Blasthoff

You mentioned "cake pan restoration"? That is something I can help with. No, you don't have to "Blue" it. lol You actually can bring it back to useful shape. Steel baking pans can be "seasoned" much like cast iron. Clean the rust with Brillo wash and dry. Wipe the pan inside (and outside if needed) with a very, very light coat of vegetable oil, so little that it will not drip or run. Place it upside down in a 350F oven for at least an hour and let cool gradually. Sometimes with a first "seasoning" a second application will help. What you end up with is almost like a coat of varnish that inhibits it from rusting and helps produce a non stick finish. As odd as it may seem it's sort of cross between metal bluing and stock finishing. Replenished from time to time those steel baking pans can last many years if not a lifetime.

Petuniapipedesigns

I was sent this by my client whom I’m designing and building 5 separate custom lights for! When she sent me the link and I read the first paragraph explaining that this was an experiment and evaluation for a product used on gun barrels my instinct was to close the page and continue my search, however the sarcasticly honest tone, and background events going on during the experiment were all too familiar just reversed, (my loving husband has cursed through many of my experiments, most of which require many hours of mock trials and assembling just to disassemble). So I pressed on....and after 10-15 minutes a learning and laughing out loud hysterically I feel very educated On the cold blue process (which I knew NOTHING about).
I’m seriously considering this process for my current project, and will certainly post my results (including my loving husbands thoughts and opinions as he will be my unwilling assistant)
Thank you for the entertainment post it helped greatly! To all the haters and critics you mentioned in the beginning of the post....put your thumbs away please and appreciate this guys lovely humor and the time spent writing this post! Thanks

(Ps I don’t proofread so excuse to horrible grammar and punctuation, writing is not my strong suit)

Petuniapipedesigns

Hi,

After looking at the pictures and the explanation of the process I have a couple of questions about the end result after multiple coats of blue.

The finish after the last 3 coats were applied looked very black, but the up-close after the abrasion process showed lots of blue with the edges seeming very black. Which image is the best example of what the finished product will look like? I attached the two images
I'm referring to to the bottom.

Since I'm not using this on a gun but on unfinished steel lighting parts I'm just trying to understand what the finished product is going to look like.

Lastly since these parts are not going to be used or handled very much what would be the best sealer or top coat to use over the bluing?

Thanks,

Kelly

So this is where the picture should have been but i haven't posted enough to be able to add photos so the two pictures I'm referring to are the 4th and 6th photos in the process.

bronko22000

my local gunsmith who does excellent bluing did my .54 cal custom ML barrel for me and he didn't like the way it came out. He told me to bring it back after the season (last year). There were areas that didn't take the bluing that well and he used the same batch of bluing on other firearms and they came out nice.
I had some time a couple weeks ago and nothing to lose so I degreased the barrel then rinsed it in warm water, dried it and applied Birchwood Casey's Perma Blue Creme per the instructions. In just 2 coats with light steel wool buffing in between and the barrel came out excellent. I couldn't have asked for a better job.

davidmilleerr

My only real experience has been with moen faucets. They install easy, look good and the warrenty is fantastic. They stand behind their 100% warrenty all the way. If a o-ring or any other part goes bad all you have to do is call moen and you'll have the part within three days.