Depending on how serious you want to get, there are several things you can work on. There are 3 things to focus on with 3D. Shooting good shots, knowing the distance, and knowing where the 10/X ring is exactly. I actually have a written out shot sequence that is specific for 3D because I am nerdy about this kind of stuff........[8D].

Good glass is one of the most important pieces of equipment IMHO. You already have some Monarch's IIRC, and those should work great to pick up lines when the target is in the shadows. If you ever shoot an IBO event you will be restricted to 8.5x or less though, keep that in mind. Being able to glass each and every target before the shot is soooooo critical and goes to help you know where exactly that 10/X ring is. It is very important to have full confidence at full draw that you are aiming at the right spot.

Shooting good shots from places with uneven footing, etc is also very important. There is no way to really practice shooting under less than ideal conditions other than just doing it. Shoot as many local events as you can. Join an indoor spots league over the winter to really perfect your shot sequence and form, if you know you can shoot a perfect shot under ideal conditions it will make it easier to work on the shooting when footing/angle/lighting isn't in your favor. This really is a big advantage, so many 3D guys aren't indoor spotties and drop easy X's at close distances where judging distance isn't really a factor.

Walk everywhere with your rangefinder. I carry mine to work with me even. Picking good distance numbers consistently is the most important piece of this game IMHO. You must be able to pick within 2 yards of actual distance at 40 yards to have a hope of hitting that 10 ring in the HC. Michael Braden suggests to actually buy a 35 or 50 yard rope (depending on what class you shoot) with clear markers tied onto it every 5 yards. Tie it to your quiver belt and walk around the woods with it. Guess distance to an object, walk to it, then look back to the rope and see how far it is. I pick yardage numbers by breaking down into 10 yards chunks. I pick 10 yard chunks to specific items on the ground between me and the target, then I pick 10 yard chunks from the target back to me. I get a rough idea from that and then I take the time to look at the target. How big does it look? How far is the tree it's next to? How much detail from the molding process of the target can I make out? How much time does it take for the other guys arrow to get there judging by sound? These are the things I am looking at while the other guys in my group are shooting. This spring I plan to work hard on learning to pick better numbers and will be working weekly with a local that has a Worlds Semi Pro title and ASA SOY title.......specifically on picking numbers. He picks better numbers than anyone I know and has the titles to prove it as well........he will actually train as much on picking numbers with no bow as he will actually shooting at something. I am pretty good now but drop 2-5 arrows on average out of the 10 ring on the average 30 target course due to bad number picking. Almost 90% of the points I drop on a 3D course is due to picking the wrong number.

For your quiver, you cant go wrong with Fist quivers. Simply the best out there in my opinion. They are $$$ but are among the nicest setups out there and probably the most popular among guys that are at the top/elite level. They are all handcrafted in the USA out of leather specifically for you. I really want one bad right now for the 07 season and am hoping to have the $$$ soon once I am done purchasing a few more items for my cabin.

www.fist-inc.com

This is the one I want with my initials carved into the top there. I will probably order one of his belts with my name carved on it at the same time and a leather accessory pouch for the belt as well.

I can't believe no one has told you this one yet......but the FIRST thing I'd buy is a $7.99 arrow puller.

Like you, Greg....I've always been into sports. I played all sports in high school.....played college baseball.....became a PGA Professional.....and I've always been EXTREMELY competitive in any endeavor that I pursue. I'm glad 3D isn't that big around here.....or I'd be all over it. I think archery is a LOT like golf. I see similarities in almost every facet of the sport (target shooting as a sport). I'm finding it less and less fun to go to the indoor 3D course at my archery shop (indoor shots to 43 yds) and just shoot "for fun". I'd like to compete. Sounds like we have some similar tendencies.

Good luck.

Greg;
The stools can help to take the load off sometimes, but isnt always needed for every 3D Shoot, sometimes I feel like just hip quiver shooting also..... When I prefer toshoot feeling not weighed down........I let my stool carry ice, drinks, snacks,towel, extra nocks,bug spray, cell phone,arrow puller,target reference cards, umbrella, writting pen's,a few field bow tools. extra D-Loop materiel, a lighter, cameraETC.

FLW makes a very nice stool, that you can add Golf tubes to for your arrows, and the inner compartments on the chair will hold ice to keep your drinks cold most of the day on those hot and humid days.

Find some fun folks to shoot with and keep it fun.... have a good time.

If you want to get serious about it take pic's of your targets with the 12 and 14 rings visable in your pic's and then use these as a refernce to memorize where those rings are at.
Learn to judge yardage not only by ground judgeing, cause the ground wont always be there...... with practice comes the memorization part of the game.. after you shoot the same targets over and over and over you will notice that you are beginning to know what thaT ANIMAL LOOKS LIKE AT 33 YARDS AND WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE AT 41 YARDS AND.... NOTICEING THE DIFFERENCE IN THE SIZE OF THE TARGET AT THE VARIOUS YARDAGES..... I can see a blade of grass at 23 yards but not at 25 yards.... I can see the 12 and 14 rings at 25 yards but not at 27 yards.. I learned the limitations of my bad eyesight and put it to a positive use to aide in my yardage judgeing for 3D.

Dont be shy.... ask some of the more accomplished 3D shooters in your area if you can shoot the course with them and then watch them shoot and try to pick their brain's.

A real MUST for pulling arrows from 3D targets in my opinion is Woody's Arrow Lube........ it's worth every pennie

Have a Great Time and enjoy all the new folks you are gonna meet at the 3D shoots......Hope some of this help you Greg ...See ya at the Illinois Deer and Turkey Classic.
Deb

Also you asked about stools. This is the one I bought last year, it's the Aurora Backpack/Stool from lancaster archery. I don't use it a lot but it is really nice for the bigger events. It was only like $30 or so.

Rick James..... do you have an umbrella to protect you from the wind too.[8D][8D][8D] One of the reasons I don't do 3D.... guys taking so dang long to shoot an arrow. They all have to stand there and breath, and use their binoculars, and do breathing exercises, and glass again, and wait for the wind to slow or stop... and GOD help you if someone on the next highway over honks a horn, they start all over. It shouldn't take hours to shoot 30 arrows for Pete's sake. If they outlawed binos, little cards with animal drawings etc etc it would take about 1/4 the time. We used to shoot an NFAA round in less time than it takes to shoot some 3D courses.

Same here......No offense, but the "open" class shooters are the one's that almost put 3-D under in my state. It is slowly starting to rebound... People just don't have time to spend ALL DAY on a 3-D course that should take no more than 2 hours...

That's the very reason I like the all traditional shoots.. I can shoot the course 2-3 times in one day. If I shoot a mixed shoot, I make sure that I am there very early and get in front of all the open shooters.

LOL. I agree too. My wife and I just go and shoot. No binocs, shoot, and get it over. We are out to have fun and compete against each other a little bit. Wow, I couldn't imagine walking around with a rope dragging behind me for estimating yardage. I guess like every sport or activity out there; some people REALLY go all out. I bring an arrow puller and a tube hip quiver with a little clip to hold my pencil and score sheet. Sometimes, we don't even keep score.

Our 3D range is indoors....with shots up to 43 yds. Three of us go through there 3X a couple times a week in 1-1/2 hrs.

When they start signing checks to the winners after we finish.....I'll start taking it more seriously.

3D is what it is........a practice for hunting for some, simple fun with buddies for others right on up to serious competition.
It's a game with a score and as such it will have people that take it to different levels.
Local 3D shoots are the only consistent and real life practice that serious State, and National shooters can get on a weekly basis. I'm out for absolute precision and with unmarked yardage and scoring rings that are hard to pinpoint its simply not possible to be an upper shelf 3D shooter by taking shortcuts.
The issue many people have with the "Serious" types (and I'm one of them) is not having consideration for your fellow shooters. Just like golf, if your slowing play let the faster shooters shoot through andeverybody gets what they want from the same course.
We ALWAYS let faster shooters by, sometimes 2 and 3 groups at a time to keep things moving. Nowwe're not taking 2 and 3 minutes per shooter but with 4 guys it still does take a little time to go through your yardage estimation and make a good shot but there is absolutely no reason to not be considerate of your fellow shooters.

What distances would one need to prepare for to shoot in these tournments. Its always interested me. Sounds like fun!

Chief