Austin/WI

Hey guys, go another question about my old Mauser. I've been thinking about replacing the stock on it, and have found several places online that are pretty affordable (starting at about $115). However, I'm thinking about trying to re-finish it first. I figure it couldn't hurt to try and if it does't work, well, I've already found a couple I like anyhow.

So any pointers, tips, etc. on re-finishing stocks. Any prefered stains, sealers, etc.? My father is a painter and we have a couple ideas about how to go about it as well as some ideas for stains/sealers, but we're looking for some advice from those who've done this before. As always, thanks in advance guys! -Austin

salukipv1

haha, I had to laugh....what kind of quality do you want for the outcome? if anything better will be an improvement and fine with you, go for it.

personally woodworking/wood finishing is an artwork all its own, so having aspirations of this gorgeous stock that someone would charge you a grand to finish professionally, I wouldn't expect.....because it is a skill, and to myself just thinking about it, makes me not even want to consider it.......my main point of concern would be the checkering.......

yea if youre just going to replace it anyway and want to try it out, go for it, you may consider just having a pro restock it, though that would cost you more than $115 for a nice peice of wood and fitting etc....

Austin/WI

That is partially whyu I've enlisted my father's help in this - he's a master at woodworking and has been making custom trim/etc for years. I was asking more along the lines of running into technical problems with fit afterwards, adding or removing material, etc.

And to be completely honest, I'm not looking for this gun to be a wall hanging master-piece. I plan on shooting this thing!

thndrchiken

If you had read the post, it says old mauser, nothing about any checkering or detail work. Besides what is the harm in learning something new. If he refinishes the stock and don't like he already had his mind set to replace it so no harm done. Anyways, to refinish the stock we need a little more info to work with. first, is it covered in cosmoline? or has it been cleaned up fairly well already? What are your expectations?If the stock is covered in cosmoline then you'll want to get it off and the easiest way I've found is to use kerosene and rags and be prepared to be at it for a while. I don't like hitting the wood with sand paper until all of the old finish is off and then as sparingly as possible. You cannot replace what you have just sanded off, keep that in mind that is why I prefer the chemical strippers that can be sprayed or brushed on. Once all of the finish is off you'll need to raise any dings and dents which can be done with a wet towel and an iron or soldering iron, your dad should be familiar with the concept of steaming a piece of wood. Then once all that is done then smooth everything out with some 600 grit wet dry paper, I like to use some linseed oil to keep the cutting to a minimum and you'll see what kind of figure you have to your wood. Rinse the stock and then your ready for stain if you want to go that route, many like to leave the wood au natural. After several coats of stain to achieve the desired color then comes the fun part of choosing what type of finish. For a first time project I would suggest an oil finish. My favorite is 1 part tung oil, 1 part linseed oil and 2 parts japan drier. Apply the first two coats and either wet sand or buff with XXXX steel wool then tack rag it to get any particles and dust off and repeat allowing 24-48 hrs between coats, repeat several times to build depth and once the desired depth is achieved apply another 6-8 coats without sanding for a nice finish and allow to cure for at least a month. Now with that said there are a lot of commercial finishes available that you can use that may be less work.

Austin/WI

thndrchicken - the stock has been cleaned of cosmoline, though I don't know what type of sealant is currently on the stock. From what it sounds, you recommend avoiding sanding as much as possible, preferring to use chemical strippers? Ok, would Acetone, MEK, or something of similar properties work? Or do I need to go a little higher strength? I appreciate the post, thank you!

Austin/WI

Here is a pic of my GF with the rifle (only pic I have of it lol). You can see its a sporter with an ugly beat up stock. [>:] There is almost no visable wood grain (not sure if it's just a crappy wood or crappy stain/sealer combo, we'll find out!) and the stock itself has plenty of dings and scratches as well. Overall it is a great rifle though, very accurate and a blast to bring to the range when the macho guys are out there (the ones without ear protection )

thndrchiken

Ok, looks like it's already been sporterized and refinished so that will greatly reduce the amount of work that will need to be done. I forget the name of the spray stripper is that I have used in the past. Any of the commercially available strippers will work just fine. Ask your dad what he would use to remove varnish with the least amount of effort and I'm sure that will do just fine. Be very careful around that foreend tip, make sure you mask it off very well and try to stay light with the stripper around it. Oh and by the way that is a nice Argentine mauser, is the royal crest still on the receiver?

Austin/WI

Thanks, Everything except the stock really is in excellent condition (markings included). If I could find the parts to put her back to original I would. I thought turning it into a WWII style sniper rifle would be kinda cool since it is already drilled and tapped for a scope, but again, it's hard to find the original stock pieces.

You said to be careful around the tip, why? And I guess you probably can't tell in the pics, the tip is painted with black paint. I don't know if there's any good wood under there, but it sure looks ugly painted like that IMO.