The only use of Bore Butter is A-to coat the bore after cleaning to prevent rust (I do not like to use any petroleum-based products in a muzzleloader, although I do oil the interior of the bolt with CLP); and B- I use it as a anti-seize on the breech plug and nipple threads. Before I load the rifle I run at least two dry patches down the bore to remove the Bore Butter coating, so unless that tiny bit of left-over residue has caused my T7 woes, I would have to rest the blame squarely on the T7 itself.

I am confident that my hangfires with T7 were caused by that P.O.S. Remington conversion kit. Why the heck they created that 209 primer adapter with those slots cut in it that reduces the flow of hot gas into the breech plug is beyond me. One of the reasons I have loved my Remington with #11 caps is that the flame from a #11 has a lot shorter path to the powder charge than in most other muzzleloaders. Look at the breech plugs on a Knight or T/C bolt-action and compare. I have never had a problem with my Remington and #11 caps, except for the time I did not remove all the previously spent cap (that was my error). Under normal circumstances, using #11 caps and two, 50-grain Pyrodex pellets, the shot feels as instantaneous as any of my centerfires. That quickness of ignition is what (IMHO) makes the Remington so accurate. It doesn't matter if your barrels are first-class, the trigger is adjusted to 2-1/2 lbs with no creep or overtravel, etc., etc. If you have ANY delay between the cap/primer detonation and the ignition of the main charge, the results will show on paper as larger groups. And it will also show on game, which is worse than paper!

But, I will say that I wish Remington would re-work their bolt and/or breech plugs to make 209 primer use a lot easier than it is now. You would think it is their best interest to do so.

Brian