Let's Build A Gun
09-25-2012, 04:16 PM
#1
Boone & Crockett
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Posts: 10,917
Let's Build A Gun
24 Sep 2015: Since Bronko mentioned the Swamp Dragon in a recent thread, I thought I would bring this forward for any new guys who might not have seen it.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
1. The Build
It all started with an idea that had been bouncing around in my head for several years - build a striker fired caplock rifle with under barrel drum and nipple ignition and the ability to switch barrels.
The gun in my head would look something like this.
A few months ago, determined to build the dream, I sat down and sketched out an initial plan for the action.
The original design was modified a bit here and there as the build progressed. But the main objective was adhered to. All of the work was accomplished with an assortment of hand tools, as well as a small bench top drill press and a bench top belt sander. It was a pretty interesting project.
The first issue was whether to cut out the breech block and then fit sideplates to the block (a logical approach), or cut out the sideplates and fit the block to the plates. Either approach would work. I had the metal for the sideplates on hand and was still looking for some three-quarter inch thick steel plate for the block. So the sideplates got done first.
2. Fabricating the Sideplates
The sideplates were cut from 1/8” thick steel plate. Here’s what was wanted
And here are the steps I followed.
3. Fabricating the Breech Block
OK, now it’s time to cut out the breech block. Here’s the target.
After scoring a nice piece of 3/4" thick steel plate, the work began with many many steps.
The barrel(s) will be secured to the block with a 5/16” socket head bolt, and the striker will be fabricated from a 3/8” bolt. Here are the provisions in the block for those two items.
4. Fabricating the Striker
I made a tactical error here. I used a Grade 8 bolt. That sucker was very hard and ate up several drill bits. I should have used a Grade 2 bolt and case hardened critical areas after the drilling and filing was done.
Anyway, here’s the target.
And here’s the build.
5. Fabricating the Trigger and Sear
Here are the parts.
And how they fit in the breech block.
The build itself wasn’t difficult. But it took a bit of thought and tinkering to get it right.
6. Installing a Scope Base
Eventually the gun will have provisions for using either a scope or a peep sight. The initial setup will be with a scope. The peep will come later. I really like DNZ one piece bases and bought one for this gun. Installation was probably the simplest part of the build.
7. Fabricating the Barrel Fittings.
I’ve had an old octagon barrel up in the rafters of my garage for a while. I bought it many years ago when two of the kids were still is diapers - and they’re married now with kids of their own. Where did the years go? Anyway, whatever project it was bought for never happened. I don’t even remember where I got from it or who made it. But a vague recollection says it’s either a Numrich or a Douglas.
The barrel is .54 caliber octagon, 1” across the flats, 33” long, and has a 1:64 rate of twist with eight lands and grooves of equal width. There’s moderate surface rust on the outside. But the bore is mirror bright - smoother and shinier than any of my Green Mountain barrels. It should be a fine round ball shooter and will be the gun’s first barrel.
The barrel needs a permanent breech plug with a threaded hole in its rear for the bolt that mounts it to the breech block. It also need a powder drum. Various styles of drums can be purchased from Track of the Wolf, but I made my own. An aluminum tube was used for a combination ramrod channel & forend hanger. A hex “coupling nut” was used for the front ramrod thimble.
Here are the particulars.
8. Fabricating the Stock and Forend
I won’t bore you with the details of cutting out and shaping the wood. It’s a pretty straight forward process except for drilling the hole in the buttstock for the stock bolt. I couldn’t find much on-line about how to do that, so figured out my own way. The process I used is posted in the HNI Black Powder Reference Forum.
Any number of shapes and dimensions are possible for the wood parts, depending on personal preferences. Here are the dimensions I used, pretty much following the lines of my Browning 1885 45-70.
9. It needs a Trigger Guard
There are dozens of styles of trigger guard to choose from. In fact, Track of the Wolf lists several hundred. I happen to really like the guard on my TC Renegade. Besides, I had one on hand. So that’s what I used.
Oh Happy Day!
All of the various parts are done. All that’s left to do is polish everything up and put it all together for the final time. I thought about bluing or browning the metal, but decided I really liked it in the white with a high polish.
10. Vanity raises it’s ugly head
Those flat polished side plates just begged for adornment. So I got out the fine tip Sharpie and did a little drawing. Took them to a local jeweler and asked for a quote on an engraving job. He looked it over a while and said $100 plus tax. I said DONE! He did a great job.
So gentlemen………. say hello to the
Swamp Dragon !
Yes, an in-line capper is necessary.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
1. The Build
It all started with an idea that had been bouncing around in my head for several years - build a striker fired caplock rifle with under barrel drum and nipple ignition and the ability to switch barrels.
The gun in my head would look something like this.
A few months ago, determined to build the dream, I sat down and sketched out an initial plan for the action.
The original design was modified a bit here and there as the build progressed. But the main objective was adhered to. All of the work was accomplished with an assortment of hand tools, as well as a small bench top drill press and a bench top belt sander. It was a pretty interesting project.
The first issue was whether to cut out the breech block and then fit sideplates to the block (a logical approach), or cut out the sideplates and fit the block to the plates. Either approach would work. I had the metal for the sideplates on hand and was still looking for some three-quarter inch thick steel plate for the block. So the sideplates got done first.
2. Fabricating the Sideplates
The sideplates were cut from 1/8” thick steel plate. Here’s what was wanted
And here are the steps I followed.
3. Fabricating the Breech Block
OK, now it’s time to cut out the breech block. Here’s the target.
After scoring a nice piece of 3/4" thick steel plate, the work began with many many steps.
The barrel(s) will be secured to the block with a 5/16” socket head bolt, and the striker will be fabricated from a 3/8” bolt. Here are the provisions in the block for those two items.
4. Fabricating the Striker
I made a tactical error here. I used a Grade 8 bolt. That sucker was very hard and ate up several drill bits. I should have used a Grade 2 bolt and case hardened critical areas after the drilling and filing was done.
Anyway, here’s the target.
And here’s the build.
5. Fabricating the Trigger and Sear
Here are the parts.
And how they fit in the breech block.
The build itself wasn’t difficult. But it took a bit of thought and tinkering to get it right.
6. Installing a Scope Base
Eventually the gun will have provisions for using either a scope or a peep sight. The initial setup will be with a scope. The peep will come later. I really like DNZ one piece bases and bought one for this gun. Installation was probably the simplest part of the build.
7. Fabricating the Barrel Fittings.
I’ve had an old octagon barrel up in the rafters of my garage for a while. I bought it many years ago when two of the kids were still is diapers - and they’re married now with kids of their own. Where did the years go? Anyway, whatever project it was bought for never happened. I don’t even remember where I got from it or who made it. But a vague recollection says it’s either a Numrich or a Douglas.
The barrel is .54 caliber octagon, 1” across the flats, 33” long, and has a 1:64 rate of twist with eight lands and grooves of equal width. There’s moderate surface rust on the outside. But the bore is mirror bright - smoother and shinier than any of my Green Mountain barrels. It should be a fine round ball shooter and will be the gun’s first barrel.
The barrel needs a permanent breech plug with a threaded hole in its rear for the bolt that mounts it to the breech block. It also need a powder drum. Various styles of drums can be purchased from Track of the Wolf, but I made my own. An aluminum tube was used for a combination ramrod channel & forend hanger. A hex “coupling nut” was used for the front ramrod thimble.
Here are the particulars.
8. Fabricating the Stock and Forend
I won’t bore you with the details of cutting out and shaping the wood. It’s a pretty straight forward process except for drilling the hole in the buttstock for the stock bolt. I couldn’t find much on-line about how to do that, so figured out my own way. The process I used is posted in the HNI Black Powder Reference Forum.
Any number of shapes and dimensions are possible for the wood parts, depending on personal preferences. Here are the dimensions I used, pretty much following the lines of my Browning 1885 45-70.
9. It needs a Trigger Guard
There are dozens of styles of trigger guard to choose from. In fact, Track of the Wolf lists several hundred. I happen to really like the guard on my TC Renegade. Besides, I had one on hand. So that’s what I used.
Oh Happy Day!
All of the various parts are done. All that’s left to do is polish everything up and put it all together for the final time. I thought about bluing or browning the metal, but decided I really liked it in the white with a high polish.
10. Vanity raises it’s ugly head
Those flat polished side plates just begged for adornment. So I got out the fine tip Sharpie and did a little drawing. Took them to a local jeweler and asked for a quote on an engraving job. He looked it over a while and said $100 plus tax. I said DONE! He did a great job.
So gentlemen………. say hello to the
Swamp Dragon !
Yes, an in-line capper is necessary.
Last edited by Semisane; 09-24-2015 at 06:22 AM.
09-25-2012, 04:45 PM
#4
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,745
That was a very long but excellent read. The rifle looks fantastic. I can't wait to see the first range report. All the time and sweat you put into it was well worth it. Congratulations Semi - job well done.
09-25-2012, 05:11 PM
#7
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
Very interesting read. I don't have the skills to pull something like that off. Changing a light bulb is about all I try to do mechanical if possible. Very nice looking rifle. I can't wait for the range report.
09-25-2012, 05:15 PM
#8
Typical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 861
WOW. I have been looking forward to seeing this since you started and I have to say that is beyond impressive to me. My wife said that was very nice as well. So I guess the only thing left before this hits the market is some testers. 
