Sauer 202 classic or ss?
01-25-2007, 06:05 AM
#3
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jackson, Michigan
Posts: 381
RE: Sauer 202 classic or ss?
I have 3 Sauers. A Model 90 .300 Win Mag, a Model 200 .30.06 with an extra .270 barrel, and a 202 in .300 Win Mag. They're tack drivers and probably the smoothest bolt there is! I don't own a synthetic...mine are all deluxe grade wood. I just love a pretty wood, but I am sure you would get the same quality from a sythetic/stainless gun. However, the synthetics seem to be harder to sell. I think most people who spend a lot for a gun also like wood. I watch Sauers sell on gunbroker.com all the time and this seems to be the trend. Make sure you break the barrel in correctly for future accuracy. This is one potential problem with a used gun. Not knowing if the barrel was broken in correctly. Good luck, I am sure you will love shooting a Sauer. While you're looking at a top notch gun, you might want to look at a Shepherd scope for it. That's what I have on all my Sauers. If you're patient, you can usually get a used one a couple hundred dollars cheaper on Ebay.
01-26-2007, 02:55 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: montreal/quebec /canada
Posts: 80
RE: Sauer 202 classic or ss?
ORIGINAL: Jackson Bowner
I have 3 Sauers. A Model 90 .300 Win Mag, a Model 200 .30.06 with an extra .270 barrel, and a 202 in .300 Win Mag. They're tack drivers and probably the smoothest bolt there is! I don't own a synthetic...mine are all deluxe grade wood. I just love a pretty wood, but I am sure you would get the same quality from a sythetic/stainless gun. However, the synthetics seem to be harder to sell. I think most people who spend a lot for a gun also like wood. I watch Sauers sell on gunbroker.com all the time and this seems to be the trend. Make sure you break the barrel in correctly for future accuracy. This is one potential problem with a used gun. Not knowing if the barrel was broken in correctly. Good luck, I am sure you will love shooting a Sauer. While you're looking at a top notch gun, you might want to look at a Shepherd scope for it. That's what I have on all my Sauers. If you're patient, you can usually get a used one a couple hundred dollars cheaper on Ebay.
I have 3 Sauers. A Model 90 .300 Win Mag, a Model 200 .30.06 with an extra .270 barrel, and a 202 in .300 Win Mag. They're tack drivers and probably the smoothest bolt there is! I don't own a synthetic...mine are all deluxe grade wood. I just love a pretty wood, but I am sure you would get the same quality from a sythetic/stainless gun. However, the synthetics seem to be harder to sell. I think most people who spend a lot for a gun also like wood. I watch Sauers sell on gunbroker.com all the time and this seems to be the trend. Make sure you break the barrel in correctly for future accuracy. This is one potential problem with a used gun. Not knowing if the barrel was broken in correctly. Good luck, I am sure you will love shooting a Sauer. While you're looking at a top notch gun, you might want to look at a Shepherd scope for it. That's what I have on all my Sauers. If you're patient, you can usually get a used one a couple hundred dollars cheaper on Ebay.
I got the Conquest 4.5x14x44 scope for it, and the sauer QD rings for it should be good for my purpose.
Thank you
Elmer
01-27-2007, 05:50 AM
#6
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jackson, Michigan
Posts: 381
RE: Sauer 202 classic or ss?
Elmer, I use a technique similar to what I am about to copy and paste below. Different people have different techniques, but they are all similar to this one. Sometimes they shoot several shots between swabs. The important thing is to get the copper fouling out and that means swab, swab, swab with a chemical bore cleaner to get the copper out (I use Shooters Choice). It is always easier when the barrel is warm so even after you have broken your gun in, it is always easier to clean at the range. Here is one suggested cleaning formatt. Search Google for something like "breaking in a barrel" for other ideas:
1.Before taking any shots, put 3-4 patches of solvent (Butch's Bore Shine or Shooters Choice) down the barrel.
2.Let the last application soak 2 minutes.
3.Dry patch the barrel.
4.Wet-patch with Sweets copper solvent twice, being sure the entire barrel is wet. If the patch is too tight or not well soaked with Sweets you may miss moistening some spots in the barrel.
5.Let second application of Sweets soak 5 minutes.
6.Dry patch, noticing the blue streaks on the patch.
7.Fire a single shot.
8.Repeat steps 1-7 until the blue copper color on the patch is dramatically reduced. Your barrel is then broken in.
9.Once you have a clean patch, follow by putting a patch moistened with gun oil down the barrel. Seldom can you break in a barrel with fewer than 10 cleaning/firing cycles, but it should not take more than 25 unless you are working with larger calibers. Note: The use of brushes is fine in everyday cleaning, but not in the barrel break in process. If you use a brush, the copper reading will be coming from the brush rather than from the barrel itself.
BREAKING IN A RIFLE BARREL
Machining marks which can fill up with copper when the gun is shot are left during the manufacture of rifle barrels. The purpose of breaking in a rifle barrel is to polish or peen these imperfections smooth with the barrel. When a bullet is fired over these marks, it tends to polish the machining marks, but at the same time, copper is caught in the ridges. If you continue to fire bullets down the barrel without cleaning, the barrel will continue to foul (collect copper). Fouled barrels do not shoot as well as clean barrels. With that in mind, here is a recommended method for breaking in a barrel.1.Before taking any shots, put 3-4 patches of solvent (Butch's Bore Shine or Shooters Choice) down the barrel.
2.Let the last application soak 2 minutes.
3.Dry patch the barrel.
4.Wet-patch with Sweets copper solvent twice, being sure the entire barrel is wet. If the patch is too tight or not well soaked with Sweets you may miss moistening some spots in the barrel.
5.Let second application of Sweets soak 5 minutes.
6.Dry patch, noticing the blue streaks on the patch.
7.Fire a single shot.
8.Repeat steps 1-7 until the blue copper color on the patch is dramatically reduced. Your barrel is then broken in.
9.Once you have a clean patch, follow by putting a patch moistened with gun oil down the barrel. Seldom can you break in a barrel with fewer than 10 cleaning/firing cycles, but it should not take more than 25 unless you are working with larger calibers. Note: The use of brushes is fine in everyday cleaning, but not in the barrel break in process. If you use a brush, the copper reading will be coming from the brush rather than from the barrel itself.
03-02-2007, 06:44 PM
#9
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location:
Posts: 546
RE: Sauer 202 classic or ss?
It is possibly the finest production rifle I have ever shot. Truly beautiful and accurate like all get out. The wood on the one I shot was about the best I have seen. Smooth action. I prefer the classic wood stocked one. If you are going to get a fine European gun, why would you not go classic? I have seen the regular one at around 1200-1500 bucks but thye classic deluxe is over $3K. Go to outdoorlife.com and look up gear reviews under rifles. The deluxe won editors choice in the year it came out.
