Strutter

The label says to use NO lube. Does this apply when shooting lead bullets with no sabot or anything? Seems that without some type of lube, there would be a greater chance of lead build up in the barrel due to increased friction as the bullet went down it. I got some TC maxiballs and removed all the lube but figured I would ask you guys before I shot them.

Also, is there anything I should do to this new gun before I shoot it other than clean it?Reason I ask is that I readwhere someone said to clean the barrel with a polish and brush to remove any filings or whatever from the factory and that this would improve the accuracy and longevity of the barrel.

Thanks for your help,
Rob

cayugad

Are you talking about the Black Diamond made by Thompson Center for the rifle you are worried about the barrel? If there are ruff sports in the bore (which I doubt) the shooting of the maxiball will knock that out of the barrel. Whether the barrel is smooth or not, it is very possible to get some lead build up in the barrel of your rifle. That is why you clean the bore with a brush and a solvent that removed lead.

As for the American Pioneer Powder their mention for not using lubes I believe applies more to people that bore butter the barrels or leave the oil in the barrel and then load. APP is known to react with that oil and make a sludge. I've shot APP and Pinnacle with conicals that were lubed and never experienced any problems. I will say that shooting conicals, was not attheir best with the APP or Pinnacle. These powders in my rifles seemed to like the smaller lighter conicals up to 300 grains. Your results will be interesting.

Use some solvent on a patch and swab the bore of your rifle clean. Then run a couple dry patches down the bore to make sure the barrel is dry. APP is said to be very moisture sensitive. I personally have not found that to be true, but some of the people who posted the facts, I learned a long time ago, not to doubt their word.

I would not remove the lube from the maxiball. The lube helps protect the lead conical from the heat of the powder ignition, and it assists the conical in expanding to capture the riflining in the bore spinning in a uniform manner and getting the most accuracy out of the projectile.

If the lube worries you, try putting a unlubed felt wad under the conical. Granted it will be distroyed by the ignition but we do not care about that. All the unlubed wad might do is absorb any lube trying to work its way to the powder charge. To make unlubed wads, get a 1/2 inch hollow hole punch and some construction felt and stamp out a bunch of them.

livbucks

I got a question about APP.
Can you prime a flinter with it?
What is the difference between regular
APP and APP Shockey's Gold, besides the
thump at the checkout register?

cayugad

I heard a claim you can prime a flinter with it and with Pinnacle. When I got my Pinnacle powder I tested it extensively. What I discovered is, you can shoot Pinnacle which is really so close to APP in consistency I feel, they should be called the same. I used it as a main charge and as a primer charge. And the company's claim that it will work in a flintlock is true. They just fail to tell you that it does not work all that well.

You're wasting you time if you think you are going to get fast ignition with APP or Pinnacle as a main charge and definitely as a primer charge. The hang fires, and misfires were terrible. The number of non fires at all lead me to believe this was not the way to go.

I will say, if you duplex the load, meaning, dump 10 grains of Goex down the barrel first then the APP or Pinnacle, and use Goex as a primer powder, you got a lot better results.This if course kind of defeats the purpose of using a clean powder in a rifle when you have to duplex with one of the worst powders for fowling.

With all the testing I did with a flinter and different powders I came to one conclusion. If you want to shoot a flinter, then shoot black powder. It is the one sure way you can be assured that you have a good chance of a fast lock time and faster ignition.

livbucks

I get really good results with 4f Goex to prime and 2f 777 as main
charge. I really have no reason to change then. I was just curious
because of the boistrous claims by APP on their packaging pertaining to it's use in flintlocks. Some people say that 777 is unreliable in flintlocks
but that has not been my experience. The only thing affecting lock time in my gun is quality of spark. As long as I keep the flint in good order and my frizzen clean, I have no problems...... CHIBOOM!
The part that really caught my eye was the claim that they shot the gun
hundreds of times for a month or so and NEVER swabbed once and the bore was clean as a whistle. Didn't even need taken down to clean up.
Just a swipe or two down the bore and put it away....get real!

cayugad

I tried Triple Se7en FFg as my main charge in my T/C Hawkins flintlock and unless I duplexed the load I had poor ignition even though I had excellent spark in the pan. That must be the difference between the two makes of rifles I would guess.

alleyyooper

I once used clear shot loose with good results in my T/C hawkins and plains rifle. About the time they finally settled the law suit over the pellet issue I bought what was labled AAP clear shot loose. Horriable resultswith that stuff in all my ML rifles. Picked up sabots with unburned powder in the bases from my 50's and 54. I was told they asorb lube & moisture and used a wad of dryer lint above the charge. Results were unburnt dryer lint in the sabot bases. I've since switched to triple 7 with good results of course none are flint locks.
AAP has got to prove they have improved their product with free samples to get me back as a buyer. To many other products to try before trying to use one that once failed.

Al

eldeguello

The makers claim you can, but I'd prime with real BP instead, and just use it as the main charge uplexed as explained by cayugad. I don't thik 10 grains or so of BP in the bore will leave too much fouling..