I use a commercial seat that straps around the tree. Here is a picture:

http://www.the-gleasons.com/Seat%20for%20a%20Y-board.htm

not a very good one, because I am actually hunting, and standing in the tree (you see my boots). I took these pictures last season as I visited my stands with one of those new camera phones, so it was pretty easy to get picture and put the pages together. To see the whole 9 yards including how to make the stands, steps and several extra pictures see here:

http://www.the-gleasons.com/low_cost_tree_stands_for_hunting.htm

Chap Gleason

I have one of these:

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0004818414176a&type=product&cm Cat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=tree+seat&N=4887&am p;Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&amp ;Ntt=tree+seat&noImage=0

and another type that folds up quite easily so it is tight against the tree. The big padded one like above is more comfortable, but it is difficult to get out of the way for bow shots. Rifle/muzzie/flinter no problem since 50 yards is a common shot, but I only shoot 25 and under with my bow, so getting something out of the way quietly is a big deal.

Chap Gleason

Id use it.

Thanks. Why? What in the design makes you think it is safe, while others don't. Chap Gleason

My little brother actually should have said this is a picture of a NO-cost treestand!!! because I know that he didn't spend a dime on it and he had it built in very little time.

That is the very, very best kind---0 cost, easy to build and rock solid. Amen. Chap Gleason

Lone Wolf,

I value my live >>a lot<<, I don't know why you would say I didn't. That is why the design is >>rock<< solid:

1) 2 sheets of plywood 3/4 thick screwed together with at least 10 screws,rock solid and nailed or screwed into the tree with at least 3" spikes, galvenized.

2) That is why the rope around the tree for each stepis 3/8 poly prop rope, that does not rot, mildew or streach significantly. The role has a maximum load weight of 1050 lbs, there is no man that weighs that.

3) That is why the 4x4 pressure treat block has a 3/4" piece of plywood with a hole thru it taped to the block to keep you from breaking the 4x4 block.

4) That is why I recommend that the steps be placed only 18" apart, so when your cold and stiff you step securely.

5) that is why I recommend you leave an 18" piece of rope hanging down from the step so you can grab ahold and wrap it around your hand to hold on to the tree tight instead of "hugging" a big tree, like some people have to go up with climbing stands.

6) that is why I recommend about 4 foot up in the tree above the Y-boardthat you place another piece of 3/8 rope tied around the tree to use as a hand hold

7) that is why I recommend you nail two spikes into the tree, one for your bow andone for your fanny pack

8) that is why I recommend you bring a commercial seat with you so you can sit comfortably all day

The above logical design was designed for safety and durability and minimize cost, because I love to hunt multiple places. If you can push back with logical reason for the untrustyworthness of these stands please do so, I am willing to listen. Thank you,
Chap Gleason

Make that an oak plank instead of pine and waterproof it and that stand would outlive any metal stand out there . I've hunted from plenty of home made jobs like that , never felt unsafe in any of them .

There should bea link with that of some low cost life insurance. May I suggest get some term insurance, get more bang for your bucks.

Too much work, and not cheap, to build something that has such limited useage. You'd be better off buying a 16 foot climbing stick and a cheap hang on. You can put them anywhere, especially in this Y tree you show this one in. Nope, by the time you go through all the screws, plywood, rope, etc etc, you're better off with a couple hang ons that'll last for years.