Yeah, but I still don't get it. Other than that, it's still free floating. Not so with non drop away rest. Again, I'm not arguing, but I AM struggling to understand. I'm no engineer, that's for sure.

What I do know is what I see. And I've seen people who could NEVER get a bow paper tuned properly, suddenly do so w/ a drop away rest.

This is kind of relative to one of Matt/PA's posts.


There are 2 different kind of 3d archers. One that shoots on the weekends to have fun and prepare for bowseason and the other that competes to be competitive and win.

Very good read here.

http://huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=2491876

I guess I'm just not understanding how it can be as accurate with all the fletching contact, the movement at the shot, and the fact it's supported by whiskers for gosh's sakes. Once again, it might be as accurate. I'm just not able to see "HOW" it's that accurate.

Rob, I feared that would be the answer more than anything. "gadgetry"

I just feel that when and if I get into 3D other than my back yard, I don't want to try and focus on 2 different setups year round.I want my setup to be as close as possible to my hunting rig (as in "my huntingrig"). That way there are no mental issues when season rolls around.Maybe I'm wrong. Just my way of thinking.

LT

Mobow, what your saying has merit too. In bad form, a spring steel rest can be a curse. If an average joe is torquing his bow, the rest is also torqued inherantly guiding the arrow to be untuned, the drop away, even torqued gets out of the way of said arrow.

With perfect form (obviously which most top shooters have), the rest becomes less of an equation of accuracy thusly, simplicities like a spring steel rest can be used, they are easy and simple. Those same target archers can be just as accurate with any other rest on the market.

If I decide to shoot 3D, it will be to win. Why else would I want to shoot other than for the practice? When I hunt, I am in the greater of the 2 competitions (Hunting/3D). When hitting foam targets for a trophy gets to be more important than making an effective hunting shot, I would have to quit 3D.

LT

NOPE,the opposite is true,sorry,seems redundant doesn't it.[8D]


The rest needs to guide the arrow as long as possible to be forgiving ,that is untill the string no longer has contact,then you don't want the rest to be in contact.

The rest is used for the same reason they choose deflex risers,FORGIVENESS,doesn't really maean accuracy.It is what will happen when the shot is less than perfect.


wb are not even a little forgiving and that shows up more at distance.

If ALL I was trying to do was practice for hunting situations......I'd buy this. I'm setting up my 3D rig to win with it......based on a ruleset that's pre-determined. If I hunted in those exact situations.....I'd set my hunting rig up the same way. I'm just adapting to what's before me.

I'll have full confidence that EACH setup is correct for its intended purpose.

I'm using a Pro Tuner. I really prefer a spring steel style rest over anything else out there. The Pro Tuner is the cream of the crop when it comes to spring steel type rests. If you don't want to spend the $$$ on a Pro Tuner, the actual TT Spring Steel (get the 2 hole rest model) is second in line, but doesn't offer the no tools, micro adjust options a Pro Tuner has. Also, after several years, a Pro Tuner will begin to round out on the allen screws, the track that the unit moves on for windage/elevation will start to mar from being retightened multiple times, etc. I've got both of them, and I still keep the spring steel around just in case I want to setup another bow other than whatever I'm shooting as a target bow at the time, but when I have a chance I will pick up another Pro Tuner and retire this spring steel.

To tune a Drop Zone so that it's cord isn't yanking on your cables affecting timing (happens whether you are tied to the slide or down cable), you have to time the rest so that it hits the full draw position in the last few tenths of an inch in the draw cycle. Now if you creep at all on any shot, that creep is affecting where the rest is.......full up position or slightly dropped. I don't care who you are talking about as a shooter, if you video a good shooter for 60 shots your gonna catch them creeping occasionally, and this is only magnified when you have bad footing, up/down hill shots, etc. This is why I would never consider having a drop away for any reason or purpose that is activated by the cable slide, or cables. The only drop away I'd consider to be honest would be a Limb Driver, because it's actuated by the limb rather than the cables. That's a LOT more consistent of a way to make your rest drop than messing with the cables.

Just MHO.

If everyone took video such as this of themselves for 60 shots in a row, I doubt they would ever consider another cable driven drop away again. With a cable driven drop away you can actually see the elevation of the arrow shaft change when you creep from this view.

Ok, now there's a question I understand. We've been taught FOREVER that ANY fletching contact is terrible, horrible, and simply unacceptable.

BUT, in the case of the WB, because each of the 3 fletchings have the SAME contact as the others.....They cancel each other out. It's a non issue. ARe they more vulnerable to flaws in form? Yeah, probably, but the rest in and of itself is JUST as accurate as any other.