Remington 870 Express Makeover
#1
Well my brother begged my dad for this gun and he finally gave in. Soooo my brother decided to spray paint the whole thing camo. I could have died...cuz it looks horrible.
Well soon afterwards he got tired of painting it and left it in the gun case for 2 years unfinished. So I asked him his plans for the gun and he said I could have it cuz he wasnt going to finish it.
So I am sanding all the spray paint off and its hard work, bad part is all the finish on the barrel came off with the paint and I have no idea what im doing. Is there something I can buy to put that finish back on? The blueing or whatever its called...Im not familiar with it.
Sorry for sounding dumb, but I want the gun to look good when its done.
Well soon afterwards he got tired of painting it and left it in the gun case for 2 years unfinished. So I asked him his plans for the gun and he said I could have it cuz he wasnt going to finish it.
So I am sanding all the spray paint off and its hard work, bad part is all the finish on the barrel came off with the paint and I have no idea what im doing. Is there something I can buy to put that finish back on? The blueing or whatever its called...Im not familiar with it.
Sorry for sounding dumb, but I want the gun to look good when its done.
#2
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,970
Likes: 0
From: Clermont Florida U.S.
If you want it re-blued, you had better take it to a gunsmith. That's not a particularily easy task for most folks. The wooden stock can be totally cleaned up, sanded and refinished with something like several coats of tung oil. Now that you could do...ands it's kind of fun! Good luck.
#3
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
You could Dura Coat it. Not very difficult to do, comes in a variety of different colors, and lasts well. http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/
I like to use Tru Oil on my wooden gun stocks, but you can use Tung Oil, or stain it, or you could even Dura Coat it as well.
Hope you have fun with it!
I like to use Tru Oil on my wooden gun stocks, but you can use Tung Oil, or stain it, or you could even Dura Coat it as well.
Hope you have fun with it!
#4
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,186
Likes: 0
From:
Jeese! If you want the blued "look", strip all the paint off the metal parts and take it to a gun smith for rebluing. You could try "cold bluing" using something like a Birchwood bluing kit, but I doubt you's be happy with the results.As for the wood, takes only elbow grease, paint stripper and time to remove all the paint. Then refniish. Probably could get by with some sanding out the dents and scratches,and then "restain" followed by several coats of satin or flat finish polyurethane.Coule leave it natural and rubb down with boiled linseed oil.
If the butt plate or other exterior parts are a "plastic" and have been painted too, it'll be tough to get the paint off these without buggering up the look. I suggest pitching these parts and ordering new ones.
If the butt plate or other exterior parts are a "plastic" and have been painted too, it'll be tough to get the paint off these without buggering up the look. I suggest pitching these parts and ordering new ones.
#5
There are two ways to go about this.... the easy, but slightly more expensive way.... or the hard work but economically sound way.
The easy way is to find a gunsmith, or even just someone, who parkerizes guns. Parkerization will protect your gun better than just about anything else, and is leaps and bounds better than the original finish on that express. You can stop sanding and stripping right now, because the first step in parkerization is to sandblast all the metal parts... so its part of the price. Last time I was around the shop, the going rate was $125 complete (half the price of a well done reblue).
The more complex way is to keep stripping all the paint off and use a bake on moly coat. Its similar to powder coating. Brownells sells a moly type spray paint that you can spray on to the striped gun. Then, having taken the gun apart, literally bake it in the oven like a sheet of cookies. Directions are on the can. The issue you must be aware of is that if you make it too thick in certain places, you might end up screwed... and if you think paint is tough to get off... moly is seriously almost impossible... even sandblasting doesn't work overwhelmingly great.
The easy way is to find a gunsmith, or even just someone, who parkerizes guns. Parkerization will protect your gun better than just about anything else, and is leaps and bounds better than the original finish on that express. You can stop sanding and stripping right now, because the first step in parkerization is to sandblast all the metal parts... so its part of the price. Last time I was around the shop, the going rate was $125 complete (half the price of a well done reblue).
The more complex way is to keep stripping all the paint off and use a bake on moly coat. Its similar to powder coating. Brownells sells a moly type spray paint that you can spray on to the striped gun. Then, having taken the gun apart, literally bake it in the oven like a sheet of cookies. Directions are on the can. The issue you must be aware of is that if you make it too thick in certain places, you might end up screwed... and if you think paint is tough to get off... moly is seriously almost impossible... even sandblasting doesn't work overwhelmingly great.




