Choosing arrows....
#13
The number refers to the amount of deflection with a 2# weight hung from the center of the arrow when put between 28" centers.
The higher the number,the more the deflection,meaning weaker.
Too stiff is not your reason for 50 yard groups opening at this point.You aren't THAT stiff.Plus,you most likely still have form and technique issues.But don't worry,50 is a long way and you are new.
The higher the number,the more the deflection,meaning weaker.
Too stiff is not your reason for 50 yard groups opening at this point.You aren't THAT stiff.Plus,you most likely still have form and technique issues.But don't worry,50 is a long way and you are new.
#14
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Grand Forks BC Canada
Posts: 760
The spine of an arrow is the term used to describe its relative stiffness. An arrow needs to be able to flex when shot, since there is considerable energy being imparted to the shaft very suddenly. If you get a chance to see a slow motion video of an arrow being shot, you will see that it flexes or oscillates back and forth numerous times before it finally stabilizes.
Some of the things already mentioned are rules of thumb rather than absolutes. For example, 55/75 may generally be appropriate when shot from bows with poundages in that range. However, other factors will enter into the equation, such as how long the arrows are. A longer arrow will have weaker spine characteristics than the same arrow cut shorter. Also, the way the system works is that 400-rated shafts are, indeed, stiffer than 500's.
As for arrow weight, another rule of thumb is that you should generally not shoot an arrow that is lighter than 5 grains per pound of draw weight (too hard on the bow). 6 or 7 is fine and some shooters prefer heavier than that, especially for hunting. Bear in mind that a heavier arrow will have a slower velocity than a lighter one, and therefore a greater arc in its trajectory.
Beman ICS Hunters have been around for a long time and they're a perfectly adequate arrow. However, more advances have been made since their inception and there's lots of other good arrows out there. So have a good look around and you may find many that you would like.
BTW, it takes a lot of practice to be consistent at 50 yards, perfect bow/arrow combination or not. Just make sure you discover your own realistic limits and stick to them, especially for hunting.
Some of the things already mentioned are rules of thumb rather than absolutes. For example, 55/75 may generally be appropriate when shot from bows with poundages in that range. However, other factors will enter into the equation, such as how long the arrows are. A longer arrow will have weaker spine characteristics than the same arrow cut shorter. Also, the way the system works is that 400-rated shafts are, indeed, stiffer than 500's.
As for arrow weight, another rule of thumb is that you should generally not shoot an arrow that is lighter than 5 grains per pound of draw weight (too hard on the bow). 6 or 7 is fine and some shooters prefer heavier than that, especially for hunting. Bear in mind that a heavier arrow will have a slower velocity than a lighter one, and therefore a greater arc in its trajectory.
Beman ICS Hunters have been around for a long time and they're a perfectly adequate arrow. However, more advances have been made since their inception and there's lots of other good arrows out there. So have a good look around and you may find many that you would like.
BTW, it takes a lot of practice to be consistent at 50 yards, perfect bow/arrow combination or not. Just make sure you discover your own realistic limits and stick to them, especially for hunting.
#15
Now for the confusing part,for whatever reason,there are manufactuers out there that do not list their arrows by spine,such as the PSE arrows and carbon Express.Their numbers are arbitrary and have no correlation to spine and they have the higher number as the stiffer shaft.You have to look up what the actuall deflection is.
With the shafts that are labeled 55/65 or such,they are not always accurate numbers.A 30" draw at 60# can not use the same spine as a 24" draw at 60#.
Your best bet(without the software) is to look at an Easton chart and reference the spine needed,then cross reference to another brand,once you have figured out what their shafts spine at.OR, avoid the confusion and just use an Easton shaft,which are top of the line anyway.
With the shafts that are labeled 55/65 or such,they are not always accurate numbers.A 30" draw at 60# can not use the same spine as a 24" draw at 60#.
Your best bet(without the software) is to look at an Easton chart and reference the spine needed,then cross reference to another brand,once you have figured out what their shafts spine at.OR, avoid the confusion and just use an Easton shaft,which are top of the line anyway.
#16
i plan on buying some eastons off ebay when i get down to 2 arrows in my quiver....i have a few questions however... 1. what if an arrow is too long?? say i shot a 30 inch arrow and im suppose to shoot 29....how would that affect my shot?... 2. what if i got an arrow for 55 to 75 pounds and i only pull back 50...how would that affect me as well?? and 3 is there any 500 spines for 50 lb bows....i can only find 500 or 45/60 but not both....
#17
Cutting an arrow will stiffen the dynamic spine and lengthening it will make it weaker.If the arrow is too long,chances are you need a stiffer spine.
Don't worry about the 45/60 stuff,just look for the spine rating and cut the arrow the right length.
Don't worry about the 45/60 stuff,just look for the spine rating and cut the arrow the right length.
#19
i think i will stick with my 400s until season is over....but after i will probably move up....so a 500 spine with about 7.3 GPI easton would be perfect for me?? the difference in 400 and 500 are the drop per yardage and the stiffness...any others?