Yes both DD's and PP's shed. It is nothing compared to a lab or a setter but they do shed.

Huntermag

I can say with complete confidence that GSPs and DDs shed. The GSP's hairs are very small like little splinters, the DD's are longer and more noticible. Neither of them shed like a lab though. In fact, I think labs are probably the worst shedding dogs among the hunting breeds. All that hair to keep them warm comes with a price.

I hunt with German Shorthairs, love them. I hunt in an area with a lot of briars and such, no problems with keeping stuff out of their coats. Pretty easy to train, but once you get them outside, it's hard to get them back into the house. My buddy needs to take them for daily walks to burn off their energy, but they are only 4 and 3 (basically big puppies). Good luck with whatever you get.

Your options are unlimited, I professionally train bird dogs and retrievers, as gun dogs and some compitition, You need tofigure out what you feel will best suit you. If your hunting timber, I feel for an average hunter a closer working dog is more enjoyable. Reason is if dog attemps to stretch out little bit and gets outta site, you don't have to panic. Whether dog is broke or not, respect to you, and the game is manditory. So you've got brittanies, vizsla, german shorthairs.. If you are gonna be running more open woods or fields, your pointers and setters are better. Now don't get me wrong some of the breedsI mentioned before can get out and strole pretty good also. The biggest thing is what you enjoy, everyone has there own opinion, the dog and you need to have your bond, if your not happy with the choice, that bond can end up being null and void!! Understand, puppies are enjoyable, and you can start alot by yourself, a broke dog is also very nice what I feel about buying a dog is at puppy stage you guys seem to be alot tighter, the trust is more comfortable. You can take the dog somewheer when he's ready and have him trained to be steady. The bond is still there. The biggest thing that I can say with dogs is "patience" keep everything black and white, to yourself and your dog, because you both are learning. Jonesy

Jonesy

I got a question. Actually, alot of questions about birddogs. I have a 6.5 month old Llewellin setter. Is it too early to train her with a remote collar? On leash she does well off leash is another story. There are situations where when she gets loose she runs into traffic as I live in an urban area. It's critical that she listens.

Also, how do I teach her to circle the bird on command to stop it from running? I know you're suppose to flush it from the sides but I also would like it to stop running.

There are some good trainers here but you are the first professional trainer I've seen here.

One thing that always should be in your mind is everyday is a training day, Dogs are creature of habit, so repitition is a virtue. Now what I mean by this is that every day you try teach something, wether it goin to bathroom outside, load and unload from dog box, yard work, bird exposure, anything. 6.5 mo, is fine, watch what how with the collar.
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I would start with is just some ground basics, now when I start a new dog I do alot with a pinch collar, but if you don't have I can help you work through, what I start teaching is to stop and stand, so 8 -10ft. check cord, and collar on neck, but not turned on unless dog used to wearing. The collar is a dangerous tool, I have worked a lot dogs through collar problems, timing is everything. Take the dog and tug on its neck, not a jerk just a tug " its cue " that I need to stop and stand. When it stops, just satnd, DONT' SAY ANYTHING!! Give the dog couple seconds, tap on the side to release. As this goes on you'll see dog reponding to the tug, and the tap. Now if dog is used to collar, you can also nick at light setting at the same time with the tug. The collar is goin to overlay the tug, before you know it you'll nick with collar and dog will stop and stand!! When I teach all this I will do 2 or 3 stop and stands, and a couple "here's" then put up, you can let run or something later in the day. With the here's take and let the dog be out front on the cc and tell it here, if it comes in great if not take and roll the check cord, when the wave gets to dogs neck repeat here. soon as it comes in hands on the dog, pet down the side or something. You want the dog to accept here as a good thing, so many people use here only when the dog is getting put up, it start assuming its done for the day and the here command turns into a bad thing in the dogs mine, then later dad, don't here ya. Understand?? "Patience" is gonna be your keyword for the day!!You might not see it all right off the bat but you'll see within a week of training. Bird work most dogs learn that on there own. Lot of bird exposure. What are you hunting, wild or pen raised? What the stop and stand will end up doin is overlaying into your bird work, before you know it dog will be steady to wing, and or shot. Yeah!! Jonesy

What if you really don't want to have to run your dog with a collar? Using your tactic, how are you eventually going to get your dog to stop without a collar on?

If you properly collar condition your dog, there should be no difference if the collar is on or off. If your dog obeys when the collar is on, but not when it is off, he is colar wise, and you hosed the training.

That being said, I would not let the pup off check cord unless it was in a place where traffic was not a problem. Call the pup into you every now and then, give them a treat, then send them on their way.

Biggest mistake people make is only calling the dog in to leash them up. Think from the dog's point of view, why come in when he knows the fun is going to end and he is going to get leashed up. Dogs are not all that complicated, but you have to look at stuff from their perspective.

Exactly, so if you start out with the collar on and dog has no idea whats is being asked, you are making an uneccesary correction, what I am doing is getting him started on what and why, I have to assume the owner doesn't know whats goin on to the full extent. So I will help him, and try and ex. so the owner understands. The collar will be major tool, along with check cord, but, think if the dog has no idea what and why, you start creating problems. Dog training needs to stay blk/wht, for the handler and dog!! It is just like teaching retrievers to sit, the bird dog stops, and stands. Your final project is starting to complete. As far as treat goes, when the dog comes in to the here command it will be facing forward, You can give tug on the neck, dog will stop and stand, stroke him down the center of its back tap on side and send on. Thats the treat, your hands on the dog, big thing is to watch the dog, make sure it doesn't get to jacked up cause then the wiggles start. I would just stroke and tap get it on, the dogs focus will stay on whats being asked. Now when your workout is done then you can have play time, the dog will learn the difference.

Ya know I reread your last paragraph, and agree 100%, if you reread what I told thats the same thought. The dogs are easy to train, owners are what is complicated. Just like what I have found to well for me, from the dogs perspective right now the tug, means to stop and stand, the collar will overlay in week or so, then it will mean the same thing. And i don't know if you personally have done anything with setters, but you expecially need to take time on them, alot of them do not matureas fast as other breeds, and it seems to take longer to fix a setter, they don'tseem to be as forgiving. Jonesy