M1 Garand jamming
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Winston-Salem, North Carolina
Posts: 1,150
M1 Garand jamming
In January I picked up a new M1 Garand - one of the 1000 that Springfield still cranks out every year. It's chambered in .30-06 and I've been shooting Core-Lokt 165 gr.
I've probably put 120 rounds through it. In every third clip or so one of the cartridges gets jammed. Does anyone know why this might be happening?
I've probably put 120 rounds through it. In every third clip or so one of the cartridges gets jammed. Does anyone know why this might be happening?
#2
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location:
Posts: 70
RE: M1 Garand jamming
post your question over on this board someonr will be able to help you.
http://www.battlerifles.com/index.ph...025aea55141c46
http://www.battlerifles.com/index.ph...025aea55141c46
#3
RE: M1 Garand jamming
Being a gas operated semi auto they can be very picky about what cartridges you feed it.
In a gas operated semi auto the force of the gas has to over come the weight of the parts and the springs at a very specific rate for the rifle to function properly. When you change bullet weight, burn rate of powder, ammount of powder, etc... it can all effect the cycleing of the firearm and many times cause it to not function properly.
The M1 was not designed to fire the 165 grain bullets. The bullet is traveling too fast down the bore to build sufficient pressure and over a specific ammount of time to cycle all of the parts. I suspect that most of the time the action is cycling just barely enough to eject and rechamber another round and every now and then it just won't go far enough.
You might try some of the 180 grain loadings since the original ball ammo was 174 grain at 2800 fps. A factory 180 grain bullet will be much closer to the design parameters than the 165 grain loadings.
In a gas operated semi auto the force of the gas has to over come the weight of the parts and the springs at a very specific rate for the rifle to function properly. When you change bullet weight, burn rate of powder, ammount of powder, etc... it can all effect the cycleing of the firearm and many times cause it to not function properly.
The M1 was not designed to fire the 165 grain bullets. The bullet is traveling too fast down the bore to build sufficient pressure and over a specific ammount of time to cycle all of the parts. I suspect that most of the time the action is cycling just barely enough to eject and rechamber another round and every now and then it just won't go far enough.
You might try some of the 180 grain loadings since the original ball ammo was 174 grain at 2800 fps. A factory 180 grain bullet will be much closer to the design parameters than the 165 grain loadings.
#5
RE: M1 Garand jamming
The M1 was not designed to fire the 165 grain bullets. The bullet is traveling too fast down the bore to build sufficient pressure and over a specific ammount of time to cycle all of the parts. I suspect that most of the time the action is cycling just barely enough to eject and rechamber another round and every now and then it just won't go far enough.
You might try some of the 180 grain loadings since the original ball ammo was 174 grain at 2800 fps. A factory 180 grain bullet will be much closer to the design parameters than the 165 grain loadings.
You might try some of the 180 grain loadings since the original ball ammo was 174 grain at 2800 fps. A factory 180 grain bullet will be much closer to the design parameters than the 165 grain loadings.
Dumb question- are you greasing the rifle where it needs to be greased? The rifle should work ok without it, but works much better with grease.
If the bolt is shortcycling, I would also have the gas cylinder/oprod piston checked out to make sure they aren't worn out of spec.
If all else fails, send it back to SA and have them make it right for you.
#6
Join Date: May 2004
Location:
Posts: 454
RE: M1 Garand jamming
Briman, you beat me to the punch. The 'standard' Garand round was the 147 grain bullet, not the 174. I load the Sierra 168 match for mine and have never had a problem, and I agree that powder selection has more to do with the rifle functioning correctly than does the bullet weight. I also agree with the proper lubrication issues. If you don't already know how, learn to tear the rifle to 'parade rest' and clean and lube as necessary. I use militec lubes on all my firearms, and never have lubrication problems. Good luck!
#7
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Winston-Salem, North Carolina
Posts: 1,150
RE: M1 Garand jamming
Dumb question- are you greasing the rifle where it needs to be greased? The rifle should work ok without it, but works much better with grease.
Also, I'm not sure how often to field strip it. I've heard as infrequently as possible from a couple buddies and the gun delaer who sold it to me. But my dad, who started his Army career using them, said I should do it frequently.
#8
RE: M1 Garand jamming
Ok, then you will want to take your Garand apart and get familiar with it.
Parts that need grease-
-top camming surface of the hammer
-Bolt raceway on the receiver
-Oprod track on the receiver
-the track in the receiver that the follower rides in
-Inside of the camming surface on the oprod
-the first 1-2" of the underside of the barrel where the oprod makes incidental contact
-Oprod piston- put a little grease on it, then wipe it clean
-Any other moving part that you would normally oil on another gun except:
-do not grease any of the parts in the trigger/sear assembly
-do not grease inside of gas cylinder- this will cause it to foul up faster.
Disassembly- the M1 is probably the easiest rifle ever made to strip
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/nomenclature.html
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/fieldstrip.html
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/detailstrip.html
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/reassembly.html
Parts that need grease-
-top camming surface of the hammer
-Bolt raceway on the receiver
-Oprod track on the receiver
-the track in the receiver that the follower rides in
-Inside of the camming surface on the oprod
-the first 1-2" of the underside of the barrel where the oprod makes incidental contact
-Oprod piston- put a little grease on it, then wipe it clean
-Any other moving part that you would normally oil on another gun except:
-do not grease any of the parts in the trigger/sear assembly
-do not grease inside of gas cylinder- this will cause it to foul up faster.
Disassembly- the M1 is probably the easiest rifle ever made to strip
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/nomenclature.html
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/fieldstrip.html
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/detailstrip.html
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/reassembly.html
#9
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Altadena CA
Posts: 494
RE: M1 Garand jamming
My Garand often jams on the 7th round. I've had two 'smiths work it over without any luck. Have also posted about it on a few websites, but although some had heard of the "seventh round problem," nobody had an answer.