New to black powder
01-22-2009, 12:22 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ohio,mid
Posts: 1,275
RE: New to black powder
nutzy, you can get good Traditions rock locks brand new for under $300. I was looking at the PA Pellet gun. You could use Pellet or loose and it had a 1:48 twist. That means you can shoot sabots conicals and round ball. Sonme of the used or older flinters have a different twist which migt not let you use anythoing more than round ball. If hunting PA you can shoot about any bullet. I just started this year and I will see if I can difg up the list of 'need t ohave' caygad sent me. Extensive but need not a want. That is for later. Ican say this , I am almost over my CF guns. I have an inline Pro Hunter and this flinter. I am saving for a Sharps 45/70 now. I had fun w/ CF, but this flint lock will make it more fun and makes you a better hunter. You don't have all the capabilities that a CF has,you hunt better! Good Luck and I will send that list if I can dig it out!
01-22-2009, 12:32 PM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ohio,mid
Posts: 1,275
Found it!
Found it, it helped me and again I started this year. Had no lone but Dave and some guys here and another site that offered advice. Check the lyman site they have guns listed on sale sometimes where you can save $100-150 bucks and only ave a nick maybe in the wood.
The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align][/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel. [/align][/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.[/align][/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel. [/align][/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge. [/align][/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.[/align][/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]
The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align][/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel. [/align][/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.[/align][/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel. [/align][/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge. [/align][/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.[/align][/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]
01-22-2009, 12:49 PM
#13
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: New to black powder
ORIGINAL: RobertSubnet
HUH???!!! Is that a bad digestive reaction to Cherios?
Nutzy:
Flintlocks are a lot of fun, it is the only type of muzz I shoot. But as was mentioned above, there is a learning curve. If you can find someone to show you how to use them, especially flint maintenance (known as "knapping"), you will have a much easier time.
Some other things: unlike other muzzleloaders, flintlocks only shoot real black powder, so make sure you have a source for it. If you cannot get it locally, you may need to order it. I and others here have ordered from Powder, inc and have had good luck with them:
http://http://www.powderinc.com/
You will need 2 different powder granulations: 4F in the pan and 2 or 3F down the pipe. DO NOT use 4F as your main propellant. The finer grain 4F powder builds up pressure much faster than the coarser 2/3F and is not safe to use as a propellant.
A 1lb can of 4F will last a LONG time
You will need to practice quite a lot to build up your accuracy and confidence, but that is the fun part. Expect a lot of stares and questions at the range.
Hope this was of some help.
~Robert
asserioes
Nutzy:
Flintlocks are a lot of fun, it is the only type of muzz I shoot. But as was mentioned above, there is a learning curve. If you can find someone to show you how to use them, especially flint maintenance (known as "knapping"), you will have a much easier time.
Some other things: unlike other muzzleloaders, flintlocks only shoot real black powder, so make sure you have a source for it. If you cannot get it locally, you may need to order it. I and others here have ordered from Powder, inc and have had good luck with them:
http://http://www.powderinc.com/
You will need 2 different powder granulations: 4F in the pan and 2 or 3F down the pipe. DO NOT use 4F as your main propellant. The finer grain 4F powder builds up pressure much faster than the coarser 2/3F and is not safe to use as a propellant.
A 1lb can of 4F will last a LONG time
You will need to practice quite a lot to build up your accuracy and confidence, but that is the fun part. Expect a lot of stares and questions at the range.
Hope this was of some help.
~Robert
01-22-2009, 12:51 PM
#14
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: New to black powder
ORIGINAL: bronko22000
Nutzy - fellow PA guy here. To be honest, you can get a top of the line flinter on the used gun rack. You can pick up a Thompson Center Hawken for no more than $250 at most gun shops around my area and if you can find one, a T/C Renegade for about $200. In fact I know a shop that has 3 Hawkens on the used racks. If I were you I would buy a $6 CVA bore light and take withyou to the gun shops. Check the bores for rust and or pitting. Then check the lock and triggers for operation. What I've found is that you will either get a real nice one that has been cared for or you may find one that was neglected due to ignorance with black powder use and corrosiveness.(that's why you need the bore light).
Nutzy - fellow PA guy here. To be honest, you can get a top of the line flinter on the used gun rack. You can pick up a Thompson Center Hawken for no more than $250 at most gun shops around my area and if you can find one, a T/C Renegade for about $200. In fact I know a shop that has 3 Hawkens on the used racks. If I were you I would buy a $6 CVA bore light and take withyou to the gun shops. Check the bores for rust and or pitting. Then check the lock and triggers for operation. What I've found is that you will either get a real nice one that has been cared for or you may find one that was neglected due to ignorance with black powder use and corrosiveness.(that's why you need the bore light).
01-22-2009, 01:26 PM
#15
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: New to black powder
ORIGINAL: Semisane
Though 4F is generally recommended for pan powder, it'snot an absolute necessity. I've been using 3F in both the pan and the bore with great success.
You will need 2 different powder granulations: 4F in the pan and 2 or 3F down the pipe.
01-22-2009, 01:30 PM
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: New to black powder
ORIGINAL: Buck Hunter 1
I am almost over my CF guns. I have an inline Pro Hunter and this flinter. I am saving for a Sharps 45/70 now.
I am almost over my CF guns. I have an inline Pro Hunter and this flinter. I am saving for a Sharps 45/70 now.
01-22-2009, 01:32 PM
#17
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: New to black powder
ORIGINAL: sproulman
HUH???!!! Is that a bad digestive reaction to Cherios?
you know, i always have trouble spelling that word,i still use 1 finger too type.
HUH???!!! Is that a bad digestive reaction to Cherios?
you know, i always have trouble spelling that word,i still use 1 finger too type.
Chap
01-22-2009, 01:41 PM
#18
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: Found it!
ORIGINAL: Buck Hunter 1
Found it, it helped me and again I started this year. Had no lone but Dave and some guys here and another site that offered advice. Check the lyman site they have guns listed on sale sometimes where you can save $100-150 bucks and only ave a nick maybe in the wood.
The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align]
[/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.
[/align]
[/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge.
[/align]
[/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.
[/align]
[/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..
[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]
Found it, it helped me and again I started this year. Had no lone but Dave and some guys here and another site that offered advice. Check the lyman site they have guns listed on sale sometimes where you can save $100-150 bucks and only ave a nick maybe in the wood.
The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align]
[/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.
[/align]
[/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge.
[/align]
[/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.
[/align]
[/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..
[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]
http://www.easternsportshow.com/App/homepage.cfm?moduleid=1867&appname=100280
Don't go on a weekend go on a week day in the Am. Chap
01-22-2009, 04:31 PM
#19
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: Found it!
ORIGINAL: gleason.chapman
Great Advice. I saw the reference to RMC Sports, every year they are at the Harrisburg outdoor show, and they always have bags of 500 patches, and all the little things you need for FLing. Go to the show and pick them up there. 500 patchs 2" were $9 last year. Great people also.
http://www.easternsportshow.com/App/homepage.cfm?moduleid=1867&appname=100280
Don't go on a weekend go on a week day in the Am. Chap
ORIGINAL: Buck Hunter 1
Found it, it helped me and again I started this year. Had no lone but Dave and some guys here and another site that offered advice. Check the lyman site they have guns listed on sale sometimes where you can save $100-150 bucks and only ave a nick maybe in the wood.
The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align]
[/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.
[/align]
[/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge.
[/align]
[/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.
[/align]
[/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..
[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]
Found it, it helped me and again I started this year. Had no lone but Dave and some guys here and another site that offered advice. Check the lyman site they have guns listed on sale sometimes where you can save $100-150 bucks and only ave a nick maybe in the wood.
The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align]
[/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.
[/align]
[/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge.
[/align]
[/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.
[/align]
[/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..
[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]
http://www.easternsportshow.com/App/homepage.cfm?moduleid=1867&appname=100280
Don't go on a weekend go on a week day in the Am. Chap
whats nice, i had v-peep that rightnour makes and i wanted the hole bigger, he drilled it out for me at no cost.
they have a nice store there too and gun building is in same building.
01-22-2009, 04:39 PM
#20
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: Found it!
ORIGINAL: gleason.chapman
Great Advice. I saw the reference to RMC Sports, every year they are at the Harrisburg outdoor show, and they always have bags of 500 patches, and all the little things you need for FLing. Go to the show and pick them up there. 500 patchs 2" were $9 last year. Great people also.
http://www.easternsportshow.com/App/homepage.cfm?moduleid=1867&appname=100280
Don't go on a weekend go on a week day in the Am. Chap
ORIGINAL: Buck Hunter 1
Found it, it helped me and again I started this year. Had no lone but Dave and some guys here and another site that offered advice. Check the lyman site they have guns listed on sale sometimes where you can save $100-150 bucks and only ave a nick maybe in the wood.
The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align]
[/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.
[/align]
[/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge.
[/align]
[/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.
[/align]
[/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..
[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]
Found it, it helped me and again I started this year. Had no lone but Dave and some guys here and another site that offered advice. Check the lyman site they have guns listed on sale sometimes where you can save $100-150 bucks and only ave a nick maybe in the wood.
The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align]
[/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.
[/align]
[/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel.
[/align]
[/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge.
[/align]
[/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.
[/align]
[/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..
[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]
http://www.easternsportshow.com/App/homepage.cfm?moduleid=1867&appname=100280
Don't go on a weekend go on a week day in the Am. Chap
bass pro prices are awful too.
i used to go into there and now i see like 2 or 3 people in their.
my friend makes turkey calls here in my town.
he is not going because he says price to set up is too expensive .
then motel etc.
just was not making anything worth while to go.
i do miss going but its a 100 dollar to go, we just dont have it to throw away in this economy.
i lost 150,000 on paper in my 401k so far in this wall street crooks.
all my friends have lost same or MORE ,most are worried about their jobs.......