Oh it makes a huge differance,with only two arrows in my quiver the side torque will throw it inches to the left at only 20 yards,I would loose arrows at 70 yards without adjusting,something to pay attention to if you take your quiver off in the stand

A quiver will affect spine on a traditional setup. Whether it does or not on a compound.....I have no idea.

Well i dont practice with my quiver on but it will be on when im hunting. I should practice with it on. Wish I had a 1 piece.

There is much more to tuning, and checking the tune, than just paper.

I have`nt tried shooting broadheads without the quiver on,I want the same scinario I hunt with.
The quiver is a bowtech 6 arrow detachable

The centershot is perfect the cams max at same time (binary) I`ve always had the same achor point,so peep is in the same spot,I`ve been friends with the two guys that started vapor trails since nobody ever heard of them and they give me pointers on issues like tuning,maybe you could list some other issues I might want to look at.

Centershot is a place to start and, unless your arrow's dynamic spine is perfect for your current DW and shooting style, then the rest isoften adjusted off of centershot. You should also start with nock level, sometimes nock high a little but, with the binary cams I have worked with nock level seems to be good.

There are some stickies in the technical forum about walk back tuning and other bow setup stuff. Then there is group tuning andbareshaft tuning. Those are covered in the tech forum also.

Can you get someone to stand behind you and watch your arrow flight from longer distances? Can you have someone shoot your bow and YOU watch (from behind)?

Are your arrows entering your target in a straight line (at all distances)?

For ME....I care verylittle about paper tuning my bow for BH's. I don't discount the step....but I spend very little time on it.

FIRST AND FOREMOST.....
Just because a BOW is paper-tuned at 5 ft, don't mean it will shoot well out to 70yds. Paper-tuning is just one form of tuning. And what your have is a TUNING problem. If your BH's are that far away from your FP's, assuming they spin TRUE, you've got a tuning problem. Slick Tricks are the BEST flying BH I've shot, and "NO, I'm not a FANBOY," just willing to share that info to HELP you out.

If you're BH's consistently shoot where you say they do, then you need to RE-TUNE your bow, raise your rest or lower your nock-point, and move the rest a little. You can't tell me your bow is different than the last 4 I've had that I've got to shoot Broadheads right close to FP's, it just ain't so. AND, if you were shooting with a TRULY knowledgeable crowd, one of your "buddies" would have set you straight on this. Tuning a bow to shoot BH's CLOSE to FP's is a little tedious, especially if you don't have a GOOD rest and a good place to do it, but it's not that difficult.

And for the record, the QUIVER shouldn't make that much difference, I've never noticed much on any bow I've shot.

If you hunt from a stand it makes perfect sense to hang the quiver on the tree and shoot the bow WITHOUT the quiver on, as MANY of us do, but again, the QUIVER AIN'T gonna make that much difference!!!!

THIS is a big bunch of COMPLETE UTTER "BS!!!!" If the quiver makes that much difference, the problem is in the guy behind the bow or the tuning of the bow, NOT THE BOW or the BH!!!!


Jeff,
Good point. Most guys think that if their bow is paper-tuned it's TUNED and that's all there is to it, and they are WRONG. I don't/won't paper-tune, because it does nothing for me. I do a walk-back, and then slap some BH's on to fine tune, adjuct rest-height/nock-point, and fine-tune the center-rest. The last time I tried to paper tune, I had my nock-point WAY high, and it through EVERYTHING off, I went back to what I know, and was back to archer's minute of angle 3-4" groupings at 40yds.

I`ll just ignore the ignorance as anyone who has experience with a bow knows adding weight to one side will create side torque and I`m here for pointers not foolish arguments. yeesh