buckeye

email it to me at [email protected] and I will host it and post it for you.

DavidPaul007

Thanks Buckeye! It actually was pretty easy to do ...excuse the wardrobe, I was about to hit the sack

buckeye

You don't want to go any longer than where you are at right now.

Your bow arm looks full extended now. and you are anchoring behind your ear. You look 1/2 to an inch to long right now from the pic. Closer to an inch IMO.

What DL are you shooting right now in the pic?

That is also a pretty long D loop. It could be shortened in half easily.

Blodg

David, what is the draw length of the bow in the picture? I think that draw length looks to be at least an inch or more too long. But it does depend on what you want to do. For 3D shooting many people learn to shoot with a draw length that is a little too long because you will lose around 12 fps for each inch of draw length. But if speed is not the primary concern and utmost accuracy is then most people are better off anchoring with the string near the corner of their mouth and the bow arm should not be completely locked straight.

You are not the only one, I shoot about 26 1/2 to 27" inche draw length, but before I knew what I was doing I was shooting 29 or 30 inches. I shot OK back then but it was many years ago and I can't even imagine trying to shoot it now.

goldtip46

well looks like your draw length is ro lons---a wing span of 65 dont measure out to 27-27 1/2.looks like you are a inch to a inch and a half to long.anchor with the string coming to the corner of your mouth and you will see that your peep has to come down quite a bit.this will help you get a much better release using the proper muscles.

DavidPaul007

Thanks for all the input. I bought this bow knowing nothing about shooting, and I was set up at an archery shop with it...sounds like I was the victim of that shop trying to make a sell, as this was the shortest draw bow that had in stock (now they have gone out of business)

To answer the questions about draw length, This is a 26" arrow, I measured the arrow from they valley in the knock to the point it comes back too when I'm at full draw--26".

This bow cannot shorten the draw length anymore, and from what I'm hearing it sounds like I need to either get that loop shortened as much as possible, or to just take it off all together.

Paul L Mohr

Draw length looks pretty long to me as well. However you still have decent form. You bow shoulder is dropped down and you are not leaning back at full draw. That's a plus. If you want to see how it feels or looks you don't have to take the loop off, just put he realease under it. And you should never draw a bow with a release and not have an arrow knocked. You asking for the bow to explode if the release lets go, especially when your finger is near the trigger! Plus the bow feels different with an arrow in it as well.

You also might want to consider getting a release that is adjustable for length. You want your finger pretty deep into the trigger when you use it. Like in the crease of the first joint, not on the tip or pad of the finger. Most people use a release that is too long. This effects your perceived draw, just like a loop does.

Pretty much try to get the bow just the way it is but with the first knuckle on the back of your hand (index finger) right behind your jaw bone or touching it. This is a very repeatable anchor point. And have the string touch the tip of your nose lightly if you can.

Your bow arm looks like many target archers, but for hunting you might want a bit more bend to it, which means a shorter draw yet.

And it's hard to tell from your pic but your grip looks a bit deep as well. Try having your knuckles at a 45 degree angle to the riser when you set your grip. The pressure should be on the pad of your thumb, not in your palm. Also relax your hand. You should shoot with a relaxed grip, not an open one. Whith an open hand you have to force it open which means you are using muscles and putting tension in your hand. It should be relaxed. Draw like that if you want, but then let your fingers relax and lay across the riser.

I would at least suggest taking the loop off. You should actually be able to shoot quite well like that if you keep your anchor point and form consistant. I started out wrong as well with the string on the side of my nose and my hand far enough back I could loop my thumb around my neck (that's a no no, don't do it).

Shortening your draw will feel odd at first, you will have to get used to it and it will take a little time. Also keep in mind when you take the string loop off you may have to re tune your bow. As well as change your peep location, which looks off as well.

To set your peep you should draw the bow with your eyes closed to the correct anchor point, then open your eyes. The peep should be right there, lined up. If it isn't move the peep, don't adjust your anchor to find the peep. Many people get bows with the peep tied in already and just use them that way without moving them to the correct position. This throws your anchor and form off making aiming even harder.

Good luck, Post another pic after you dink with it if you want.

Paul

DavidPaul007

Ok, this time I have an arrow in it, but outside!

Sorry about the sun in the background, didn't realize that until I got inside to look at the pic, but you can see the anchor point. Here I've attached the release directly to the string under the string loop.

My peep would have to be moved down a good two inches with the loop out, but as you can see, the anchor point isn't as far back.

I'm a bit confused about how you say to hold the bow. I know I shouldn't grip it hard while shooting, so I try to have my hand relaxed as I shoot, but after that, I don't know what I should do.

Paul L Mohr

That looks better to me, anyone else? If you are talking about what I ment by the grip I will try to explain better.

Do you know where you life line in your palm is? It's the line that starts in the middle of the bottom of your hand (at your wrist) and curves around up towards your index finger. Basically deviding your thumb from the rest of your hand. You want the riser or grip of the bow to be too the right of that line.

Or if you have shot a pistol, you know how the grip is in the web of your hand at the top and deeper into your palm and the butt, you don't want that with a bow. You want the pressure to be on the pad of your thumb in your palm, not the middle of your hand. This helps reduce torque when you grip the bow. This is why I suggested putting the knuckles of your hand at a 45 degree angle to the riser instead of up and down when you set your grip. This makes it harder to put the riser on the inside of your palm.

Your whole body should be relaxed at full draw. Only enough tension to keep the bow from collapsing. Look at really good archers, they look kind of lazy at full draw. Your posture shouldn't be real stiff and rigid.

What we can see in that picture I think you look pretty good actually. Your head is nice and straight, your bow shoulder is low and draw arm is high, and your hand looks more relaxed then before. I don't think my form is that good to be honest.

Somebody with more experience may not agree with me though. I am not an expert shooter, nor am I a coach. I only know what I have read and seen and what works for me.

If someone with more shooting experience than me tells you something different go with it.

Good luck and have fun.

Paul

Paul L Mohr

Nice property by the way

Paul