its that time of year again. another flintlock season has ended. and its time to redo the stock of the TC hawken flinter. the first time was when i bought it. it had a nasty clear coat on it that dried, flaked and looked plain nasty. i stripped it..sanded it good then put tru oil on it. the wood underneath that nasty factory finish was beautiful the wood looked good WET with truoil. heck..the first year it looked good. then i got the bright idea to hit it with more truoil last year to make it look better. noticed i didnt put enough coats on and the grain was open. let it dry and finished it and hit it with some wood conditioner following the directions through a birchwood casey kit i bought. now its nasty looking. its got a white tint to it. im pretty sure thats the conditioner. i think because i finished it in my basement it wasnt 100% dry and i should have known better..but i didnt.

anyways....can i strip off truoil with stripper and sand it?? i want to redo it..something rubbed on it this season on my bag or pockets and put some dents and scratches in it. also i want to try a diffrent finish. i was thinking about linseed or tung oil. i just want a nice oil finish to bring out the beauty of the wood. i either want it light or dark..when i got it it was a redish color..definently not the color of the wood...and not a color i personally like. tru oil isnt a bad look..just out of it and rather use something else...i rather not stain it and clear it. but i dont know much about linseed or tung oil..any recomendations?

also..what kinda wood am i working with? im pretty sure its walnut. mine actually looks like black walnut when its sandedand clean. but im not sure..just curious...

mauser: buy some funiture stripper and wet down the stock let sit and use 000 steel wool to remove the tru oil finish.I use the stripper and you will see the bubbles start to lift ,then go at it with the steel wool,once you have all the true-oil off the stock wash the stock with water and use a hair dryer to remove all the water and let sit for a while to dry.
I then use some 1500 wet and dry paper to wet the stock and sand with the grain,then redry .for deep dentswarm iron and damp cloth will raise them flush and resand smooth.I like to sharpen the edges were the lock sits and the other side when the lock bushing and screw goes threw,take your time and use a good sanding block don't sand with your finger tips .I then like to use FORMBY'S TUNG OIL SATIN FINISH.
I find trying to hold the stock and apply the finish is too risky don't want to drop the stock on the floor I use a 6 inch screw that goes threw the lock screw bushing and bolt up with a nut,lot better to handle,get a nice clean tee shirt cloth about 4 inch square and apply the tung oil with the grain.I start at the butt and work forward one side at a time,tung oil is easy to apply but you can't go over the oil too many times without it drying . I like going with one pass up to or just pass the lock then start from the tip and go to the spot on the lock.I then start the other side butt to lock and tip to lock then finish the underside of the stock.I run about 4 wet coats then use 0000 and rub the tung oil off back down to the grain between coats let dry before using the steel wool.I then reapply the tung oil in even wet coats from butt to tip I run about 15 coats which with every coats just builds up to a low stain finish