To tell you the truth, I have figured out how to get "one ragged hole" at 100 yards with the Mustang. All I've gotta' do is shoot about 25 shots. I get one ragged hole - only problem is it's three and a half inches in diameter.

I guess I like 3 shot groups for a reason, when getting ready for hunting I shot the second or third shot wipe out wipeing so I know what the gun will do if I should happened to need that next shot.
When I do this, I use 3 three shot groups to mark the exact POI and group size. To be quite honest my Omega with 150 gr of RS and a 200gr Shock Wave is the only one that stays sub. one inch and it runs from 5/8 to 1 inch normally, and a tricky windy is all it takes to blow that. But most all the loads I use for hunting will stay under1.5 inches in good conditions. I find that often times the problem with a set up that wont group good is the scope if it has ever been dropped or banged, a very slight bend in the tube [invisable to the human eye] can cause horrible parrelax which will open the group right up some times to as much as 5 inches and I am talking about the top ofline of scopes the cheapos with serious parrelax to start with,well 3 inches is a good group with them.
3 inches is a good enough group to shoot at least 125 yds but I would check what it is doing beyond that on the range before shooting any further while hunting. Lee

Usinga scope, if I can't find a bullet/powder combination that shoots under 2" off a bench I move on to another bullet. Most bullets I have been able to find some combination that will do that. If I'm shooting open sights and get it to 2" I'm very happy. My reasoning is that when hunting there is a good chance I will not have an opportunity to get against a tree or other steady rest for a shot so I want the gun grouping as tight as possible so I'm the primary reason for any error. Then I practice as much as possible with out the rest.

As far as practice goes, I seldom practice with my CF's any more. I have hunting handloads that shoot very consistently for each of them and only need to verify sight in before hunting with them. I do all my practicing with my smokepoles while working up and testing loads, after all, practice is practice when it comes to form and trigger pull and target consentration. Also the muzzys are a lot more fun and it forces you to slow down and think about what your doing.

Semisane -

Like you I don't place much faith in groups of less than 5 shots. It just seems that my groups don't stop expanding 'till about that number of shots fired. I've thought there is probably a better way todetermine "honest" accuracyby using a formula to determine when enough shots have been taken. Maybe we shouldn't call a group a group until 2 shots have been fired wihtout expanding the previous pattern. So 3 shots inone hole would be a minimum required. That's pretty much why I end up taking 5 or 6 shots to make a "group".

As to how your groups stack up to other posts that are out there, I wouldn't worry too much about it. IMO the shooter is less than half the equation, maybe closer to 20%,when a scoped gun is double bagged on the bench. In the field, that changes to 80% shooter, 20% gun.

It is also difficult to compare results when a variety of twist rates and barrel qualities are involved. I'm convinced that most of the success I've enjoyed since going to a GM barrel is just that, the barrel.

Go put that 3 inch group on 150#'s of venison and celebrate your ability to execute when it matters.

Id say you're not just semisane, you're also at least semi-rational and semi-honest. My 10ML-II will shoot consistant 1.5" AVERAGE groups with AA XMR-5744, and 2" groups with VV N-110 and 250gr XTP or Shockwave/SST bullets. If they are ever larger than that, it's my fault, and I can usually call my shot as a flyer (which is a skill all riflemenshould learn to do). I've had it shoot several 1/2" or smaller groups too. When shooting for record, I shoot several groups and then average them. I also disregard or reshoot called flyers. I think that averaging gives a more realistic account of accuracy because flyers will happen, and it also de-emphasizes the occational one-hole group. A lot of guys shoot 10 groups, nine of which are fair to good (2-4") and one that is an excellent, tight <1/2" cloverleaf and then brag about their sub-MOA rifle.

It's like grade inflation for gun enthusiasts. Used to be a true sub-MOA hunting rifle was like a 4.0 student, rare and exceptional. But by calling a 3" average gun that shoots an occasional 1" group a sub-MOA rifle is like handing out "A"'s for "C" work, and then both become meaningless.

Mike

This is after I lead lapped my .73 cal round ball shooter with peep sights. Light wet wipe between shots.


I replaced the rear 'peep' with a flat rear.

The front is a post with a Globe.


With this combinatin, sighted dead on at 75yds..........it will shoot under 2"s............it would do better, if I could see better.

Those 550 grain balls hit hard!

Bruce,
No-BS

Don't know if you do, but if you don't try running a rag down the barrel after every shot.

Hey you guys shoot well, I just put a scope (Bushnell Trophy,3-9x40) on my T/C blackdiamond. I have it mounted. And iam shooting 240grain horaday xtp,triple7 powder 90 grains,with a 209 primmer. Where is a good starting point 25yards? and i want to be able to shoot out to 100yards. I dont understand what they mean by1/4 @100 yards, I have never messed with a scope, so iam really lost here. Can someone walk me through it where to start at?

yeah 25 yrds is a good place to start. Rember tht 1/4moa means that at a 110 yds you will move 1/4" so at 25 yrds you must multiply that by 8. If you are 1 inch right you must move that scope 8x4=32 clicks. remeber to be dead on at 25 will put you a little high at 100 depending on powder and grain of sabot.

Semisane

This is whatI would call an acceptable target for me and on most days i can do this.... It is not sub MOA - but I ken live with it