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Broadhead thoughts?? Mechanical/Fixed?? Brand?

Old 08-05-2010, 06:08 AM
  #41  
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I love my Muzzy 3 blade. But like everyone is saying, shot placement is critical. Plus the Price for Muzzy's and I can change my blades for cheap. When I start having problems with good shots not doing the job, then I will change. I think some of the, " no pass throughs " could be related to not shoot enough poundage. Thats just my opinion. I'm sure not everyone will agree....
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:33 AM
  #42  
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You know I shot muzzy's and thunderheads for over 2 decades. I loved the price. They were always razor sharp. But I hated that out of a box of 6, I might get 4 that spun perfectly. Hated that the they were so easy to damage. last straw was the blades would come off easily after hitting bone, and I was butchering a deer and found one of those blades in my hand. I switched to slicktricks.
 
Old 08-05-2010, 07:15 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by bigcountry
I switched to slicktricks.
I don't think there is any better value for the broadhead than a Slick Trick. TOUGH, sharp, easy to re-sharpen, and almost indestructible. If you do break a blade, they're as easy to replace as anything out there.
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:49 AM
  #44  
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It drives me crazy that people think that they need a huge mechanical to kill a deer.I've killed somewhere around 15 deer with wasp jackhammers and rocket sidewinders.I killed every deer but it was a rare occurance when I didn't ruin a broadhead.I've also killed deer with muzzys and wasp's and never had an issue.i will agree that I did heave a hard time getting some of the muzzys to spin strait.For the past several years,I've killed over 30 deer with slicktricks.I've only had one deer run out of sight,always get a passthrough and haven't ruined one head.In fact,two years ago,I killed a gobbler and 4 deer with the same head.

I read an article where Terry Drury was praising the rage heads because they no longer have to track deer 300 yards.I've lost track of how many deer I've killed but I've never had to track a deer anywhere near that far if it was fatally hit.In fact,I can't remember one time in the past 30 years where I didn't see or hear the deer crash if it was hit in the vitals,regardless of the bn being used.

To me the perfect broadhead is one that is reasonably priced, manufactured to tight tolerances,is sharp,penetrates well and holds together.A number of good fixed heads fit that description.I've yet to find a mechanical that does.You don't need to throw a friggin axe through an animal to kill it.The marketing hype is out of control today.

I'm on a committe that gets called out to recover wounded deer in a controlled hunt.I've seen deer shot with BH imaginable,iclude huge mechanicals.The story is the same every time.A good shot drops them within a very short distance everytime.A poor shot results in a tough tracking job unless the hunter backs out immediately.Two years ago,I helped recover 5 gut shot deer.In every case,the hunter left the area immediately and we came back the next morning.All of the deer were found the next morning within 100 yards of where they were shot and 3 of the five were still alive.One of them was shot with a rage.Shot placement and common sense ensures quick recoveries,not what you have on the end of your arrow.
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:14 PM
  #45  
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RAGE BROADHEADS
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:51 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by RidgeFACTOR
RAGE BROADHEADS
I own some of these Rage 2 blades. I'm just scared for some reason the broadhead is not going to open like its suppose to??? My best friend owns an outfitting business in Montana and he said out of all the antelope and deer they lost last year 90% were shot with mechanicals. I know this isn't always the case but why take the chance it might on a giant?? Convince me they are the real deal if you favor mechanicals.
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Old 08-06-2010, 05:39 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by NEBRbruiser
I own some of these Rage 2 blades. I'm just scared for some reason the broadhead is not going to open like its suppose to??? My best friend owns an outfitting business in Montana and he said out of all the antelope and deer they lost last year 90% were shot with mechanicals. I know this isn't always the case but why take the chance it might on a giant?? Convince me they are the real deal if you favor mechanicals.
It's just my opinion, but I'd have to say that if you need to be convinced then they're not for you because you'll probably never have full confidence in them and confidence in your equipment is critical.
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:16 AM
  #48  
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After 10 years of using Nap thunder heads with great success I switched to Nap spitfire I shot a buck and never found Him My Dad shot Him over a month later On opener of gun season . That was enough for me I switched back to thunder heads and then when I bougth a new bow I could not get thunder heads to fly good So I tried MUzzy Mx 4 and have had excellent results with them. I know shot placement is critical but there are many Unknowns when hunting with a bow IMO fixed blades have my vote
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:51 AM
  #49  
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the shot placement is critical as everyone has said. my bow is setup for my muzzy mx3. ive had great success with them. if i was going to go back to mechanicals i would try the NASP Jackhammers. ive had alot of good success with them too. find out what you feel youl be comfortable with and set your bow up for it. good luck man.
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Old 08-06-2010, 01:59 PM
  #50  
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I've killed about 10 deer with jackhammers and had busted blades or ruined ferrules on just about every deer.It never cost me a deer but I can't see using something that unreliable.I got passthroughs most times but penetration was definately compromised on some shots that should have blown right through them.On top of that,the deer didn't die any faster than the ones that I kill with fixed blades.

Lost deer are caused by misplaced shots and in some cases,just poor judgement by the hunter.I see no use for more mechanicals but I wouldn't say that they're the cause of lost deer.I also don't buy the theory that they don't open,usless they're corroded shut.In fact,a much bigger concern of mine is having them open prematurely,which is another thing to worry about and another reason not to use them.

You don't need to shoot a gaping wound through a deer.A good sharp fixed head will kill a deer as fast as any big mechanical.In 2008 I bought a pack of slick trick grizztricks just to try on a late season hunt.These things have four blades and a 1 1/4 inch cut.That's more tissue damage than a rage will create.I killed a doe that winter and the results were exactly the same as every deer I SHOOT WITH STANDARD SLICKTRICKS,MUZZY'S etc.The deer ran 40 yards,stopped,wobbled and fell over.Last year,I used them on the first two deer I shot and the results were the same,a dead deer within 40-60 yards.I used the regular slicktricks the rest of the season to kill three more deer.One doe ran probably 50 yards and another barely made it 20.I rattled in and killed a decent 8 point that actually turned to run and just bulldozed himself under a downfall.He didn't go 10 yards and that was with a smaller head.The wounds from those grizztricks were impressive and gorey.It looked like the deer got hit with some type of exposive.Still,they didn't die or drop any faster than the ones shot with smaller heads.Big mechanicals will not kill you any more deer.All they do is empty your wallet faster.

There's a ton of good heads out there.Any sharp broadhead will kill deer fast.If you shoot a well tuned bow and use a strong sharp broadhead you'll kill deer reliably.Personally,I've yet to find a BH that's as consistantly reliable in every category and as reasonably priced as a slick trick but that's just me.There's lot's of good ones out there.Just put them in the right place and back out if you make a questionable shot.That's as complicated as it has to be.
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