Triple Seven ?
#1
Triple Seven ?
Shot a doe this am with my Omega and I reloaded with a speed load hoping to get another shot. Will it be alright to wait till after Saturday's hunt to shoot the speed load out and clean the gun. I'm not worried about the speed load, just the corrosiveness of the triple seven.
#2
RE: Triple Seven ?
I contacted Hogdgon shortly after Triple 7 came out and wondered if, since it was so much "cleaner", you could go longer without cleaning the gun. I was told "no" - they said the corrosive elements are still there, but with a lot less soot and black stuff.
I have left a stainless in-line gun sit for thee days after shooting it with no ill effects. It's pretty dry out here, though, so it might not be a good idea in a humid climate.
I have left a stainless in-line gun sit for thee days after shooting it with no ill effects. It's pretty dry out here, though, so it might not be a good idea in a humid climate.
#3
RE: Triple Seven ?
Personally I'd dump the load out the breech, clean, oil, dry swab and then reload it in the am before you embark on the hunt. I know many who don't but I always error on the side of caution. The last thing I want to hear is snap when I am ML hunting!!! It has never happened to me but then again I take percautions to eliminate this occurance. I witnessed my hunting partner watch a booner mulie buck go loafing over the hill when his uncleaned ML went snap...he learned a valuable lesson that day!!!
I have also been called "anal" about keeping my stuff spic n span.
I have also been called "anal" about keeping my stuff spic n span.
#4
RE: Triple Seven ?
skeeter 7MM,
About the time you were writing your reply, I decided to dump the load out the breech and just push the sabot out. Let me say next time I will make sure I just shoot the load out. The sabot would not come out by simply pushing it. I guess it was stuck in that infamous 777 crud ring![:@] I then realised that I should attach my cleaning jag and a t handle to the ramrod to get more force. I begin pushing and I feel it move just a little, then I hear snap....I broke my t handle leaving a nasty looking scrape on my chest. After tossing the broken t handle out across the driveway and a few choice words I went to plan B! I wound up having to use a block of wood on top of the ramrod and I lightly tapped the sabot out with a hammer.Those durn sabots are definately tight, especially after shooting.
About the time you were writing your reply, I decided to dump the load out the breech and just push the sabot out. Let me say next time I will make sure I just shoot the load out. The sabot would not come out by simply pushing it. I guess it was stuck in that infamous 777 crud ring![:@] I then realised that I should attach my cleaning jag and a t handle to the ramrod to get more force. I begin pushing and I feel it move just a little, then I hear snap....I broke my t handle leaving a nasty looking scrape on my chest. After tossing the broken t handle out across the driveway and a few choice words I went to plan B! I wound up having to use a block of wood on top of the ramrod and I lightly tapped the sabot out with a hammer.Those durn sabots are definately tight, especially after shooting.
#5
RE: Triple Seven ?
So wait a minute, you shouldn't wait to cleanthe boreafter shooting or you shouldn't leave a load in the gun for three days or whatever it is? I shoot Pyrodex Pellets and plan to load up on opening morning and leave the load in the gun until I shoot, whether it be a deer during the weekend or to empty it at the end of the 1st season. If I leave the gun in the truck when I'm not hunting (avoid condensation from temperature changes), is it "safe" to leave the pellets in the gun for 3 days?
#6
RE: Triple Seven ?
While it is safe to leave the rifle with the pellets and projectile in the truck for the whole season, consider this... ever get into your truck in the morning when the windows were up and notice that the inside of the windows are frosted or wet with humidity? Now consider that same thing in your rifle barrel. Humidity is the enemy of black powder.
The one reason I unload my rifle every night is I had two bad experiences with leaving them loaded. I followed all the guide lines, put them on cloth muzzle end down, left them in the same temperature as I hunted with them, all that. And when it came to crunch time, the primer/cap went off and there was no crunch.
Then again, I have friends that do just what your talking about. They take the primer off their rifle, put them in a case, and leave them in the truck the whole season and never had a problem with the rifle going off.
One thing to do before you store it overnight in the truck, take a rag with a little oil on it. And wipe the moisture off the outside of the rifle and prints off it. It will keep it from rusting on the outside.
The one reason I unload my rifle every night is I had two bad experiences with leaving them loaded. I followed all the guide lines, put them on cloth muzzle end down, left them in the same temperature as I hunted with them, all that. And when it came to crunch time, the primer/cap went off and there was no crunch.
Then again, I have friends that do just what your talking about. They take the primer off their rifle, put them in a case, and leave them in the truck the whole season and never had a problem with the rifle going off.
One thing to do before you store it overnight in the truck, take a rag with a little oil on it. And wipe the moisture off the outside of the rifle and prints off it. It will keep it from rusting on the outside.
#7
RE: Triple Seven ?
Iwas concerned with the corrosiveness of the burned 777 I had shot earlier in the day. I normally shoot the load out after hunting for the day but I forgot to on this particular occasion. I was not concerned with the speed load itself. To answer your question I, normally never go longer than 2 or 3 days without shooting during our early muzzleloading season so I keep my loads until I shoot. The only reasons I would dump a load would be if I hunted on a rainy day or for the reasons mentioned above.
#8
RE: Triple Seven ?
ORIGINAL: cayugad
One thing to do before you store it overnight in the truck, take a rag with a little oil on it. And wipe the moisture off the outside of the rifle and prints off it. It will keep it from rusting on the outside.
One thing to do before you store it overnight in the truck, take a rag with a little oil on it. And wipe the moisture off the outside of the rifle and prints off it. It will keep it from rusting on the outside.
#9
RE: Triple Seven ?
I would either safely discharge or remove the load and detail clean the rifle.
I detail clean at the end of each day when the rifle has been fired. Even only once. I've rifles over 35 years old and the bore's look like new today.
Good Luck!
I detail clean at the end of each day when the rifle has been fired. Even only once. I've rifles over 35 years old and the bore's look like new today.
Good Luck!
#10
RE: Triple Seven ?
Again, I shoot the rifle off at the end of the day whether I used the rifle or not. That is just my habit and from past experiences, found I have better luck (andless worries that the rifle will fire.. man I hate that)starting each day off with a clean fresh load in the rifle. If all you have fired is one round out of the rifle it will not be all that bad to clean anyway. If you push the round out of the breech and it has not been fired, clean up should be rather simple I would guess. A few solvent patches. And then oil it.
A person did a test on another forum about rusting barrels. He took a barrel, degreased it, oiled it down, then put different kinds of powder on the surface of the steel and ignited them. He also put similar powders unfired on the same steel but did not ignite them as a test base. What he found was the worst of all powders for rusting was Pyrodex. It started turning white the very next day. Goex was not as bad. It lasted a little longer. Unfortunately he did not test Triple Se7en or APP. A shame really, he let the test run for a couple week. The conclusion of the test is, with any powder if not ignited, they did not cause rust. If ignited, they did start the corrosion process but at different speeds according to powders.
Stainless steel barrels will still rust, just not as fast. They stain less but still stain. I have stainless steel barrels. If I shoot it that day, I clean it that day. And yes, if you are going to store the stainless steel barrel, like a blue barrel, take a light oil cloth and wipe the water and finger marks off the outside of the rifle. That way you have eliminated any possibility of giving corrosion a foot hold there.
If you have not fired the rifle and wish to leave it loaded, find a safe place to store it where the temperatures will stay constant, about the same as the weather it had been subjected too all day. I have a unheated woodworking shop that I use. In fact, I am going to test a rifle this season and store it all season long out there, loaded.
We do not want to warm that barrel up and subject it to any kind of condensation process. I know one person that even runs a light oil patch down the barrel to the projectile before he turns the rifle upside down and stores it resting on a cloth (to catch the oil and any condensation) muzzle end down. He removed the 209 primer and discards it. He never uses that primer again. I made the mistake of reusing the primer once, and the rifle did not fire.I suspect the primer was the cause.
With it stored muzzle end down, I always put a red handkerchief through the trigger guard. This warns everyone that the rifle is dangerous and loaded. I also tell anyone that might come into contact with the rifle, it is loaded and tell them about the meaning of the red handkerchief.
The next morning all you do is put a new primer on the rifle (swab thebarrel clean with a dry patch if youoiled the bore) and then sit on your stand and worry all day whether the rifle is going to go off or not.
A person did a test on another forum about rusting barrels. He took a barrel, degreased it, oiled it down, then put different kinds of powder on the surface of the steel and ignited them. He also put similar powders unfired on the same steel but did not ignite them as a test base. What he found was the worst of all powders for rusting was Pyrodex. It started turning white the very next day. Goex was not as bad. It lasted a little longer. Unfortunately he did not test Triple Se7en or APP. A shame really, he let the test run for a couple week. The conclusion of the test is, with any powder if not ignited, they did not cause rust. If ignited, they did start the corrosion process but at different speeds according to powders.
I have the stainless steel barrel, does that still hold true with what you said above? meaning to wipe them down?
If you have not fired the rifle and wish to leave it loaded, find a safe place to store it where the temperatures will stay constant, about the same as the weather it had been subjected too all day. I have a unheated woodworking shop that I use. In fact, I am going to test a rifle this season and store it all season long out there, loaded.
We do not want to warm that barrel up and subject it to any kind of condensation process. I know one person that even runs a light oil patch down the barrel to the projectile before he turns the rifle upside down and stores it resting on a cloth (to catch the oil and any condensation) muzzle end down. He removed the 209 primer and discards it. He never uses that primer again. I made the mistake of reusing the primer once, and the rifle did not fire.I suspect the primer was the cause.
With it stored muzzle end down, I always put a red handkerchief through the trigger guard. This warns everyone that the rifle is dangerous and loaded. I also tell anyone that might come into contact with the rifle, it is loaded and tell them about the meaning of the red handkerchief.
The next morning all you do is put a new primer on the rifle (swab thebarrel clean with a dry patch if youoiled the bore) and then sit on your stand and worry all day whether the rifle is going to go off or not.