Thanks Cayugad. I figured it would have a tight fit. I am completely new to ML and taking it slow, learning as I go. This is a great site and thanks for all the knowledge you've shared so far.

I notice the rifle has two triggers. I've read that one is the "set" trigger but what exactly does that mean/do? I've tried the rear trigger which completely drops the hammer and then tried moving the hammer into the half cock and fully cocked positions before dropping it again completely. I notice that the set trigger clicks when I pull it after I've cocked the hammer but not sure what else it does or is supposed to do. Again, beginner questions but I'm taking this slow before I actually work up a load and fire at a target.

Here is a pic. I'm really pleased with it and hope it fires as accurately as much as it looks good. Pic doesn't really do it justice. Plus I got this rifle for a nice price. Cabelas honored the price from the week before, gave me another instore discount and let me use two promotional gift cards they mailed to me. I walked away with a $350 rifle for $210. Not bad.

The two triggers mean the rear trigger is your set trigger. After you cock the hammer, pull the back trigger first and it will make the front trigger a very light hair trigger as it takes all the tension off it. When hunting, if you use the set trigger be careful to not forget and lay your finger too heavy on the front trigger. More then one person sent their only shot into the woods that way.

Another thing to practice with an empty rifle is cocking the rifle without noise. Hold the front trigger back, and pull the hammer all the way back. Now release the front trigger and slowly let up on the hammer. It should stay in the cocked position and it made no noise while cocking. This is helpful when critters are real close and have suspected you might be around. Sometimes when they hear that hammer cock, they will bolt. This just gives you a little more edge.

When you swab the bore should you need to, remember never swab a dirty barrel with a clean patch. Always a DAMP (not soaking wet) patch first. Work that patch in short strokes of 3-4 inches. Working down the bore until you reach the bottom. This will help you make sure that the patch does not get stuck in the barrel. I swab with isopropyl alcohol only in my traditional rifles. If you ever do get a patch stuck, pour some of the alcohol down the barrel and the patch will normally come out with a little pulling. Then all you have to do is swab the alcohol out which is not such a bad job. It comes out easy, cleans the barrel, and will burn off as soon as you shoot the rifle again.

As always, thanks for the great advice cayugad. And I did have the triggers switched around in my post I noticed. This is good info. Any suggestions on additional reading for traditional muzzleloaders? The instruction manuals are great but I'd like to learn even more and hopefully this would aid me in asking more detailed question on this site. Thanks!

I have a book called Muzzleloading ... to begin with by Don Davis. It was my Black Powder go to book for many years. It does not deal with inline rifles. Probably because it was written before they were around. But he discusses traditional rifles and anything that might go wrong with them and how to fix it. I have NEVER saw the book offered for sale anywhere. It was a "gift" for joining the NMLRA years ago.

Other good sources are some of the black powder magazines, but I find a lot of them going to only inline discussions. And I have not renewed my subscription to them for years now. I am sure there are books out there. It is just a matter of finding them.

Anything you might want to know, just ask. The members of the forum are more then glad to answer. Believe me, the questions will start to form as you hit the range and shoot.