "taken aback" when posing a question ,especially about , eyes, elbows and hips. A good breeder is going to welcome any and all questions and will have a few for you also in trying to find a pup that will fit you.
Look for a breeder that breeds a dog for your style of hunting and lifestyle. IMHO this is the single most important thing one can do. One doesn't need a high octain field trial dog for hunting that will be bounceing off walls in your home when you want it to be a nice foot warmer when not in the field.

One breeder that sounds very good, when I to ask health questions gave me the name and number to his vet to call.
Is that normal?

TrestandEd

"Hard work ... conviction ... pride ... responsibility ... class ... character ... success...BOWHUNTING

a breeder should be able to supply you with OFA # for hips and elbows and another (forget was organization off hand ) for eyes as well. If they want to supply vet as well that's good , but insist on certification.

It is normal for a breeder to give you the number to their vet if you have health questions as long as the vet has seen the puppies. If you talk to the vet, you may want to ask them if they bring their dogs in much for ear infections. Spanials and other dong with ears that hang can be prone to infections. Any breeder you use should give you a garantee about the eyes, and hips. Ask lots of questions! If they arn't forthcomming or you don't feel their being honest, keep looking! You can always come back later, but you could be stuck witha problem dog for life.

Also, ask to see the parents of the puppies you are looking at. Generaly at least the mother is on site. Watch her demeor is she hyper, laid back, agressive??? BE VARY WARY OF ANY BREEDER who has already seperated your puppy and is hesitant to show you the litter! That could be a sign of illness or poor conditions.

Before you look at pup, take a look at the AKC standard for the breed and keep it in mind when you look. If the dogs are not within the specifications you probaly arn't getting your money's worth. Remember, you don't NEED a purebreed to get a great hunting dog.

FC means feild champion, CFC-I belive is confirmed feild champion??? Don't quote me, but it is more of a distinctive title.

I don't necessarily agree with the advice that all breeders must provide OFA and/or CERF certification for them to be reputable.

I only have one litter per year, and I lease my male dog out for stud about twice more, for which a pup is usually the payment. I don't certify my dogs simply because it is cost prohibitive, and this would require me to charge an exorbitant amount for pups to recoup those expenditures. I know my dogs have good hips, elbows and eyes, and I offer to buy back any pup that doesn't. So far, I have never had to do so.

Also, measuring a dog against the AKC standard really has nothing to do with getting a good field dog. My English Setters are field-bred dogs, and as such are registered solely with the American Field FDSB. They bear little resemblance to the AKC show-type dogs, and they will absolutely leave in the dust the long-haired, lumbering, block-headed show dogs when it comes time for field work. They will then curl up at your feet by the fireplace in the evening, and be a nice, mellow house dog the rest of the time.

Mine also are able to compete in foot-hunting field trials, then go hunting at an appropriate range in any type of cover for any type of game bird. They are extremely easy to handle, and I often lend them to buddies who take them out hunting with excellent results. I've even had others handle them successfully in field trials.

I really don't classify myself as a breeder, however, so maybe you should look for these things when getting a pup from a breeder who sells puppies for a living. I'm just a bird hunter and part-time walking field trialer who breeds an occasional litter for friends and competitiors.

Good Dogwork and Good Hunting

Edited by - seattlesetters on 11/25/2002 23:00:56

I'm no expert, but I selected my dog after seeing her mom & dad hunt. That is something that I would recommend.

Ed: Maybe we can get together for a hunt after deer season. E-mail me off line again and we can talk about it. My Airedale is a flusher like a Springer so she will give you some experience. My personal opinion (for what it's worth) is that a flushing dog is better on ringnecks as they tend to run rather than hold tight. I also can recommend a trainer near you who is really great. I'm sure he can answer your questions.
Bill

Airedales hunt for feather or fur!

You should be able to see (or hunt with) the parents and see their health records. After that it's a matter of how much you want to spend to be certain that the pup has been tested for defects that run in the breed. Some dogs that are not "show" quality will make better hunters than show dogs, so that shouldn't be a requirement. You need a good guarantee and ask for references.

If a breeder doesn't want to answer health questions walk away and don't deal with him. The best breeders will assess you and only sell you a dog if you make the grade. They should try to match dog personalities to yours.

Dan O.