bigcountry

Oh Pistol. I doubt they will ever wear out. I thougt you were talking bottlneck.

Mark whiz

Save your $$$$$ and just use the brass cases you have. I've never bought nickel cases (other than loaded factory ammo that came with nickel cases) and I don't intend to - the extra expense is just not justified......unless you just like the look.
I've been reloading the same set of .357 brass cases(Win, Rem, & Fiochhi) for over 3 years now and have never had a case fail, crack, chip or anything - so you can load those Federals with confidence.

Rebel Hog

FORGET NICKEL-PLATED BRASS.... I liked the looks and feel of nickel-plated cases, but I don't load them anymore and here is why. The cases are strong and it is easy enough to outside neck turn them. That is not the problem. The nickel-plating on the case neck ID is like sandpaper. The only way you might be able to remove this grit is with a case neck ID reamer if you have a "tight neck" chamber and enough neck wall thickness to work with. If you have a loaded nickel-plated round laying around and don't believe me, just pull the bullet. It will look like you pulled it out of a tube of 180 grit wet/dry sandpaper. If you pull the bullet out of a brass case mouth that has been carefully chamfered and polished with the steel wool process above, it will be essentially like out of the bullet box. Want copper in the barrel? Start by sanding the surface of those nice polished precision bullets. Try it with a Moly Coated bullet and it is even worse; the nickel-plated cases scrape off the Moly. The nickel-plated case neck IDs don't get any better after you reload them a few times. They are still like sandpaper. Think about a few of those nickel pieces of grit imbedding into the copper of the bullet and what they do to your rifle barrel! I have heard that the nickel is hard enough to score some reloading dies and also wear down the expander ball. Any metal that hard, should be kept away from your precision barrel. I have heard that some people have had success in removing the nickel plate from the neck IDs with a stainless steel brush and a drill motor. I haven't tried it.

goarmy

Nickel is shiny. That shine cost u extra $$!

Various woodland creatures aren't particular as to "how cool" thecartridge appeared prior to chambering, discharge and subsequent impact.

BarnesX.308

What about pressure. I was under the impression that these are a little thicker than brass and more rigid. Would that cause higher pressures than an equal load in a brass case.

Roskoe

Thicker brass will cause higher pressures. One of the old rules of thumb for the .308 class of cartridges was to reduce the charge by 10% of the difference in case weight. I don't know if the nickel brass is heavier or not . . . but I agree with Rebel Hog - stay away from it. The only application I can see would be a hunt maybe in coastal Alaska where salty air corrosion was an issue, and you weren't going to reload the brass anyway.

Vapodog

deleted

Jeep4x4

Ditch all the nickelcases you have. It is brittle and will come open after a few loadings. Ive got several that havent been loaded probably 4 or 5 times and the neck split.