krabbiepatty

I currently just clip my release right to my bowstring but I want to go to a string loop. I have been shooting some 3D tourneys and want every edge I can get. I am also trying to pick up some speed on my XT. Currently I shoot a 350 Maxima that is 29 1/2" long with a 100 gr field pt. I have a 30" drawlength on my bow. The poundage on my bow is set at 62lbs. I shot through a chronograph last sat and was shooting 256fps. I want to get in the 280s as the max for my shooting class is 288fps. So what I would like to know is can I add a string loop and still shoot my drawlength comfortably. The bow fits me like a glove now so I may have to buy a 29 1/2" cam but I really want to save that $80 if possible. I am also thinking of buying some Maxima 3D selects and turning my bow up to try and gain some speed. I could probably cut off an inch or so off of my arrow and go to a 75 gr field pt also to gain some speed. I am also shooting a whisker biscuit (which i love for hunting) but am considering buying a drop away for shooting 3D. Any suggestions you guys can think of. What i REALLY want is a new Z7 but Im really trying not to spend that much right now LOL....

BGfisher

The string loop itself will add a little weight to the string so might slow things down about 1-2 fps, but to maintain the same anchor points as yu now have you would have to shorten the draw length (cam) by about 1/2" and this will cost you another 5 fps or so.

Your best bet is to leave the bow's draw length alone. Try choosing new. properly spined arrows that the total weight would equal 5 gr per pound of draw weight.

Clean any accessories off the string that you don't need such as a kisser button and/or a peep using a rubber tube. String silencers are a no-no. Shorten the center serving to about 3", 1 1/2" above and 1 1/2" below the nocking point or there abouts.

It's possible, but no guarantee that a good set of custom string madfe from BCY 8125 could gain as much as 10 fps. Play around with speed nocks on the string, which requires the use of a chrono to find the sweet spot.

Lastly, super tune your bow for the very best arrow flight as a wobbling arrow scrubs speed down range.

When all else fails go buy a bow with a faster IBO rating. The faster the better. You can always find easy ways to slow one down, but it can be a bugger trying to eke the last fps out of a slower bow.

drockw

Nicely said bg. If I were u, and wanted a do all arrow that was fast and still usable for everything, I would look in to the victory vforce hv arrows. Or for just target, x ringer hv's. 350 spine and really light. You'd see 280+ with an xringer hv 350 cut at 29" with a 100gr point. With duravanes setup at that length mine weighed 308gr versus your arrows which probably are 400ish(just guessing here).

Also, they are a fatter shaft and can help to cut lines for 3d and since you said u wanted an edge, you'd be killing 2 birds with one stone.

krabbiepatty

thanks for the suggestions guys...i was wondering why some of those guys were shooting those big fat arrows, now i know

twildasin

Take the mathews string stoppers off and add a meanv or sts string stopper which is closer to the center of the string and u will gain about 10fps for about $40. Never understood why mathews put string stoppers at the cams defeats the purpose! The string still overtravels thus losing speed!

SwampCollie

Big fat arrows are fine and dandy for indoor, but I don't like them outside... you get a crosswind.. and you have more surface to be affected. Plus, unless you are shooting 30 turkey targets, the rings aren't really close enough to have a major impact like they do indoors.

I'd go for a lighter weight, 400 spine shaft with a 60-75gr glue in insert... something like a lightspeed or a flatline or a redline easton (whatever they are calling them this year).

This is of course assuming that you are shooting in open class... if you are shooting in bowhunter... then you ought to be shooting your bowhunting set-up... that is kinda the point.

krabbiepatty

good point, i am shooting in the bowhunter class so maybe i should just stick with what im gonna be hunting with.

nomorewolves

I had a wb, changed to a Rip cord drop away.....LOVE IT

drockw

Hunter class or not, if I'm going to do more than just donate my money to shoot, I will use every legal advantage I can. A high FOC heavy fatshaft has brought me more good than just about anything in the ASA. Even in IBO I pull an occassional ring that I wouldn't have gotten with another shaft...

I've shot my .421" shafts at 90m in the wind and they don't drift as much as you'd think. Although I won't recommend it for distance...

90% of most 3d courses and field courses are in the woods. Not nearly as much crosswind as in fita etc...

I was with your train of thought as well BC until I did it... I have 10 perfectly good Easton a/c/e's just chilling at the house bc I've been using large shafts... Never thought it would be that way, but hey, the scores speak for themselves...

Btw I'm not disagreeing to be argumentative. I know you know your stuff as well, but I think if a shaft is built right, than it will fly...