driftrider

I took my Knight DISC .50 out to the range today and put 25 shots through it. Overall, I'm impressed with the gun, but I've noticed a peculiar accuracy issue that I can't seem to resolve. It seems that one of every three shots or so is a flyer that hits 1-3 inches outside the rest of the group. This is really frustrating when I follow the same loading proceedure every time and the rest of the other two shot holes are touching dead in the 1" center square.

Another guy at the range told me his MK85 didn't start shooting consistant groups until he had almost two pounds of black powder through it (he doesn't shoot substitutes).

Has anyone else experienced this same tendency? and has it gone away as the rifle is shot in?

The most accurate load seems to be 100gr Triple 7 3Fg, PR QT .40 235grain bullet, and Winchester 209 primers. When I reload I spit patch, and then dry patch before I reload. The bullet is carefully seated in the sabot and aligned with the bore and seated on the powder with as consistant a pressure as possible.

Thanks,

Mike


Gun control means putting the second bullet through the same hole as the first- Ted Nugent
NRA Member
Muzzleloading- Once you go black, you'll never go back!!

lonewolf5347

mike:I shoot the qt's 40 in 235 grain with 110 grains of pyrodex select@ a no#11 cci mag cap groups 3 shots at the 100 in a 3/4 hole.when I was shooting the powerbelts always would pick up a flyer in a 3 shot group.I do compress my load with consistant pressure.what you can also try is pyrodex select and see how the gun shoots it may not like the triple 777.

Mark whiz

Mike,

While a lot of people believe that no break-in is required for muzzleloaders, my experience tends to make me disagree. My Knight USAK got where it shot pretty good groups (around 2&quot once I figured out what loads it liked. But it wasn't until I spent a day shooting patched round balls out of it that it really became a "tack driver". Now clover-leafed holes are the name of the game.

This makes since too if you think about it. All barrels tend to have rough spots and edges when new. Usually, regular shooting will bring these spots down to acceptable levels - but that is when using metallic bullets. When shooting plastic sabots, it is the sabots that take the abuse from the rifling and not vice-versa. Shooting round ball or regular conicals puts metal to metal back into the equation and helps with the break-in.

An alternative to RB or conical shooting would be to work the barrel with some Flitz or J-Bs bore paste to smooth the rough/high spots. Personally I prefer using the round balls as it is probably easier on the bore, plus..............shooting Round Ball is just plain FUN!



"Every moving thing that liveth, I give unto you as meat" (Gen 9:3)

Trust God..........but keep your powder dry!

driftrider

Took it out again today and shot 15 more shots through it. The groups are starting to settle down to about 1.5-2.5 inches at 100 yards with the occasional one being smaller. I collected up some spent sabots and found 2 of 15 had two petals broken off. I find this a little bothersome. The rest were nicely opened but intact. The accuracy couldn't be too badly effected since the wildest flyer was about 4" out of the group. I'm starting to wonder if I'm just being too darn picky.

I tried it out to 150 yards and put a 3 shot group into a perfect 3" equilateral triangle about 4 inches below point-of-aim for a 100 yard zero.

Mike


Gun control means putting the second bullet through the same hole as the first- Ted Nugent
NRA Member
Muzzleloading- Once you go black, you'll never go back!!