RustyOlRanger4x4

Ive had an old CVA sidelock sitting in the corner for years now and Ive never actually shot the gun(it was given to me by a relative since he diddent use it anymore) but ive never actually used one of these and dont know anyone who does, I have a inline that I use on occasion but thats about as close as I get. Theres a couple things I dont understand about the "traditional" muzzle loader like patches? I plan to shoot a lead roundball no perticular reason why just figured it would be a good start, but apparently I need a patch for these things? I wanna use loose powder I have some Triple 7 under the bed ill try out but my main concernis the patches for now. Whats the advantage of a lubed patch over a dry patch or is there one? Dosent a lubed patch wet the powder if it sits for awhile? I have some basic load tables to start with but any help in this area is greatly appriciated. I still have a bit of work to do on it, the hammer wont stay back and I was told by the previous owner that a piece of metal inside was chipped or something so I need to take it apart and check it out so it'll be a little while before I get to shoot it. Thanks!

cayugad

The lube on the patch is there for a couple reasons. It helps to make loading a lot easier. It keeps the fowling softer in the barrel and easier to remove or shoot over. And most important, the patch acts as a pressure seal of sorts. When you ignite the powder if the patch is not lubed, the heat from the ignition will burn it up. This will cause the pressures to slip past the ball and results in non consistent barrel pressures which will effect accuracy. Anyone that ever had a rifle that blew patches knows just what I am talking about.

Also when shooting Triple Se7en I like to put a bore button, wonder wad, felt wad, what ever you want to call it, between the powder and the patched ball. T-7 has a very high ignition temperature and is more prone to blowing patches. The wad will protect the patch and normally gives you better accuracy that way.

The lube will meet the powder charge, but if the lube is good, it stays for the most part on the patch. Some lubes in hot temperatures that will move off the patch is Crisco Shortening and some of the lanolin lubes.

Since you do not know the rifle well, start the load off with 70 grains until you are comfortable with the rifle. Also be sure to clean the rifle well before you shoot. Before yoiu shoot,pop a few #11 caps through the nipple to make sure it is clear and the fire channel is open. Then load as normal.

nchawkeye

Now that you mention "lubed" patches, I remember when I started in the '70s that the guys referred to themas "greased" patches...Through the years the name changed, but it means the same thing...Something else I have noticed, I was taught to put your grease in the palm of one hand and take a patch and work it into ONE side...Now I hear about guys using the microwave to soak their patches in the grease/lube...Funny how things change...

PA RIDGE RUNNER

You should also know what rate of twist your rifling has. If it is 1:48 or slower then a patched round ball should give good accuracy. If it has a faster rate of twist like 1;32 or 1;28 then the patched round ball will not work so well unless you greatly reduce the powder charge. The patched round ball (PRB) if shot through the faster twist will not grip the rifling and slip or as it is called strip down the barrel and will result in terrible accuracy. I agree with Cayugad on the wad under the bullet I got better accuracy in every rifle I tried it in.

Semisane

Damn OlRanger, can't you change that picture.

Can't hardly read your posts for the tears in my eyes!

RustyOlRanger4x4

I like my avatar I thought it was pretty funny! And thats for the info its appriciated!

eldeguello

The combined thickness of the patch (doubled, of course) plus the diameter of the ball should be about equal to the GROOVE diameter of your bore. If the patch/ball combinationexceeds thisdiameter, and you can still start the ball without deforming it in the process, accuracy should be acceptable (provided, of course, that the rifling twist is appropriate for a round ball and the powder charge is reasonable.) The patch material may compress somewhat on loading, and if it bites into the soft lead of the ball, so much the better. The patch has to grip the ball firmly to cause it to rotate on firing.

If you think of the patch as a "cloth sabot" it might be easier for a person with inline shooting experience to grasp what's going on here.