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Arrow Question

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Old 04-06-2006, 01:06 PM
  #1  
Spike
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Default Arrow Question

I jist go my new bow in today! It's a HORTON real tree explorer 175. It came with 4 easton xx75 2219 arrows. Question # 1, is this the best arrow for my bow or should I shoot carbon and Question # 2, is the 1/2 moon nocks better then the flat nocks? Thanks for all the help in advances
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Old 04-06-2006, 04:55 PM
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Dnk
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Default RE: Arrow Question

Sorry I don't know but I am surprised no one else give you any info. This post should give you another chance at an answer.

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Old 04-06-2006, 05:10 PM
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Default RE: Arrow Question

Moeskeeter, I shoot stock Horton Aluminum bolts that they sell in bulk. They may not be the bestbolt, but they are fairly consistent in weight and I know I can get more in a hurry if I need them.

I can keep a pretty tight grouping at 20 yards even off handed, IMHO its all in how you practice and what you practice with.

Personally I like the halfmoon knocks, but others have noted that they prefer theflat. There may be a reason to shoot one or the other but I am not aware of it.

Hope this helps you, God Bless!!
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:48 PM
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Dnk
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Default RE: Arrow Question

If I were you I would stick to what the xbow came with untill you become proficient. I have been shooting xbows for 10 years??? and still have not swtiched over. I am more concerned about minute of death rather than minute of angle accuracy. That doesn't mean that aluninum isn't really accurate at all but I think awshucks has done a bit of research. PM him. I think that you should experiment with different shafts as well as tip weight. I do not have a stinking clue about moon nocks. Ask The Squirrel.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:27 PM
  #5  
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Default RE: Arrow Question

moeskeeter
,,,,, I can tell you from test i did last September, that carbon will fly straighter then the aluminum. I have two Barnett Quad 300's. I set up form a bench and measured off 10 yards to be very sure of the distance. I was shooting from a bench. The Aluminum flew higher. The carbons flew straighter. Reference the 2nd picture below.

The 1st picture is a 10 yards shot from one of my treestands. The decoy is 10 yards out from the base of the tree and I am 18 feet up in the stand. The aluminum bolts are in the ground on the other side of the decoy. Those are carbon bolts in the decoy.

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Old 04-06-2006, 07:35 PM
  #6  
Dnk
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Default RE: Arrow Question

Moxie, how much straighter does the carbon fly, I cannot see from the picture.
Are you saying that the aluninum bolts passed through when you say that they are on the other side of the dec?
Looking at the picture they look equally accurate, but then again, I'm not there.
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Old 04-06-2006, 08:08 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: Arrow Question

i personally shoot the half moon nocks with the 2219's. i shoot a horton 150 legend and i'm probbaly the best shot herebut seriously i havent put any broadheads thru it but i am shooting the 100 grain bullet tips off of mine. i can hit a flys wing wong at 20 yardsi shoot the carbons just because i dont want to take a chance bending them. i have been told by the guy at gander mountain who is a dedicated horton shooter to use the carbon goldtips for the tenpoint. but i'm stickin with my good ol carbon striker MX
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Old 04-07-2006, 04:24 AM
  #8  
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Default RE: Arrow Question

Various xbow makers use moon nocks due to the type of triggers and string holding devices. Yer best bet is to go w/ what they advise. I'm real happy w/ 20" Gold Tip Lazer II's w/ EPOXIED brass inserts. 431 gr. w/ 100 gr. points.
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Old 04-07-2006, 08:49 AM
  #9  
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Default RE: Arrow Question

As far as arrows go - it's usually a personal preference whether to use aluminums or carbons. The aluminums usually (not always) weigh just a little bit more giving them a little more punchwhen the hit an animal,but they need to be checked for straightness before & after shots. The aluminums are generally cheaper & if you have an arrow straightner they are more durable since you can fix most of the small bends. As far as carbons go, they are said to be "either straight or broken". Thats mostly true - I have found some carbon shafts with imperfections & they will not spin true. When using a hard target...Block, Glendale Buck, etc. the carbons get beat up bad. When removing the arrow from the target alot of guys will squeeze the shaft and damage will occur-especially below the fletching. Also, I've had inserts stay inside the targets-the glue will not hold and pulling the shaft out will keep that insert wedged inside the target.

On the issue of flat vs. moon nocks-the manufacturer normally knows best. Years ago on my first crossbow-a Horton, the recommendation was flat caps. Nowdays, the recommendation id for the moon nocks for most of the Horton crossbows. The reason the "moon" is there is for string alignment. Thebows that need the string to line up in a certain area need the moon nock. Shooting flat nocks out of this type of crossbow will generally have poorer arrow flight.


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Old 04-07-2006, 09:45 AM
  #10  
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Default RE: Arrow Question

Excals explanation on flat vs. moon nocks: If the "fingers" holding the string back pivot above the arrow on the deck, the string is pushed down on firing. If the pivot is below the above, there is a tendancy for the string to ride up [briefly] which is why those bows use the moon nocks.

There was a big posting on another forum, which I can't find btw, where a guy that worked for a wheel xbow co. explained all the different triggers that co. used, and which models had the better designed systems.

Not to sound like a salesman, but Excal uses the same trigger unit on all their models. Their latest sales literature I recently got w/ an order claims that they have less than 1% warranty claims. I think you'll all agree, no matter what you shoot, that's a pretty good thing.

When I replaced my alum inserts w/ brass, I used two-part epoxy, and haven't left an insert w/ tip in a target yet. And, the order I got was a pair of Danny Miller's arrow-pulling pliers. Best $11.00 I ever spent. Treat yourselves!!
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