I got one of these heads aswell, With most shooters keeping the impact point close is really no problem , so if the arrows off the mark an inch , its still turkey in the Pot ! I think there great, No better place to hit a bird then in the Head...BT

No one here has said how they fly? How do they fly as compared to field points? Another question is, how can you practice shooting the head if you only get one @ $35.00. Won't practicing mess up, bend or break, the weak looking blades? Or do you get practice blades and sheaths with them?

Yeah, what he said[8D]

Had to put this back to the top. I want to know the answer to my above questions, please!!! I am interested in them, but I am a little causious at the same time. I think you understand.

i dunno about how they fly like field tips, but still you get replacable blades with it for $35.00. thats a good deal to me... And you get 3 for $35.00

Here's is what I think bownutty. First let me say I haven't had the chance to shoot this broadhead as yet as our order has disappeared in shipment and we're still waiting for the 2nd set to arrive.

Now the thing to note here is--these heads, the 100 grain is 2.5" in diameter and the 125 grain is 4" in diameter. This means for our 'normal' hunting arrows which extends just about 1/2" beyond our rest--- forks, pass thru or launcher, cannot be used with these broadheads as the clearance to the riser will not be enough.
It then means we'll have to have our arrow insert beyond the front of the riser so as to accommodate these broadheads.
This is why these Gobbler Guillotine are actually set up for 'longer shafts' and the inventor of the Guillotine has also come up with a complete fletched feather shaft, 32" in length, that should be matched with their broadhead so as to properly control the flight.
Here's a link of an article that expands more on the Gobbler Guillotine and is worth reading---'some' of it, maybe not all.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...=4000105040204

Actually, they fly pretty well if you do a few things in advance. You want to get an aggressive helical when you fletch your arrows. I didn't buy the shaft that they market, it's an Arrow Dynamics shaft painted black and that must be where they make their money because they charge WAY too much for it, but alas I digress. You can get the shafts on eBay pretty cheap, or some larger bowshops might have a couple lying around, and either fletch them yourself or have a bow tech do it for you, but you want a steep helical and you want them to extend a couple of inches or three past the riser at full draw. You'll also want a drop away rest, for obvious reasons. As far as practicing with them goes, I went ahead and got a extra pack of blades and made a special target out of a round of chicken wire filled with old rags and cut a hole in the wire to prevent shearing of the blades because I really didn't know how tough they would be. (That target works pretty well for normal broadheads too.) However, they are pretty tough and unless you hit the ground or a tree dead on the blades won't bend or break. They fly pretty much like a field point, but if you're not paper tuned almost perfect they tend to exaggerate whatever way it needs to be tuned. So, I guess what I'm saying is if your bow is tuned well, and you do a couple of things right, the head works quite well.