mlaubner

That's good advice TFOX, I am going to keep practicing from 20yds sitting and kneeling and then move back 5yds at a time to get to 30-35yds. I just want to make certain that I can keep all my shots in a 3" circle at all distances.

Len in Maryland

While many different positions should be practiced, the one that I practice most is the sitting position. It is the one that meets my needs moreso since I learned to shoot with either hand.

ijimmy touched my nerve when he said:

Quote:

...practice shooting from the sitting position as its a good thing to know when they sneek in on you , the less movement you make the better...

I encourage everyone to try shooting with either hand. It opens up so many more opportunities and limits your movement when necessary.

MT elk addict

Here are a couple ways that my neighbors and myself practice shooting in different postions. We have a couple games that we play with our bows. One is called BIG BULL, this is just like HORSE in basketball. The first person shoots at a 3-D target or bag target from an unknown distance in the position of their choice and they have to hit in the vitals or the bullseye and if they do the other people have to follow and make the shot in the same postion. If you miss, you get a letter. The other game is 21, we play this with 3-D targets, the first person shoots and has to hit in the vitals, and if they do the other people follow. If you hit the 8 ring you get 1 point, 10 ring 2 points and 12 ring 3 points. First one to 21 wins. These games are fun and give you good practice in different positions and at different distances.

Mykey

You never know from what angle a deer will approach your stand so it's always a good ideal to practice different shooting positions. Shooting from some of those positions will also let you know real quick if you're trying to pull to much draw weight.

mlaubner

MT. cool games...
Here's one I came up with to try and make my "Block" target last a little longer, as I was shooting through it after a couple of months...

Archers Tic-Tac-Toe

Objective:
Score three boxes in a row either horizontally, vertically or diagonally.
The first player to do so wins that round.

Rules:
1. This is a 2 player game.
2. Distance to target is 20yards.
3. Each player may use only 6 arrows
4. Scoring area is 4½ x 4½ inches with a centered 2 inch bull’s-eye for each of the 9 squares. The nine squares are divided by a ½ inch line which serves as a neutral zone. Arrows shot into this area receive a “no score”.
5. Flip a coin to determine the first shooter.
6. Shooting is done in rotation from this point on.
7. Any bow set-up and any arrows are legal.

Scoring:
1. Arrows must be entirely in the square to count.
2. Stealing a square is possible, if a square occupied by the opponent’s arrow is not in the bull’s eye and you shoot your arrow into the bull’s eye. If the square is occupied by an arrow initially shot into the bull’s eye, no stealing is possible.
3. Any arrow “breaking the line” of the bull’s eye counts as a bull’s eye.
4. The round is finished when either player achieves a Tic-Tac-Toe.
5. If both players shoot all 6 arrows and no Tic-Tac-Toe is achieved, the game restarts with “no score” for that round.
6. Each Tic-Tac-Toe is worth 1 point.
7. A Tic-Tac-Toe scored with all bull’s eyes is worth 2 points.
8. A match is 7 points.

AllenRead

Len,

That's a good idea to be able to shoot with either hand.

If I recall correctly, you shoot with a wrist release. While hunting, how do you switch the release to the other hand without a lot of movement?

Thanks,
Allen

c903

Len:

Just for clarification.

When you suggest that a person learn to shoot with either hand ,and that doing so allows one to shoot one certain bow with either hand should a situation during hunting warrant it, are you meaning to shoot the same compound bow (right bow with left hand, left bow with right hand) with the opposite hand and that this can be efficiently and accurately done in the field?

Len in Maryland

Allen: Yes, I do use a wrist releases. Scott Rhinos to be exact. I have a release on each hand at all times in the woods. The releases stay attached to the grip of my bow and I put them on when I get settled in the tree. I have also stalked with them on; but, stalking will usually not demand this tactic.

Having to get my bow off the holder, turn 90+ degrees, and come to full draw cost me one of the biggest bucks I've ever seen in the woods last year. He was upon me (about 8-10 yards) from the rear before I noticed him. I had to be VERY careful/quiet getting into position for the shot. By the time I got to full draw, he was 30 yards into the thicket. Due to the brush and considering it was a 'going away' shot, I let him walk. He's still there because I saw him later in the season.

I have been shooting with either hand for about 3-4 years. It was a fluke that I one day decided to see how I could shoot my left-handed bow right-handed. What I found is that there is sometimes a parallax that requires an adjustment. When you shoot, say a right-handed bow left-handed, your point of impact may be a few inches 'out'. In other words, impact to the right of the aiming point on a right-handed bow. All you have to do is learn, when shooting with the opposite hand, is to aim 'out' with your pin to compensate. The bow I have right now is the first one ever that hits in exactly the same spot. The only bow that presents an almost impossible situation in this regard is the Hoyt 'Tec' series. The 'Tec' part of the riser lays on your wrist and hurts.

I must say, however, that a very neutral 'grip' is necessary. You should practice this a lot and become very confident before venturing out for game.

On the last day of the season, Davidmil and another hunting buddy, Rob, went into the woods on a cold day. Rob told me that he really needed meat to fill the freezer. Because it was so cold, and Davidmil forgot his boot warmers, Dave got down to drive deer. He drove 18 deer my way and the only shot I had was 45 yards behind the big tree I chose. There was NO WAY that I could get a shot left-handed. I proceeded to shift my bow to the other hand and executed a great shot that dropped the deer almost instantly. I would NOT have had a shot had I not shifted hands.

The next time you stop by the shop, I'd be glad to help you learn this technique. I'll never forget the time I got Joella Bates to try it. She screamed so loud when she shot that the other PROs around thought I was being bad.

Bulzeye

It is a good idea to practice, at least occassionally, from different positions.

Last year I learned how important it is....twice!!!

I blew a chance at a doe that came over a rise quickly on a trail that would have taken her right by me.
I was on the ground following the trail and she surprised me. She was so close, I had to freeze the instant I saw her. She saw me as I raised my bow to ready myself in case she gave me a broadside shot. She moved off to my right, and I couldn't even draw since I had stopped in mid-stride with my right leg forward.

Then, with the buck I did get from a treestand, I hit him high and too far back because he was off to my right as well. When he came out of the bushes, he was only 15 yards from me. Again I had to freeze. I was able to draw unseen, but executed a less-than-perfect shot and torqued it bad. If it hadn't hit him in the spine, which allowed me a follow up DL, he'd be hurt or dying slowly, and I'd be feeling like hanging up my bow.

Now, I make sur eto be ready by practicing from different positions, and putting more thought into how I place my feet in case I get caught with a deer appearing out of nowhere. (They do that, you know)