Skeeter, funny how things are different for everybody. Personally, I found T7 to be more difficult to clean than Pyrodex. Yeah, it stinks more, but hot water and dish soap, followed by a boiling water rinse and dry patches have always removed 100% of the fouling quickly for me. Let the barrel cool a little, then run a patch coated with Bore Butter down the spout and I'm finished.

I would be interested in trying the Cabela's conversion kit, but since I paid $$ for the Remington kit, I went back to #11 caps and will continue to use them for now. I seem to kill everything I shoot, so what the heck. Last year I killed two foxes in less than an hour with my Remington. They died facing each other no less than 15 feet apart. Made a good picture!

Brian

BDHUNTR, I hear yeah!! One of my buds had problems using the 209 kit from rem and immediately switched back to the old 11's and pyrodex to regain his mojo..so all the power to yeah, got to do what is right for you.

Were you using bore butter with the T7? Wonder if that wasn't part of the problem?? I never have used it in my remmie and the guy I just referred to never complained about a cleaning problem just the misfires, etc that were the result of the Rem kit(also never used BB). Then both used the same Hornady 240 XTP Mag with sabot pushed by 100 grains. Just a thought!!

I agree while issues with some bolt flaws the 700 MLS has been a excellent performer in all aspects from my stand point.

The only use of Bore Butter is A-to coat the bore after cleaning to prevent rust (I do not like to use any petroleum-based products in a muzzleloader, although I do oil the interior of the bolt with CLP); and B- I use it as a anti-seize on the breech plug and nipple threads. Before I load the rifle I run at least two dry patches down the bore to remove the Bore Butter coating, so unless that tiny bit of left-over residue has caused my T7 woes, I would have to rest the blame squarely on the T7 itself.

I am confident that my hangfires with T7 were caused by that P.O.S. Remington conversion kit. Why the heck they created that 209 primer adapter with those slots cut in it that reduces the flow of hot gas into the breech plug is beyond me. One of the reasons I have loved my Remington with #11 caps is that the flame from a #11 has a lot shorter path to the powder charge than in most other muzzleloaders. Look at the breech plugs on a Knight or T/C bolt-action and compare. I have never had a problem with my Remington and #11 caps, except for the time I did not remove all the previously spent cap (that was my error). Under normal circumstances, using #11 caps and two, 50-grain Pyrodex pellets, the shot feels as instantaneous as any of my centerfires. That quickness of ignition is what (IMHO) makes the Remington so accurate. It doesn't matter if your barrels are first-class, the trigger is adjusted to 2-1/2 lbs with no creep or overtravel, etc., etc. If you have ANY delay between the cap/primer detonation and the ignition of the main charge, the results will show on paper as larger groups. And it will also show on game, which is worse than paper!

But, I will say that I wish Remington would re-work their bolt and/or breech plugs to make 209 primer use a lot easier than it is now. You would think it is their best interest to do so.

Brian

I bought a very early model 700ML. It was an accurate rifle but the blowback into the bolt, accompanied by the PIA procedure necessary to clean the bolt, prompted me to contact Remington about the problem. Their "response" was to state that all inline muzzleloaders have blowback.

Seemed a pretty uncaring as well as remarkarbly stupid thing to say to someone that owned their product. They were technically correct but ....... make your own analogies. I no longer own that rifle.

Still sorry I missed the 199 deal at Bass Pro.

Based on earlier posts I went ahead and ordered the conversion kit from Cabela's. I can't figure out how to install the new firing pin. I've unscrewed the original firing pin from the bolt assembly, however I can't figure out how to push back the hammer far enough to expose the firing pin. I currently have a dime in the slot which allowed me to unscrew the firing pin, but it looks like I'd need to pull the firing pin clog back much further to access the pin. How do you do this as it's under a lot of tension. Any help with this and further assembly is appreciated.

Cblainez71,

I haven't got a real good picture of what you are asking but here is what I am assuming.

You have the bolt separated into two parts, a) the bolt housing and b) the firing pin spring and rear shroud assembly.

You have pushed the orginal firing pin assembly back an have installed a dime in the slot to hold the bolt back so you can drive out the pin to allow you to unscrew the firing pin and spring.

You next install the new spring on the new hammer (firing pin) and screw that back in rear shroud until the hole in the hammer aligns with the hole in the shroud to allow you to re-install spring pin. Yes there will be some some tension encontered but by installing the round knurled tool that came with the kit you should be able to this. Once the pin is re-installed remove the dime from the slot and the hammer will move forward covering the pin and the slot in the shroud. Remove the knurled tool and reinstall assemble back into the bolt housing. Install the new nipple in the breech plug - put the bolt back into the rifle and all should be a GO.

I hope this helps - if not post again and we will get it worked out.

Good luck

Thanks Sabotloader. Actually, I've installed a dime in the slot to hold the bolt back, but this only holds it back approx. 1/4 inch. The pin that needs to be removed is still not exposed and I'm not sure how to push the original firing pin assembly back any further - there's a lot of tension.

Cblainez71,

Ok I think I have the picture now...

But let me asked, you do have the bolt in two pieces? you have separted the hammer. spring and rear shroud from the bolt housing? if yes - then

There should have been two tools supplied with the kit a knurled round cylinder type tool and a flat tool with a two progned fork on the end.

Place the knurled tool over the hammer and the spring and screw it to the shroud. Holding the knurled tool place the hammer on a solid surface and force compress the spring until the bolt housing is forced out of the shroud. You should see a groove on the bolt that the other tool will slide into and hold the spring compressed. Also the cross pin should now be exposed. Tap that pin out unscrew the old hammer and spring and replace all with the new parts provided. - then my other description should apply..