Found it, it helped me and again I started this year. Had no lone but Dave and some guys here and another site that offered advice. Check the lyman site they have guns listed on sale sometimes where you can save $100-150 bucks and only ave a nick maybe in the wood.

The Lyman deerstalker and Trade rifle are on sale and w/in $60 bucks all in, of the PA Pellet rifle. All three are good rifles. I own a Lyman .54 caliber Trade Rifle and I own a Tradition's Woodsman Hawkins .50 caliber. Both have the 1-48 twist. Both shoot roundball very well. Both have very fast locks. They Lyman might be a touch faster in the lock but you would never know the difference. Of the three, I like the Trade Rifle but that is because of the larger caliber. Also you can stick a Lyman peep sight on the Trade Rifle if you want to shoot long range.
[/align]2. Is the Lyman products that much superior to Traditions? I would not say they are superior. Both are good guns. Actually if it comes down to service, you might be better off with a Traditions. All Lyman parts come from Italy. The one time I needed thimble rib screws for the Trade Rifle (they fell out) I called the company and had to wait three weeks until they got a shipment of parts come in. Now granted they did not charge me. But still I waited. The Traditons customer service has been good, but I would not get a model that might be discontinued. As I own a Traditions Pioneer and the stock cracked. When I complained to Traditions they told me it was a discontinued model and they could not help me. They suggested I glue it. But Traditions normally does have a very good customer service and the PA Pellet has been around a long time.
[/align]3. What do I need to get going on Flint hunting, powder, I can shoot about any bullet out of it in PA, all the guns have the 1:48 twist, powder horns (I own Lanes tubes they are great), patches, lubes, tools, etc.? Well lets start with the basics. Some 5/8th Thomas Fuller black english flints, or some german agates. You better get a few of them. Some flints last 50 shots, some last ten. Also as you learn to knapp them, you will get better at it, and they will last longer. You need a pan flask. This small flask will drop 3 grams of powder into the pan and keeps it all dry. It is a must item as you will soon learn. A nipple/vent pick is nice, but you can use the end of a guitar string as well. Also fuzzy pipe cleaners work good as a starter channel vent pick. I am guessing you have powder measures, .490 roundball, patch material, patch lube (you can make your own), maybe some 240 grain Hornady XTP and sabots, a short starter, the right jags for loading and cleaning, a range rod, and get a RMC vent liner. They have a allen head and a slightly larger opening and will increase your lock time. Also a frizzen cover is handy and you can make your own cow knee if you like. Also make your own knapping tools out of nails.
[/align]4. Can I use the Windex/alcohol solution for cleaning like I did when I shot T7 in the Pro? Windex works just fine. Or you can use pure isopropyl alcohol. With the PA Pellet, the breech plug comes out, so you need some breech plug grease as well. Get a tube of Slick 50 One Grease at a auto supply store or Wal Mart. The stuff works great and will last you a life time for a few bucks. Also get some carborator cleaner at the auto supply store. It will help take the hard stuff out of the bore, and you can pull the lock and clean the back side of the lock if you have to with that stuff.
[/align]5. I can get a 54 in the Trade Rifle model, should I move in that direction as the money is about the same? If you want to hunt with a roundball, then without a doubt the .54 caliber is the better caliber. Mine shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and a .530 patched roundball with extreme accuracy. It also shoots a 405 grain Powerbelt real well with 80 grains of powder. If you want to stop semi trucks or other such large objects...
[/align][/align]When I get ready to shoot.. I degrease the barrel with alcohol on a patch and then dry patch the barrel. [/align][/align]I now put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent hole and push that into the breech. This will make sure that there is no fuse effect. It it held there by closing the frizzen on top of it.[/align][/align]Then I measure out my charge into a volume powder measure and dump that down the barrel. [/align][/align]I then take a strip of 100% cotton pillow tick materal I buy at Wal Mart at the fabric department. I have that lubed with moose milk. I set the ball on the strip of cloth and short start that into the barrel. I then cut the patch material away from the ball and finish seating the patch and ball onto the powder charge. [/align][/align]Now pull the fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the vent hole. This drags powder right to the edge of the hole.[/align][/align]Now with the frizzen open, use your pan flask and dump 3 grains of powder to the outside edge of the pan. And close the frizzen. Now it is just cock the rifle and fire..[/align]
[/align]After that is is a matter of learning to ignore the flash in the pan, hold steady while the rifle prime flashes and booms... It is a lot of fun. Anything else I can help you with, you just ask...
[/align]