What is the best mechanical broad head to use in a shoot thru blind.


Lets assume I can't use fixed blades because I have a bad bow torque problem and my broadhead will not tune to my feild points no matter what I do and what bow I use.

I, personally, would not shoot through a "shoot through" screen. I've heard too many stories wherea guy didn't hit the intended target or the mechanical opened before it hit the target.

As far as mechanical, try a few and see what works for you.

Or perhaps practice shooting your bow using proper form and eliminate your torque problem. I'm sorry but it sounds like the problem is with the archer and not the gear.

I've shot thru the mesh shoot-thru windows with fixed blades and they seem to be just fine. I would not use a mechanical on a shoot-thru mesh window. I agree with txrookie, you need to figure out what the problem is. Sounds like you are trying to take a short cut. I use mechanicals and fixed blades and you should be able to get them to fly pretty close. You may find some of the larger cutting diameter blades won't fly as true as field tips. Most of the 1 -1/8" or smaller will fly pretty true. I haven't had as much luck with the cheaper heads like Eastman (walmart). There is no majic blade out there that will find the target if you don't practice and improve your form. Good luck.

IF you are shooting a newer model bow, go with a really open grip on your bow hand. I had the same issue 2 years ago and a Hoyt Olympic shooter taught me to open that hand up as much a possible to reduce feedback to the riser. I shoot a Hoyt Trykon now and I don't even close my fingers at all with this rig. My groups have become more than acceptable now. If your bow is older try just holding the bow with your pointer finger and your thumb in the "OK" position.

The second trick is to flatten your hand parallel with the ground so your hand is touching the grip with only the muscle between your first finger and your thumb. (not on the palm on the small side of your hand.) Once you get to full draw flatten your hand out. This adds about an inch to your draw length but I took up the slack in my elbow with more bend. ( Also helps get clothes out of the way.)

Bottom line is less touching the bow the less input to the grip to make the bow torque.

Thanks for the replies. I can shoot quarters at 20 yrds with feild points but my broadheads won't hit where my feild points do.

Yes, I am looking for a "quick fix" because its the middle of hunting season. I have been working on this problem for 3 months now. 2 bows, multiple bow techs, differnt releases, different grips, different stances, different anchor points....no help......

So I had just sighted in for broadheads....but now I have too many blinds that I need to shoot through and I am concerned with the torque in my bow the mesh will be a problem. So my "quick fix" is mechanical that won't pop on a shoot thru. Now to just find one.


Thanks

I doubt you'll find a mechanical that will not open when shooting through he mesh window. Instead, you could sontinue to shoot your fixed blades, but tune your bow to shoot them. For me, sometimes it's a matter of moving the sight a 1/16 of an inch. Is your bow paper tuned? If not, that should probably be done first. I think the thing that is most critical with shooting is follow through. Make sure you are following through. Also, make sure you are aiming at the smallest detail on the target, instead of the general area. Most of all, DO NOT PEEK! Your arrow will hit the target whether you watch it or not. Watching it won't make it hit the "x".