1) Before I fletch the arrows I use a G5 ASD to square both the nock and insert sides of the arrow.

2) I fletch the arrows up and shoot with field points

3) Put on broadheads with my older nicked up blades. (I shoot Slick Trick mags and keep the older blades for practice)

4) Spin test.

5) Make small adjustments to my bow (usually the rest) based on how the arrows hit.

6) Put on the new blades and go hunting. Maybe take one practice shot with the new blades.

I have all of my arrows labeled and have certain ones that are relegated to field points only.

I shoot
Beman ICS Hunters and Sonic 100's.

I screw in the broadhead and spin it. If it wobbles I put it in a pan of hot water then rotate the broadhead to smooth out the glue. I will line up one blade with the cock Vane. Then spin again. Up until now that has worked fine for me. However, if I get one that still wobbles, I assume that the end of the shaft needs squared. Up to now I have not had to borrow my friends squaring tool.

At least that works for me.

I know that I'm pretty anal but I use a surface plate, v-blocks and a dial indicator. I have to say that with the Gold Tip XT Hunters that I use the inserts fit snugly and all of the heads run true. They all pass the spin test, I can just find which arrows run concentric to the broadhead within .001 vs. .003 for the bad arrows (I told you that I'm anal). I try each of these arrows with a broadhead to make sure they fly and hit good and then I save those arrows for hunting so that I don't damage them while practicing.