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Broadhead thoughts?? Mechanical/Fixed?? Brand?

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Broadhead thoughts?? Mechanical/Fixed?? Brand?

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Old 08-06-2010, 05:10 PM
  #51  
Nontypical Buck
 
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why must there be 50 threads ever fall on this subject?

There are some kinds of broadheads that are simply designed to penetrate better than other.

There are some kinds of broadheads that are simply designed to hold up stronger better than other.

Read Dr Ashby reports, they're easily found on the net, they'll enlighten you on how the arrows and heads you choose is so vitally important.

Choose the absolute BEST penetrating setup you can possibly get, and if ever a shot goes not as its expected to? THAT is when how good your choices are matters.
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:18 PM
  #52  
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I shoot both muzzy 4 blade and slick tricks, cant tell any difference other than the slick tricks blades being a little more durable.
With these blades i dont care which way the deers facing, ive smashed through quartering too shots with muzzy's exiting the hind leg. Talk about a deer not going far.

I know one mech not to use, its those cheapo eastmans you find at walmart. Had major failures with those. They crumple like a volvo front end and stop 2" in a deer.
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:15 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by zrexpilot
I shoot both muzzy 4 blade and slick tricks, cant tell any difference other than the slick tricks blades being a little more durable.
With these blades i dont care which way the deers facing, ive smashed through quartering too shots with muzzy's exiting the hind leg. Talk about a deer not going far.

I know one mech not to use, its those cheapo eastmans you find at walmart. Had major failures with those. They crumple like a volvo front end and stop 2" in a deer.

Are you serious?

If you are I hope you're not educating the youth on how to hunt.
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:26 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by annika3
Are you serious?

If you are I hope you're not educating the youth on how to hunt.
your prolly a mech. shooter and i can understand why your afraid of a quartering too shot.
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:00 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by zrexpilot
your prolly a mech. shooter and i can understand why your afraid of a quartering too shot.
i've gotta say most bowhunters that i know are pretty afraid of taking a quartering too shot, you can sneak it in front of thr shoulder, or try right behind for a lung and liver shot.... but why wouldn't you wait for a better opportunity at a better, easier shot.


but as far as fixed/mechs... they both work GREAT if you make a good shot. i've used both and i use mechs right now, the G5 tekkan's
shot 3 deer last season with one head, all 2/3 pass-thru's, but the last deer was a 4.5 yrs old buck and i hit spine pretty hard.

i'm planning on trying some Grim reapers this year as well.

mechanicals have smaller profile in-flight so they tend not to plane as much as fixed, but they could fail to open, lose a blade...etc.

no matter what your using... even if you were to use a field point... if place right will kill a deer very quickly.
that being said i feel more confident in making that "perfect" shot with mech, because im never worried about planing.

both work great, try them both and decide for yourself.

just my $0.02
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:46 PM
  #56  
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I shoot both muzzy 4 blade and slick tricks, cant tell any difference other than the slick tricks blades being a little more durable.
With these blades i dont care which way the deers facing, ive smashed through quartering too shots with muzzy's exiting the hind leg. Talk about a deer not going far.
With the energy and momentum that my arrows are carrying I too will take quartering too shots and put the arrow right through the shoulder with out hesitation.

To qualify why I would do this... I am shooting a Bowtech destroyer 340 and using Easton axis arrows with brass inserts tipped with 100 grain Slick Tricks mags for a total arrow weight of 515 grains and shooting them at 275 fps. for 87 foot pounds of KE. I don't worry about bones on deer sized animals.

Obviously i do not reccomend this to those shooting low poundage bows, ultra light arrows, big mechanicals, etc... but if you are lucky enough to have a longer draw length (mines 30"), shoot a bow that generates good speeds (310+ IBO) use a mid to heavy weight arrow (450+ grains) and use a top notch fixed blade broadhead that breaks bones it's not a problem.
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Old 08-07-2010, 07:18 PM
  #57  
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g5 montecs a solid one piece broadhead with thick blades you canot break this on an animal
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Old 08-07-2010, 07:42 PM
  #58  
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big bulls has some knowledge on this - light arrows, mechanical broadheads and any shot other than perfect will suck for you as a bowhunter

KE is irrelevant really, and used my manufacturers to sell products, did you know?

did you know frontal shots are some of the most lethal in all of hunting if you can make the shot? I had long, long debates with a bowsite guy and you know what? he's right

when shot's go bad, you DO NOT want to be shooting light arrows and mechanical heads


with high energy/momentum combinations, getting the arrow into the vitals is a the key, and broadside/frontal/quarter away/quarter to ....... if you can make the shot, take it, make it and your designed to penetrate setup will not fail you

did you know, the most common shot taken that results in lost/wounded animals is the broadside shot? why would that be if its such an excellent shot? answer - because shots go bad, they just do, your equipment better be ready to help you when they do
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:26 PM
  #59  
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You guys taking those quartering too shots keep telling yourself it's alright and that it's a good shot to take and sooner or later you'll run into problems, even with 87 foot lbs of KE.

It is NOT a shot I would bragg about and certainly wouldn't go around telling other bowhunters it's a good shot to take.
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Old 08-08-2010, 01:50 AM
  #60  
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i generally use rage 2 blades , however , i do keep three blood runners in my quiver as well , i split them up three and three it covers any hunting apps
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