I agree whole heartly with them. It worked out great in a 300RUM I had. I was shooting A-Frames, and getting 2MOA groups, I moved it back and back and back from 3.62" COL to 3.55" and got it down to subMOA.

Alot of poeple Roskoe has this conception that this changes harmonics and all that, but you have also changing the load effectively. And will be increasing pressure for most powders the deeper you go.

Now when you cut the neck of the case. How much do you cut away. Half the neck or less than half. Or do you just have to keep cutting them until you find the right cut???

You cut length ways. What you are trying to do is be able to let a bullet be pushed down in it. I cut down the neck and a little bit in the shoulder. I will take a picture and send to ya tonight.

I'm not convinced that seating bullets near the lands does anything good for accuracy. I've played with it a bit in the past and found that its more of a waste of good bullets and gunpowder than its worth. I Use a OAL guage to figure out what my max length is so I don't mistakenly seat bullets any closer than 0.020" to the lands, I prefer farther away if possible with jacketed bulelts.

Two of my most accurate rifles: a 1903A3 likes cast bullets engraved tight into the rifling, a 1896 mauser that has so much freebore that getting a bullet anywhere near the lands would be impossible.

Well, I never posted this to find the most accurate or whatever. I have been successful on doing that with quite an array of rifles as you probably have also. I rarely find a rifle with such a short throat to even worry about this. I posted this cause I am without my stoney until my buddy sends it back, and I was wanting experience with people who use the Split case method. Because the throat is so short.

And its no secret to any reloader that jamming in the rifling can cause you to show pressure signs way before reaching the velocity potential.

If you dont have a stoney point gauge then you can take a bullet and put it in a case just enough for it to hold, color all of the bullet that isnt in the case and push the cartridge into the chamber, pull it out and if the bullet is stuck just take a peice of a cleaning rod and drop it down the barrel, re-seat the bullet to the mark the case left on the bullet when it got pushed into the case and measure the length. This usually gets your OAL length from the ogive. I sometimes do this because I dont have a OAL gauge. I usually just trim the cases to an exact length and maybe .004" shorter on accident, then I'll seat the bullet to the same length as a factory load of the same bullet weight then due to each bullet being longer or shorter I'll re set my seater die to compensate for each bullets length. That way each cartridge is the exact same length.

As I mention in the orginal post, they techniques seem worthless to me as yes, I remember first time reading a reloading manual and them telling me to do that.

I seat everything .030 from the lands. This almost always works well for me. If it does not work then I start fooling with seating depth. I don't reload for the pure joy of reloading like I did 35 years ago or so. Just reload because I have the stuff and its cheaper. I have never had a length guage.

yep me too, I usually always start @ .030 Id say 4 of the 7 rifles I shoot are .030 and the other 3 are .035-.040.

Mossy, I know one rifle you don't seat .03" from the rifleing.