Climber phase?
12-24-2008, 08:39 AM
#21
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Central PA
Posts: 2,299
RE: Climber phase?
I used to hate hauling my climber into the woods. Then, I got myself a Lone Wolf climber. Light and compact enough that its a breeze to go through the woods with.
Get a Lone Wolf and forgot those other big bulky stands. Just my opinion of course.
Get a Lone Wolf and forgot those other big bulky stands. Just my opinion of course.
12-24-2008, 08:59 AM
#22
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 899
RE: Climber phase?
Thanks everyone for the comments.
That is the trouble! My climber is the most comfy, and safest stand that own, or have seen.
I may just be tired after carrying it in all season. Just a thought!
That is the trouble! My climber is the most comfy, and safest stand that own, or have seen.
I may just be tired after carrying it in all season. Just a thought!
12-24-2008, 09:52 AM
#23
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 3,612
RE: Climber phase?
I am going to go lightweight next year if I can afford it. Was going to try it this year but things didn't work out. My stand is cumbersome and I have been using climbing stands for at least a decade so yes it does get a little tiresome. I would love to have some property with 15-20 stands set-up and ready to go.
12-24-2008, 10:00 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West MI
Posts: 408
RE: Climber phase?
I like my climber. It's heavier than I would like, but I love the versatitily of it. The properties I hunt offer a lot of trees easy to climb. It's rare I can't find a tree in an area I want to hunt. I'm hoping to pick up a lighter climber before the '09 season.
12-24-2008, 02:14 PM
#25
Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Southeast Central Illinois USA
Posts: 6,969
RE: Climber phase?
Love being able to walk in and climb up to hunt from my hangons, but I love using my climber or hangon and sticks for being mobile. I don't mind carrying my climber(Lone Wolf) at all because it packs flat and carries like a dream.
12-24-2008, 02:57 PM
#26
Typical Buck
Join Date: May 2007
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 957
RE: Climber phase?
I think that if people used a little more common sense then so many people wouldn't "dislike" climbers.
IMO selecting a climber is a little more "complicated" than selecting a ladder or lock on.
1.) Am I going to pack my climber in and out every hunt? - A lot of people complain about their climbers being to heavy. Well, what do you expect when you buy a steel climber that weighs 30lbs? If you are going to pack your climber you should buy a good quality aluminum stand which most are 20lbs and lighter. You also need to buy a stand that is easy to pack. It needs to fit together so it will not clang around while you walk and also be easy enough to unpack and set up making the least amount of noise as possible. Also get a good pair of shoulder straps, the padded ones. You want the stand to be able to "hide" behind your body so it won't get caught on vines and limbs when walking through the woods. Don't get a stand that almost drags the ground or sticks up a foot above your head. Or one that sticks out a foot on both sides of you.
2.) Cliimbers are just like everything else, you pretty much get what you pay for. I like asolid ALL WELDED climber. Not one of the $150 jobs that are just bolted together. A good solid climber is just assecure as a lock onwhen its in the tree.
3.) I think its very important to buy a climber that "fits" you. It's very annoying to use a climber that is too small for your body frame. It is also very annoying to try to shoot a bow out of a climber with a fixed "shooting rail/safety rail" that is too high. Personally, I don't like an open front climber because of the risk of falling out, so I like one with a rail.
4.) Easy of set up. Some climbers use cables and chains while others use solid "rods". Although the solid rods seem like they would be the safest, they are also the noisest and IMO the hardest, and most time consuming to get around the tree and locked in place. The ones with the pins are annoying because you have to worry about dropping the pin in the dark.
I hunt a lot of public land in which I pack my climber in and out every hunt and I also own a lot climbers. I used to use all of them until I bought the EQ 24 made by Equalizer. It is by far the best climber I have ever used. It is all welded, packs great, roomy, and the easiest climber on the market to set up and still comes it at just a tad over 20lbs.You will never truely realize the advantages of being able to adjust the climber when it's on the tree until you try one of these stands. No more guess work, just adjust as you go. It is also very solid while in the tree. The "locking" system that they use to lock the two pieces together really works. Once locked in place you can not move the two pieces. The front bar isn't an issue at all like on some stands. It's low enough that youdon't have to worry about hitting it with your bow even while sitting down and shooting. I 245lbs and have enough room to do a 360 in the stand without even hitting the sides.
This stand was built by hunters, not a lab coat guy.
oh yeah....some more common sense....you should never use a climber without the two pieces being tied together....
IMO selecting a climber is a little more "complicated" than selecting a ladder or lock on.
1.) Am I going to pack my climber in and out every hunt? - A lot of people complain about their climbers being to heavy. Well, what do you expect when you buy a steel climber that weighs 30lbs? If you are going to pack your climber you should buy a good quality aluminum stand which most are 20lbs and lighter. You also need to buy a stand that is easy to pack. It needs to fit together so it will not clang around while you walk and also be easy enough to unpack and set up making the least amount of noise as possible. Also get a good pair of shoulder straps, the padded ones. You want the stand to be able to "hide" behind your body so it won't get caught on vines and limbs when walking through the woods. Don't get a stand that almost drags the ground or sticks up a foot above your head. Or one that sticks out a foot on both sides of you.
2.) Cliimbers are just like everything else, you pretty much get what you pay for. I like asolid ALL WELDED climber. Not one of the $150 jobs that are just bolted together. A good solid climber is just assecure as a lock onwhen its in the tree.
3.) I think its very important to buy a climber that "fits" you. It's very annoying to use a climber that is too small for your body frame. It is also very annoying to try to shoot a bow out of a climber with a fixed "shooting rail/safety rail" that is too high. Personally, I don't like an open front climber because of the risk of falling out, so I like one with a rail.
4.) Easy of set up. Some climbers use cables and chains while others use solid "rods". Although the solid rods seem like they would be the safest, they are also the noisest and IMO the hardest, and most time consuming to get around the tree and locked in place. The ones with the pins are annoying because you have to worry about dropping the pin in the dark.
I hunt a lot of public land in which I pack my climber in and out every hunt and I also own a lot climbers. I used to use all of them until I bought the EQ 24 made by Equalizer. It is by far the best climber I have ever used. It is all welded, packs great, roomy, and the easiest climber on the market to set up and still comes it at just a tad over 20lbs.You will never truely realize the advantages of being able to adjust the climber when it's on the tree until you try one of these stands. No more guess work, just adjust as you go. It is also very solid while in the tree. The "locking" system that they use to lock the two pieces together really works. Once locked in place you can not move the two pieces. The front bar isn't an issue at all like on some stands. It's low enough that youdon't have to worry about hitting it with your bow even while sitting down and shooting. I 245lbs and have enough room to do a 360 in the stand without even hitting the sides.
This stand was built by hunters, not a lab coat guy.
oh yeah....some more common sense....you should never use a climber without the two pieces being tied together....
12-24-2008, 03:10 PM
#27
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location:
Posts: 11,472
RE: Climber phase?
I have enough setups (hang ons and ladders) now that I don't use my climber too much anymore. The only time I use it is when I venture to a new piece of land or see something where I want to go mobile on my main land. I'm not real crazy about them to be honest. They are nice and do have their place. You can't argue with their mobility. But if you have enough setups around your land you are already "mobile" so to speak. It's not really even the work of lugging it in and out that bothers me. I really don't like the sound factor. I don't like the extra time you have to allow to unpack.. get up...get down... pack it up. I'd rather slither up some sticks or a ladder and be hunting in 10 seconds. No noise. No chance of metal banging.No nothing. Also you don't know exactly what you'll be looking at when you reach your destination. I like to take a peak at my shooting lanes and know where I have shot opportunities before hand. I've climbed a lot of trees in my time with my viper only to sit there wondering what the hell I'm doing here right now [8D].
12-24-2008, 03:20 PM
#28
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Mont County, Pa
Posts: 7,368
RE: Climber phase?
ORIGINAL: StrutNtom
I think that if people used a little more common sense then so many people wouldn't "dislike" climbers.
IMO selecting a climber is a little more "complicated" than selecting a ladder or lock on.
1.) Am I going to pack my climber in and out every hunt? - A lot of people complain about their climbers being to heavy. Well, what do you expect when you buy a steel climber that weighs 30lbs? If you are going to pack your climber you should buy a good quality aluminum stand which most are 20lbs and lighter. You also need to buy a stand that is easy to pack. It needs to fit together so it will not clang around while you walk and also be easy enough to unpack and set up making the least amount of noise as possible. Also get a good pair of shoulder straps, the padded ones. You want the stand to be able to "hide" behind your body so it won't get caught on vines and limbs when walking through the woods. Don't get a stand that almost drags the ground or sticks up a foot above your head. Or one that sticks out a foot on both sides of you.
2.) Cliimbers are just like everything else, you pretty much get what you pay for. I like asolid ALL WELDED climber. Not one of the $150 jobs that are just bolted together. A good solid climber is just assecure as a lock onwhen its in the tree.
3.) I think its very important to buy a climber that "fits" you. It's very annoying to use a climber that is too small for your body frame. It is also very annoying to try to shoot a bow out of a climber with a fixed "shooting rail/safety rail" that is too high. Personally, I don't like an open front climber because of the risk of falling out, so I like one with a rail.
4.) Easy of set up. Some climbers use cables and chains while others use solid "rods". Although the solid rods seem like they would be the safest, they are also the noisest and IMO the hardest, and most time consuming to get around the tree and locked in place. The ones with the pins are annoying because you have to worry about dropping the pin in the dark.
I hunt a lot of public land in which I pack my climber in and out every hunt and I also own a lot climbers. I used to use all of them until I bought the EQ 24 made by Equalizer. It is by far the best climber I have ever used. It is all welded, packs great, roomy, and the easiest climber on the market to set up and still comes it at just a tad over 20lbs.You will never truely realize the advantages of being able to adjust the climber when it's on the tree until you try one of these stands. No more guess work, just adjust as you go. It is also very solid while in the tree. The "locking" system that they use to lock the two pieces together really works. Once locked in place you can not move the two pieces. The front bar isn't an issue at all like on some stands. It's low enough that youdon't have to worry about hitting it with your bow even while sitting down and shooting. I 245lbs and have enough room to do a 360 in the stand without even hitting the sides.
This stand was built by hunters, not a lab coat guy.
oh yeah....some more common sense....you should never use a climber without the two pieces being tied together....
I think that if people used a little more common sense then so many people wouldn't "dislike" climbers.
IMO selecting a climber is a little more "complicated" than selecting a ladder or lock on.
1.) Am I going to pack my climber in and out every hunt? - A lot of people complain about their climbers being to heavy. Well, what do you expect when you buy a steel climber that weighs 30lbs? If you are going to pack your climber you should buy a good quality aluminum stand which most are 20lbs and lighter. You also need to buy a stand that is easy to pack. It needs to fit together so it will not clang around while you walk and also be easy enough to unpack and set up making the least amount of noise as possible. Also get a good pair of shoulder straps, the padded ones. You want the stand to be able to "hide" behind your body so it won't get caught on vines and limbs when walking through the woods. Don't get a stand that almost drags the ground or sticks up a foot above your head. Or one that sticks out a foot on both sides of you.
2.) Cliimbers are just like everything else, you pretty much get what you pay for. I like asolid ALL WELDED climber. Not one of the $150 jobs that are just bolted together. A good solid climber is just assecure as a lock onwhen its in the tree.
3.) I think its very important to buy a climber that "fits" you. It's very annoying to use a climber that is too small for your body frame. It is also very annoying to try to shoot a bow out of a climber with a fixed "shooting rail/safety rail" that is too high. Personally, I don't like an open front climber because of the risk of falling out, so I like one with a rail.
4.) Easy of set up. Some climbers use cables and chains while others use solid "rods". Although the solid rods seem like they would be the safest, they are also the noisest and IMO the hardest, and most time consuming to get around the tree and locked in place. The ones with the pins are annoying because you have to worry about dropping the pin in the dark.
I hunt a lot of public land in which I pack my climber in and out every hunt and I also own a lot climbers. I used to use all of them until I bought the EQ 24 made by Equalizer. It is by far the best climber I have ever used. It is all welded, packs great, roomy, and the easiest climber on the market to set up and still comes it at just a tad over 20lbs.You will never truely realize the advantages of being able to adjust the climber when it's on the tree until you try one of these stands. No more guess work, just adjust as you go. It is also very solid while in the tree. The "locking" system that they use to lock the two pieces together really works. Once locked in place you can not move the two pieces. The front bar isn't an issue at all like on some stands. It's low enough that youdon't have to worry about hitting it with your bow even while sitting down and shooting. I 245lbs and have enough room to do a 360 in the stand without even hitting the sides.
This stand was built by hunters, not a lab coat guy.
oh yeah....some more common sense....you should never use a climber without the two pieces being tied together....
12-24-2008, 03:21 PM
#29
Typical Buck
Join Date: May 2007
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 957
RE: Climber phase?
ORIGINAL: early in
Yep, all of those GREAT quality's you mentioned above are spelled just one way. LONE WOLF.
ORIGINAL: StrutNtom
I think that if people used a little more common sense then so many people wouldn't "dislike" climbers.
IMO selecting a climber is a little more "complicated" than selecting a ladder or lock on.
1.) Am I going to pack my climber in and out every hunt? - A lot of people complain about their climbers being to heavy. Well, what do you expect when you buy a steel climber that weighs 30lbs? If you are going to pack your climber you should buy a good quality aluminum stand which most are 20lbs and lighter. You also need to buy a stand that is easy to pack. It needs to fit together so it will not clang around while you walk and also be easy enough to unpack and set up making the least amount of noise as possible. Also get a good pair of shoulder straps, the padded ones. You want the stand to be able to "hide" behind your body so it won't get caught on vines and limbs when walking through the woods. Don't get a stand that almost drags the ground or sticks up a foot above your head. Or one that sticks out a foot on both sides of you.
2.) Cliimbers are just like everything else, you pretty much get what you pay for. I like asolid ALL WELDED climber. Not one of the $150 jobs that are just bolted together. A good solid climber is just assecure as a lock onwhen its in the tree.
3.) I think its very important to buy a climber that "fits" you. It's very annoying to use a climber that is too small for your body frame. It is also very annoying to try to shoot a bow out of a climber with a fixed "shooting rail/safety rail" that is too high. Personally, I don't like an open front climber because of the risk of falling out, so I like one with a rail.
4.) Easy of set up. Some climbers use cables and chains while others use solid "rods". Although the solid rods seem like they would be the safest, they are also the noisest and IMO the hardest, and most time consuming to get around the tree and locked in place. The ones with the pins are annoying because you have to worry about dropping the pin in the dark.
I hunt a lot of public land in which I pack my climber in and out every hunt and I also own a lot climbers. I used to use all of them until I bought the EQ 24 made by Equalizer. It is by far the best climber I have ever used. It is all welded, packs great, roomy, and the easiest climber on the market to set up and still comes it at just a tad over 20lbs.You will never truely realize the advantages of being able to adjust the climber when it's on the tree until you try one of these stands. No more guess work, just adjust as you go. It is also very solid while in the tree. The "locking" system that they use to lock the two pieces together really works. Once locked in place you can not move the two pieces. The front bar isn't an issue at all like on some stands. It's low enough that youdon't have to worry about hitting it with your bow even while sitting down and shooting. I 245lbs and have enough room to do a 360 in the stand without even hitting the sides.
This stand was built by hunters, not a lab coat guy.
oh yeah....some more common sense....you should never use a climber without the two pieces being tied together....
I think that if people used a little more common sense then so many people wouldn't "dislike" climbers.
IMO selecting a climber is a little more "complicated" than selecting a ladder or lock on.
1.) Am I going to pack my climber in and out every hunt? - A lot of people complain about their climbers being to heavy. Well, what do you expect when you buy a steel climber that weighs 30lbs? If you are going to pack your climber you should buy a good quality aluminum stand which most are 20lbs and lighter. You also need to buy a stand that is easy to pack. It needs to fit together so it will not clang around while you walk and also be easy enough to unpack and set up making the least amount of noise as possible. Also get a good pair of shoulder straps, the padded ones. You want the stand to be able to "hide" behind your body so it won't get caught on vines and limbs when walking through the woods. Don't get a stand that almost drags the ground or sticks up a foot above your head. Or one that sticks out a foot on both sides of you.
2.) Cliimbers are just like everything else, you pretty much get what you pay for. I like asolid ALL WELDED climber. Not one of the $150 jobs that are just bolted together. A good solid climber is just assecure as a lock onwhen its in the tree.
3.) I think its very important to buy a climber that "fits" you. It's very annoying to use a climber that is too small for your body frame. It is also very annoying to try to shoot a bow out of a climber with a fixed "shooting rail/safety rail" that is too high. Personally, I don't like an open front climber because of the risk of falling out, so I like one with a rail.
4.) Easy of set up. Some climbers use cables and chains while others use solid "rods". Although the solid rods seem like they would be the safest, they are also the noisest and IMO the hardest, and most time consuming to get around the tree and locked in place. The ones with the pins are annoying because you have to worry about dropping the pin in the dark.
I hunt a lot of public land in which I pack my climber in and out every hunt and I also own a lot climbers. I used to use all of them until I bought the EQ 24 made by Equalizer. It is by far the best climber I have ever used. It is all welded, packs great, roomy, and the easiest climber on the market to set up and still comes it at just a tad over 20lbs.You will never truely realize the advantages of being able to adjust the climber when it's on the tree until you try one of these stands. No more guess work, just adjust as you go. It is also very solid while in the tree. The "locking" system that they use to lock the two pieces together really works. Once locked in place you can not move the two pieces. The front bar isn't an issue at all like on some stands. It's low enough that youdon't have to worry about hitting it with your bow even while sitting down and shooting. I 245lbs and have enough room to do a 360 in the stand without even hitting the sides.
This stand was built by hunters, not a lab coat guy.
oh yeah....some more common sense....you should never use a climber without the two pieces being tied together....
12-24-2008, 03:27 PM
#30
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Mont County, Pa
Posts: 7,368
RE: Climber phase?
ORIGINAL: StrutNtom
Ever used an Equalizer?
ORIGINAL: early in
Yep, all of those GREAT quality's you mentioned above are spelled just one way. LONE WOLF.
ORIGINAL: StrutNtom
I think that if people used a little more common sense then so many people wouldn't "dislike" climbers.
IMO selecting a climber is a little more "complicated" than selecting a ladder or lock on.
1.) Am I going to pack my climber in and out every hunt? - A lot of people complain about their climbers being to heavy. Well, what do you expect when you buy a steel climber that weighs 30lbs? If you are going to pack your climber you should buy a good quality aluminum stand which most are 20lbs and lighter. You also need to buy a stand that is easy to pack. It needs to fit together so it will not clang around while you walk and also be easy enough to unpack and set up making the least amount of noise as possible. Also get a good pair of shoulder straps, the padded ones. You want the stand to be able to "hide" behind your body so it won't get caught on vines and limbs when walking through the woods. Don't get a stand that almost drags the ground or sticks up a foot above your head. Or one that sticks out a foot on both sides of you.
2.) Cliimbers are just like everything else, you pretty much get what you pay for. I like asolid ALL WELDED climber. Not one of the $150 jobs that are just bolted together. A good solid climber is just assecure as a lock onwhen its in the tree.
3.) I think its very important to buy a climber that "fits" you. It's very annoying to use a climber that is too small for your body frame. It is also very annoying to try to shoot a bow out of a climber with a fixed "shooting rail/safety rail" that is too high. Personally, I don't like an open front climber because of the risk of falling out, so I like one with a rail.
4.) Easy of set up. Some climbers use cables and chains while others use solid "rods". Although the solid rods seem like they would be the safest, they are also the noisest and IMO the hardest, and most time consuming to get around the tree and locked in place. The ones with the pins are annoying because you have to worry about dropping the pin in the dark.
I hunt a lot of public land in which I pack my climber in and out every hunt and I also own a lot climbers. I used to use all of them until I bought the EQ 24 made by Equalizer. It is by far the best climber I have ever used. It is all welded, packs great, roomy, and the easiest climber on the market to set up and still comes it at just a tad over 20lbs.You will never truely realize the advantages of being able to adjust the climber when it's on the tree until you try one of these stands. No more guess work, just adjust as you go. It is also very solid while in the tree. The "locking" system that they use to lock the two pieces together really works. Once locked in place you can not move the two pieces. The front bar isn't an issue at all like on some stands. It's low enough that youdon't have to worry about hitting it with your bow even while sitting down and shooting. I 245lbs and have enough room to do a 360 in the stand without even hitting the sides.
This stand was built by hunters, not a lab coat guy.
oh yeah....some more common sense....you should never use a climber without the two pieces being tied together....
I think that if people used a little more common sense then so many people wouldn't "dislike" climbers.
IMO selecting a climber is a little more "complicated" than selecting a ladder or lock on.
1.) Am I going to pack my climber in and out every hunt? - A lot of people complain about their climbers being to heavy. Well, what do you expect when you buy a steel climber that weighs 30lbs? If you are going to pack your climber you should buy a good quality aluminum stand which most are 20lbs and lighter. You also need to buy a stand that is easy to pack. It needs to fit together so it will not clang around while you walk and also be easy enough to unpack and set up making the least amount of noise as possible. Also get a good pair of shoulder straps, the padded ones. You want the stand to be able to "hide" behind your body so it won't get caught on vines and limbs when walking through the woods. Don't get a stand that almost drags the ground or sticks up a foot above your head. Or one that sticks out a foot on both sides of you.
2.) Cliimbers are just like everything else, you pretty much get what you pay for. I like asolid ALL WELDED climber. Not one of the $150 jobs that are just bolted together. A good solid climber is just assecure as a lock onwhen its in the tree.
3.) I think its very important to buy a climber that "fits" you. It's very annoying to use a climber that is too small for your body frame. It is also very annoying to try to shoot a bow out of a climber with a fixed "shooting rail/safety rail" that is too high. Personally, I don't like an open front climber because of the risk of falling out, so I like one with a rail.
4.) Easy of set up. Some climbers use cables and chains while others use solid "rods". Although the solid rods seem like they would be the safest, they are also the noisest and IMO the hardest, and most time consuming to get around the tree and locked in place. The ones with the pins are annoying because you have to worry about dropping the pin in the dark.
I hunt a lot of public land in which I pack my climber in and out every hunt and I also own a lot climbers. I used to use all of them until I bought the EQ 24 made by Equalizer. It is by far the best climber I have ever used. It is all welded, packs great, roomy, and the easiest climber on the market to set up and still comes it at just a tad over 20lbs.You will never truely realize the advantages of being able to adjust the climber when it's on the tree until you try one of these stands. No more guess work, just adjust as you go. It is also very solid while in the tree. The "locking" system that they use to lock the two pieces together really works. Once locked in place you can not move the two pieces. The front bar isn't an issue at all like on some stands. It's low enough that youdon't have to worry about hitting it with your bow even while sitting down and shooting. I 245lbs and have enough room to do a 360 in the stand without even hitting the sides.
This stand was built by hunters, not a lab coat guy.
oh yeah....some more common sense....you should never use a climber without the two pieces being tied together....
