I bought a Remington 700 BDL 30.06 about 2.5 years ago. Had the trigger "adjusted" to 3/3.5 lbs. right after I got it and used it for the past couple of seasons. I decided to go to a different local gunsmith and have him check the trigger b/c I have thought it was a little too hard. Come to find out the trigger was about 4.5lbs.I was mad b/c I thought the first guy, who has a good name in our area, didn't touch the trigger. The guy who has the gun nowwas having trouble adjusting it to the correct poundage and said the trigger was only going up in poundage to 5 lbs. He's now sendingthegun back to Remington to be fixed. Has anyone here had to send anything to Remington to be fixed before? If so,about how long should I expect it to take? And what kind of cost should I expect? Any help is appreciated.Thanks in advance.

If I am reading this correctly the new "guy" is the second gunsmith and he is the one sending it to Remington???

I first gotta ask why he is going up in weight?

Second is why on earth would a gunsmith need to send a gun back to Remington because of the trigger not going up in weight enough? It could be something as simple as a burr, piece of gritt, etc... Remington triggers are very simple to work on, do a real trigger job on and just make regular adjustments on.

I 'll just say this. Grab the rifle from this "smith" and run as far away from him as you can. No competentgunsmith needs to return no stinking 700 trigger back to the factory unless the trigger is defective and has some serious tolerance issues, the fact that your trigger was originally working well means that some grit or goop got in the mechanism..The problem I had was the safety would not move back to "Safety" . The authorized repair center unfortunately had a bad new part in stock and that had the same problem. It took 3 triggers to get it right but it finally worked out.

I have adjusted the triggers on a number of those Remington bolt actions. There are three screws-one adjusts the amount of pressure the trigger spring applies to the trigger. Another one adjusts the sear engagement, which you can watch visually thru the hole in the top of the trigger box as you turn the screw, and the other one adjusts the amount the triggermoves after the sear is released (overtravel). If a person is experiencing INCREASING trigger weight when turning the screw that changes weight of pull, he is turning the screw the WRONG direction!! It might be necessary to adjust the sear engagement in order mto get the pull weight down. THIS IS AN ADJUSTMENT YOU HAVE TO DO WITH VERY SLIGHT MOVEMENTS OF THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW,(BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP), SINCE IF THIS ENGAGEMENT IS LEFT TOO SLIGHT,THE RIFLE CAN FIRE WHEN THE BOLT IS SLAMMED SHUT OR WHEN THE SAFETY IS PUSHED OFF AFTER THE TRIGGER IS PULLED WHEN THE SAFETY WASON!! But since you can watch the change of engagement as you turn thescrew-very slight movement of the screw!!

The overtravel screw should be set so that there IS a detectable, slight movement of the trigger after release, but not much!!

Once all three screws are set where they should be, the trigger a nd safety are functioning correctly (see below for testing suggestions), use some Loctite, nail polish etc. to glue the screws in place so the adjustments don't change in the future.

When you use the trigger spring screw to reduce the weight of pull, you may find that it is not possible to reduce it as much as you'd desire SAFELY, since the friction of the parts might make such a setting too light for the spring to permit the rifle to cock properly and stay cocked safely when the bolt is operated. I have found this to be the case a few times. My fix for this was to disassemble the trigger mechanism completely, and polish all the moving parts with a haedArkansas oilstone to smooth up thesurfaces so they's work with less friction, then use a light oil on the surfaces as I reassemble the trigger. WHEN DOING SUCH WORK, CARE MUST BE TAKENTO NOT CHANGE THE ANGLES OF ANYENGAGING SURFACES THT ENGAGE OTHER PARTS, SUCH AS THE TRIGGER AND SEAR CONTACT EDGES, ETC.

Once you have thetrigger set at the poundage you want (I recommend that you never go below 3#-3.5#with the M7-M700 triggers), reassemble the rifle thentest for safety by cocking the action, then slamming the bolt shut and dry-firing it at least ten cycles to make sure that the striker does NOT fall when the bolt slammed shut. Next, do the same, except now you put the safety on, pull the trigger, then push the safety off. The striker must remain cocked! Do this ten times also. If you have a striker fall during any of these tests, the sear engagement must be increased EVER SO SLIGHTLYuntil the strijker does not fall when the safety is pushed off, ANDAT THE SAME TIME the trigger spring screw is screwed in EVER SO SLIGHTLY to increase the weight of pull a tiny bit until the rifle functions safely when tested as above!

Adjusting these triggers is a PITA, compared to some others. But it is no real puzzle for anyone with a slight bit of mechanical aptitude who can figure out how a simple mechanism works by reading & observation!

If the guy hasn't sent the rifle to Remington yet, I would get it back and find another smith, if this is a gun you bought new. If this is a gun with the old Walker fire control trigger, that would be different. There was reacall on those years ago. I own several M700s i really like them. That being said, I had an incident last fall I will relate. I have a stainless M700 muzzleloader, due to my slug gun being stolen last year, I was going to use the muzzy for deer season. I took it out to check the zero, and when I took it apart to clean it, at home, I dropped the bolt on a carpeted floor, and the handle popped off. I looked it over, and to my surprise, the handle on these is brazed on, and not very well I might add. So,I called Remington, they said, by all means send it in, it would be covered under the lifetime warrenty of the gun. I sent the bolt off two weeks before deer season, with the hope that I would get it back in time. A week later I started calling,

!.) Couldn't get ahold of any one in Ilion NY that new anything about my bolt
2.) I was told when the bolt made it to it's final destination, I would receive notification, and would be put on the repair list, average wait about six weeks ( to get to it, notto repair it)
3.) after about a dozen calls, they finally admitted they lost my bolt

I was persistent enough that I finally got in touch with a very astute lady that said "I'll take care of it, I will just send you a new bolt". That is whatI wanted to hear. I received the bolt a couple of days later, To my surprise it needed to be fitted by a gunsmith! It also was not a 209 conversion bolt which what I sent in. I ended up buying a new slug gun in the meantime, and they eventually found my original bolt and sent it as well, but it was some what of a nightmare. I would not recommen sending anything to Remington. JMHO

The gunsmith that adjusted my Rem. 700 trigger put epoxy back over the screws. I had him set mine at 3.5, not sure I would want it any lighter for hunting. I am with everyone here in that I would not want a smith working on my gun if he had to send it back to Rem for trigger work.