Is 1 inch DIAMETER enough?
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 321
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From: PA Sask CAN
I recently bought some Sonic 125's, they look like a very tough and well built broadhead. Trouble is they also look pretty small.
There are quite a few small diameter heads out there right now Boss Bullet, Sonic , and Rocket Ultimate Steel. Has anyone had( or heard of) lack of blood trail or lost animals due to smaller wound channel.
http://americanbroadhead.com/
There are quite a few small diameter heads out there right now Boss Bullet, Sonic , and Rocket Ultimate Steel. Has anyone had( or heard of) lack of blood trail or lost animals due to smaller wound channel.
http://americanbroadhead.com/
#2
I cannot speak from a vast amount of experience with this issue though I was able to use one of the smaller cutting diameter heads on the market (Rocket Ultimate Steel) to take a nice doe this past season. I had no problem with the blood trail or recovering the deer. It is a fine little head in my opinion.
I have also recently had the chance to get a sample of the Sonic head you made reference to and plan on trying it out shortly. I do sincerely think that the new style of smaller, replacement blade broadheads provide an excellent alternative to some of the other choices out there.
I have also recently had the chance to get a sample of the Sonic head you made reference to and plan on trying it out shortly. I do sincerely think that the new style of smaller, replacement blade broadheads provide an excellent alternative to some of the other choices out there.
#3
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,038
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From: Brampton Ontario Canada
Has anyone had( or heard of) lack of blood trail or lost animals due to smaller wound channel.
However don't be mislead about the cutting diameter of the smaller broadheads--the entrance wound isn't very alarming--but I can tell you the 'exit' laceration is a different story--quite a nasty wound.
Nevertheless, the smaller heads do get the job done, the SteelHead expandables and the Slick Trick fixed blades are two of the smaller heads I've used, both of them with good success.
Put that arrow where's it's supposed to go and that animal will not go far from your stand.
#4
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 321
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From: PA Sask CAN
I will be using them on Moose (I only shoot 27 inch draw at 75 pounds) by using these heads I am pretty sure can extend my shooting range out to 50-60 yards. In the past I always limited myself to inside of 40 yards to insure passthrough shot.
Got a passsthrough on large bull 2 years ago at 20 yards with Wasp Hammer SST 125. 1 blade on the Wasp was rolled over and another was dulled pretty good. Contacted ribs on way in and out.
Got a passsthrough on large bull 2 years ago at 20 yards with Wasp Hammer SST 125. 1 blade on the Wasp was rolled over and another was dulled pretty good. Contacted ribs on way in and out.
#6
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 321
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From: PA Sask CAN
If I can keep my groups tighter than 5 inchs at 50 yards I will not hestitate to take a 55 yard shot at a bull moose. They do not react to the shot like a deer and the kill zone is 20 inches.
Not a problem for me...
Not a problem for me...
#7
Fork Horn
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 322
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From: Bismarck ND USA
I use the Rocket Ultimate Steel 100 gr heads. I was concerned about the smaller diameter cutting surface at first but I love those heads now. They fly exactly like field points for me and group very well. That, to me, is more important than making a big hole...I would rather be more precise with shot placement.
#8
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 145
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From: Sheridan, Wyoming
If your going to shoot a moose I would go to an 1and 1/4 inch head..The other thing with moose is that you should easyily get within 40 yards of a moose..I've stalked within 10 yards of moose just to see how close I could get while elk hunting..Thats part of the game right???See how close you can get.. Good luck.
#9
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 321
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From: PA Sask CAN
They have listed some of their clients on the website with kills on Moose and Caribou(with the Sonic 125) and I think Rocket has pictures of Hippo's and Rhino's taken with there Ultimate Steel.
One thing you have to remember is that with a larger diameter head 1 blade is surely to contact ribs on the way in thus dulling it to the point where it would not cut an artery.
Like I said before the Wasp Hammer SST I used 2 years ago on a large bull had 1 blade rolled and another dulled quite bad. At best I had 1 good blade, 1 that was so-so and 1 that was almost useless.
Like Rangerstud said, "shot palcement is the key" if you do not hit him right it doesn't matter if you broadhead is 1" or 1 3/16".
One thing you have to remember is that with a larger diameter head 1 blade is surely to contact ribs on the way in thus dulling it to the point where it would not cut an artery.
Like I said before the Wasp Hammer SST I used 2 years ago on a large bull had 1 blade rolled and another dulled quite bad. At best I had 1 good blade, 1 that was so-so and 1 that was almost useless.
Like Rangerstud said, "shot palcement is the key" if you do not hit him right it doesn't matter if you broadhead is 1" or 1 3/16".
#10
ORIGINAL: elkcrazedfrk
If your going to shoot a moose I would go to an 1and 1/4 inch head..The other thing with moose is that you should easyily get within 40 yards of a moose..I've stalked within 10 yards of moose just to see how close I could get while elk hunting..Thats part of the game right???See how close you can get.. Good luck.
If your going to shoot a moose I would go to an 1and 1/4 inch head..The other thing with moose is that you should easyily get within 40 yards of a moose..I've stalked within 10 yards of moose just to see how close I could get while elk hunting..Thats part of the game right???See how close you can get.. Good luck.




